crank pully bolt

We may earn a small commission from affiliate links and paid advertisements. Terms

R

rookscr

New Member
any tips on getting off that lower bolt holding the main pully on? i broke 2 breaker bars and bent my tire iron. any advice at all would be very helpful. trying to do a timing belt and balance shaft belt. thanks guys
 
tried to different shops with impacts. i live in a small town. the car has 280,000 miles the guy i got it from bought it with 80,000 and never did a timing belt. thats all i want to do. is it possible to do it without taking off that pully?
 
I would want to know what the two shops used? Impact guns vary considerably in maximum output torque. A decent 1/2" drive gun is capable of 800+ ft. lbs. of torque. A mediocre 1/2" gun will produce ~350 ft. lbs. of torque. A good 3/4" drive gun will be capable of ~1000-1400 or more ft. lbs. That's much more than you will be able to apply manually using extensions and such.

Application of a penetrating oil may help. Liquid Wrench or similar.
 
Last edited:
Dual-500 said:
I would want to know what the two shops used? Impact guns vary considerably in maximum output torque. A decent 1/2" drive gun is capable of 800+ ft. lbs. of torque. A mediocre 1/2" gun will produce ~350 ft. lbs. of torque. A good 3/4" drive gun will be capable of ~1000-1400 or more ft. lbs. That's much more than you will be able to apply manually using extensions and such.

Application of a penetrating oil may help. Liquid Wrench or similar.
Click to expand...



i used liguid wrench. alot of it. haha the first gun was just a craftsman but the second one was a nice IR. no one around here even has a 3/4 impact. closest semi shop is about an hour away.
 
What engine is it you are working on?

Seeing the tools broken and failed attempts, I would make the drive. Have them knock it loose and retighten to a sane level of torque. A large enough gun will instantly spin that bolt loose.

The money lost in broken tools is unfortunate. Application of high amounts of torque using extensions (cheater bars) are recommended by some, not by me. It's just too dangerous.

For the tough jobs, I use a 3/4" drive gun with a 3/4" to 1/2" adaptor on it so I can use 1/2" drive impact sockets.:

Impact%20Gun.JPG
 
Last edited:
If you can only go to those shops you went to before, have them throw it on the lift so you can jam the flywheel and get a breaker bar with a big ass cheater bar on it to break it loose.

However, if the bolt is that fucking tight, you run the risk of damaging your flywheel.
 
B16RacerN2NR said:
If you can only go to those shops you went to before, have them throw it on the lift so you can jam the flywheel and get a breaker bar with a big ass cheater bar on it to break it loose.

However, if the bolt is that fucking tight, you run the risk of damaging your flywheel.
Click to expand...

the pully doesent spin. thats not the problem i got the motor locked up with chain vicegrips. does anyone one know if i can change the timing belt with that pully on? i think id rather drive it till it blows then drive an hour one way just to see if they can get it loose. im thinking with a 6 foot pipe welded to a 19mm socket is more torque then any impact. i snaped 2 half inch sockets and twisted a deepwell half inch impact socket.
 
rookscr said:
the pully doesent spin. thats not the problem i got the motor locked up with chain vicegrips. does anyone one know if i can change the timing belt with that pully on? i think id rather drive it till it blows then drive an hour one way just to see if they can get it loose. im thinking with a 6 foot pipe welded to a 19mm socket is more torque then any impact. i snaped 2 half inch sockets and twisted a deepwell half inch impact socket.
Click to expand...
How good are you at math? A 6' bar to get 1400 ft lbs.assuming the force is applied near the end puts it a 5.5'. 1400/5.5 = 254 lbs. of pressure. That's not even the point.

Do you mean 1/2" DRIVE sockets?

It will probably break loose ~750 ft lbs. The right gun will break it loose as soon as the trigger is depressed. Far less risk of damage or injury.

Good luck with it. :)
 
wikedeye said:
If the lower timing cover is on the car then you need to remove the pulley.
Click to expand...
:werd:

Find a diesel or heavy machine(tractors, etc) shop; they usually have something big enough to break it loose. Just have them break it loose, tighten it hand-tight with a ratchet, drive it home and work on it yourself.
 
rookscr said:
so i can break out the lower timing cover and do it?
Click to expand...
What car and engine is it?

Probably yes. I would do it with an xacto saw cutting it near the crankshaft. Then, clean it good, and goop it up with RTV when reinstalling it and call it a day.

But rather than that, take it to somebody with a real impact gun and have them break it loose for you.
 
Last edited:
For fucks sake, instead of hacking shit to pieces and ruining the possibility of the car running reliably after the job is done, just get the damn tool suggested and do it right the first time.
 
its a 95 accord ex. sohc v-tech. the car was 200 bucks. money is too tight to drive that far and im sure wont do it for free.
 
Okay, the value of the car doesn't change a whole lot.

You could spend the $25 for the tool and do the belt, then you'll have a $200 car that will continue to run, not snap a timing belt and possibly cause other damage. If that happens you'll have to do the belt and fix anything else that breaks, which sounds cheaper to you?

Also, if money is tight then why are you discussing an h22 swap? lol
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top