LS or GSR

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Tait72

Member
Need to decide on Gsr or Ls bottom end.
I have a GSR crank as well as an Ls both have been balanced.
I have both blocks ls and gsr as well as a ls vtec kit for the ls.
Manley Rods for the gsr crank and stock rods with ARP's for the ls.
Both blocks need to be bored to 81.5 to be straight again.
Trying to decide whether to just order p30 for the ls rods. Or is there a benefit from using the Manley rods on the gsr crank and order pistons for them. So far I'm leaning toward the stock pistons $140, vs $500 for forged. But are stock rods tough enough with the ARP's? I have all winter to get it together and just want to get started.
Any advice or experience you guys have had with either would help a lot. Oh and its a DD that I like to take to test and tune 2x a month.
 
Best of both worlds, ls crank and rods in gsr block.

If your going to keep stock rods then you do not want to spend the money on forged pistons. Stock rods with ARP bolts ls crank and rods in gsr block.
 
Best of both worlds, ls crank and rods in gsr block.

If your going to keep stock rods then you do not want to spend the money on forged pistons. Stock rods with ARP bolts ls crank and rods in gsr block.


this is acutally well worth it in the end if you can afford to have the machine work done for the clearance issues.. basically you will be making a gsr stroker.. put that with a built gsr head and you can be for some good numbers.

i might be wrong but that is what i have heard. pls correct me if i am wrong.
 
Ok just wasn't sure if I'd be called crazy not to use the stronger rods.
 
I have the squiter delete kit for the gsr so I don't think there are any clearance issues? Not sure if I will be able to use the block girdle with the Ls crank? Haven't looked that up yet.
 
dont beleive you can.. i think you would still have small clearance issue. always best to take to your machinest and have him double check.
 
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