Supercharged high comp lsvtec help

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BaDarkus91lsvtec

BaDarkus91lsvtec

New Member
So I have about 11-1 and I want to supercharge my motor. Bad idea or should I go for it. I want that extra u know. I have a nice strong bottom end but don't want to waste all that money just to blow it up. I haven't finished my motor yet so don't know exactly how much comp I have but pistons r rated at 11-1. I can always go with a low comp piston I guess but the bottom end is done and been waiting for about half a year to get this damn thing done.
 
you are talking about a jackson racing supercharger? it should work well with 11:1, just dont push the boost beyond 7-8 psi, and it will need good tuning of course. i have done a lot of research on jrsc builds in the past, and the higher compression builds make good power. and, if you have access to e85 it would be even better, and safer. not saying that 93 octane wouldnt be safe, it will just need a good tuner.
 
I agree. Good set up but must rely on a good tune. A bad tune will be....bad news. Back in the day, guys were not able to safely run high comp forced inducted builds but tuning has come a long way in the last 12-15 years.
 
Couple months old I see. How is the build coming along?

I just dropped in because I saw supercharger. Superchargers actually work best with 11:1-11.5:1 CR. However I would NOT run E85, E85 just plain sucks and shouldn't even be sold.
 
VPT said:
Couple months old I see. How is the build coming along?

I just dropped in because I saw supercharger. Superchargers actually work best with 11:1-11.5:1 CR. However I would NOT run E85, E85 just plain sucks and shouldn't even be sold.
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Haven't we already been down this road?
 
Its coming along good except I can't get it to start. Tried everything to get spark and still nothing. Wiring new dizzy, dizzy off a running car. Idk what to do. #1 cylinder sensor. Been working on that issue for over a week
 
Check grounds.

Confirm ECU is good. What ECU is in it?

Is it showing any CEL codes?
 
Grounds r good. I had a 1.5 harness and hommie converted everything to work with my lsvtec set up. Got the resistor and injectors wired up. I have the pr3 spoon ecu and came out of running car. Obd0 vtec. Also obd0 vtec dizzy. It got spark for bout half a sec and went back to just turning without spark. Shooting a code 9.
 
CYP Sensor (Cylinder) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor
* invalid code for throttle body injection Hondas


Probably doesn't have fuel or spark. I would suspect wires swapped on the sensor loop. Could be an open, but my first choice would be they are swapped. CYP as I recall, is the main indexing signal for the ECU - without it, NADA.


Get a wiring schematic and trace the runs from distributor to the ECU.


What you need will look something like this: (example only)

Distributor%20OBD1%202.JPG
 
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K so I got it running. Turns out the dizzy was bad. Now I have a problem with really bad vibration from the driver side front. I think it's the axel but not sure. It only vibrates when I slow down or turn right. If I push the clutch in its not near as bad but u can still feel it. Any diagnoses would be great
 
Axel bearing or axel itself, one of the CV joints, or worse case the tranny bearings - not likely but I lost a set of diff bearings once in my L3 after some jerkoff "rebuilt" it.

Most likely culprit, because of suymptoms you described, is the wheel bearing. They are pressed into the hubs as I recall. Man I don't remember, maybe not, too senile. :D Not that big a deal to change. Getting the axel nut off is probably the worst of it. If one's bad, change both as the other won't last much longer. You may need a puller to ram the axel stubs from the splines on the hubs. I always grease the one's on mine when I assemble it so maintenance is easyl

You may need a breaker bar and cheater extension to break the nuts loose. If you have access to a good size pneumatic gun it makes the work much easier. Don't hammer on the axel stubs go push them back from the hubs - use a 3 jaw gear puller or you could phuk up the threads. Pull the brake rotors first. Use zip ties to hang the brake calipers to the front springs to keep strain off of the hydraulic brake lines. Use anti-sieze for everything when you re-assemble, grease the splines.

Impact guns make all that work much easier - even just using a 14mm socket to pull the brake calipers. Oh, also you should re-assemble using a torque wrench. You should be able to do the whole job, both sides in an afternoon - it's not that bad. Do you have a floor jack and jack stands and such?

I vote wheel bearing first because it manifests more with side load applied. Axels would be more power on and power off type stuff.
 
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Awesome info I'm getting right to that tomorrow. Good thing I have another car sitting here that I can use with all the same stuff basically.
 
Going into this work, I don't know what you have for tools. I've had the front end on my '91 hatchback torn down ~5 or 6 times and it's pretty easy now.

Oh yeah, another thing I did is go by the dealer and pick up the castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints. They are many times in shitty condition and should be replaced. Also, pick up a pack of assorted size cotter pins to replace them too.

You may also want to replace brake pads while it's apart.

Overall, the Honda's are not bad to work on. FYI - they have real nice wiring in them if you ever need to mess with that.
 
Yeah I love workig on these cars. I can take the front end apart in like 30 mins. I have a lot of tools. Not very tool I need but enough to get by. I took the hub off another 91 I have and it's too short so that's not gonna work. The axel binds against the inside. I'll get this thing 100% eventually
 
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