REALLY PISSED!!! please help.

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INJEN78

HS LEGEND
alright so i changed my gauge cluster,and climate control lights out for #74 red leds,well the leds i got SUCK!!! they were not bright,but they work until i can get legit leds.well im halfway to school and smell something wierd,look down,no cluster lights,no climate lights,and the buttons over the cluster(hazard,auxilery,cruise) the lights dont work either...
i checked the fuse and it looks good,maybe i checked the wrong one,i put the original bulbs back in and still nothing.what else could be wrong??
is there an inline fuse or something? i have taillights and plate lights(those were on the instrument light fuse as well)
 
I'd start by making sure that you pulled the correct fuse. I don't remember the tail lights and plate lights being on the same fuse as the instrument cluster lights.

LED's are typically lower resistance than the original bulbs, so it is possible that the change in resistance was enough to increase the current a decent amount and cause a fuse to blow.

Everything looked good behind the cluster when you pulled it out to put the original bulbs back in?

Edit: Also, do these cars have two fuse boxes like my Civic? If so, you need to check the one in the interior and the one in the engine bay. I think there is something related to interior lights in the engine bay fuse box.
 
I'd start by making sure that you pulled the correct fuse. I don't remember the tail lights and plate lights being on the same fuse as the instrument cluster lights.

LED's are typically lower resistance than the original bulbs, so it is possible that the change in resistance was enough to increase the current a decent amount and cause a fuse to blow.

Everything looked good behind the cluster when you pulled it out to put the original bulbs back in?

Edit: Also, do these cars have two fuse boxes like my Civic? If so, you need to check the one in the interior and the one in the engine bay. I think there is something related to interior lights in the engine bay fuse box.
yes it has 2 fuse boxes,del sol's are wierd with fuses, the instrument lights are with taillights and plate lights,im going to recheck everything today.
Check your interior light dimmer. I have seen them burn up before.
this is what ive heard on some other forums.i have no idea how to check if its good or bad,again del sol's being wierd have the dimmer built into the cluster.
 
What year and trim level is your sol? I can look it up in prodemand for you and try and post the test procedure for you.
 
alright well i went out and checked all the fuses and stuff..im pretty sure my dimmer switch is fried.i looked up some stuff about them and how to bypass them..on the switch harness there are black,red black/red wires..when i jump the black and red wire together i get lights to the climate control...but our dimmer switches have 3 wires coming out of the dimmer and going to the actual gauge cluster,i dont know which of these wires does what so i cant really jump them to see if it works...but anyway,im 95% sure my dimmer is doneski.
 
I was never overly impressed with the ol' LEDs-in-the-cluster trick honestly. I did that to a bunch of my old cars and I never really though that the light output was that great. Unless you're actually building a custom cluster that can take full advantage of LED's lighting characteristics then I say stick with colored bulbs.

With that said, where did you get your LEDs? I always bought from this place: LED Lights, Bulbs & Accessories - SUPER BRIGHT LEDS. Their stuff seemed to be pretty decent quality...
 
i got them from a small unknown company,and i regret it. im going to be buying leds from superbright soon,theyre quality has really improved. a bunch of guys on teamsolcal have had alot of success with their new stuff.
 
look under his name.. 93 SI

I had a derp moment during a long day.


Here is the test procedure for your dimmer switch

DIMMER SWITCH CIRCUIT

1) Turn ignition off. Carefully pry dimmer switch from dashboard. Dashlight brightness controller is built into dimmer switch assembly. Unplug dimmer switch 3-pin connector and inspect connector and switch terminals for damage or corrosion. Repair or replace as necessary.

2) With headlight switch on or off, use a DVOM to check for continuity between dimmer switch 3-pin connector Black wire and ground. If continuity exists, go to next step. If no continuity exists, repair open Black wire or poor ground connection G201 located in right front corner of engine compartment. Also check ground connector G401, located behind left kick panel.

3) With headlight switch on, use a DVOM to check for battery voltage between dimmer switch 3-pin connector Red/Black wire and ground. If battery voltage exists, go to next step. If battery voltage does not exist, replace blown underdash fuse No. 19 (10-amp), faulty headlight switch or repair open Red/Black wire.

4) With headlight switch on, use a jumper wire to ground dimmer switch 3-pin connector Red wire. If dashlights come on, dimmer switch circuits are okay. Replace dimmer switch. If dashlights do not come on, repair open Red/Black wire or Red wire for dimmer switch 3-pin connector.
 
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