B20 w/LS auto - won't shif out of park

[civicjason]

The car is a 97 Civic LX that had a d16y7 with automatic and now has a rywire obd2a-obd1 harness along with the obd1 p75 auto ecu with the matching tcm/tcu with an LS automatic and a B20 p8r engine. The car will start and idles but won't shift out of park. Is the park release in the ecu, tcm/tcu or is that a separate connection (or something else)?

Thanks,
Jason


Make that shift in the title...that's been driving me nuts every time I see and I can't edit it.

 

[porkfried83]

Sounds like the lock up control solenoid valve. Do you hear a click when you step on the brake? No the park release is not in the ecu. Is your check engine light on?

 

[civicious]

Shoot me a PM to remind me if I forget, but I'll get you wiring diagrams, pinouts, and pinpoint tests for you to diagnose the problem when I get to my shop in the morning. I'd look 'em up now, but I'm pretty lit, so I'm not in the mood to think.

 

[civicjason]

Sounds like the lock up control solenoid valve. Do you hear a click when you step on the brake? No the park release is not in the ecu. Is your check engine light on?

No engine lights.
I'm not sure about the click. Car is at the shop so I'll have to find out tomorrow.

 

[civicjason]

Shoot me a PM to remind me if I forget, but I'll get you wiring diagrams, pinouts, and pinpoint tests for you to diagnose the problem when I get to my shop in the morning. I'd look 'em up now, but I'm pretty lit, so I'm not in the mood to think.

A wiring diagram would be awesome...thanks.

New problems I've found out about. The car will bog when taking off sort of like it's stuck in 2nd gear and lacking in power...oh and will sometimes go dead and need to be restarted.

Thanks for the info all.

 

[civicious]

Wait, so now it's coming out of park?

Do you have some sort of aftermarket tune?

 

[|Chaz|]

Well the first problem is that it's automatic... just kidding.

But if Wil (Civicous) can't tell you whats wrong with it, no one will.

Wish you were a bit closer to me Wil. I'd bring all my stuff to your shop to get worked on, yes EVEN my lawnmower haha.

 

[porkfried83]

I'v had this problem b4, on a 99 vw jetta! And it was the lock-up control solenoid valve, but for the other problem could be several things.

 

[civicjason]

Wait, so now it's coming out of park?

Do you have some sort of aftermarket tune?

Only with the key in the park release that's by the shifter.

No aftermarket tune just a rywire obd2a to obd1 jumper harness but I may need tuner but the only way the shop told me they have ever did it was with a boomslang (??) and harness that separated the ecu and tcm into a adds another computer .

 

[civicjason]

Well the first problem is that it's automatic... just kidding.

I've never heard that before

But if Wil (Civicous) can't tell you whats wrong with it, no one will.

Wish you were a bit closer to me Wil. I'd bring all my stuff to your shop to get worked on, yes EVEN my lawnmower haha

Hopefully the problem lies in the harness but since it's converted to obd1 could it possibly be a sensor that's obd2 instead of obd1?

 

[civicjason]

Shoot me a PM to remind me if I forget, but I'll get you wiring diagrams, pinouts, and pinpoint tests for you to diagnose the problem when I get to my shop in the morning. I'd look 'em up now, but I'm pretty lit, so I'm not in the mood to think.

I must be too much of a noob here to send you a PM because I don't see the option.

 

[porkfried83]

Just click on there name I think

 

[civicious]

Post this information for me, regardless of whether you've said it already.

1. What engine do you have, what year/make/model vehicle is it out of, and where did you purchase it?

2. What transmission do you have, what year/make model vehicle is it out of, and where did you purchase it?

3. What ENGINE harness do you have (the harness that actually attaches to the engine itself)

4. What vehicle is the ECU you have out of, and what is the part number on the ECU?

5. Which RyWire OBD2-OBD1 harness do you have? Please provide the part number if necessary.

6. On separate lines, list every individual complaint:
a.
b.
c.
d.
etc



Please make your next response ONLY the answers to these questions, with no extra information provided, and nothing else in the post. Your answer should look something like this:

1. B20 from a 1997 Honda CRV FWD Automatic that I purchased from a junkyard
2. Transmission from a 1997 Acura Integra LS automatic that I purchased from a junkyard
3. etc.
6. a. Vehicle will start and idle, but will not shift out of park
b. Vehicle will ALWAYS or SOMETIMES bog when taking off from a dead stop
c. Battery drains when the vehicle sits overnight
d. etc.

Post your reply in as comprehensible and readable of a format as you're capable of, and I will proceed with attempting to help you diagnose the problem.

 

[civicjason]

Post this information for me, regardless of whether you've said it already.

1. What engine do you have, what year/make/model vehicle is it out of, and where did you purchase it?

2. What transmission do you have, what year/make model vehicle is it out of, and where did you purchase it?

3. What ENGINE harness do you have (the harness that actually attaches to the engine itself)

4. What vehicle is the ECU you have out of, and what is the part number on the ECU?

5. Which RyWire OBD2-OBD1 harness do you have? Please provide the part number if necessary.

6. On separate lines, list every individual complaint:
a.
b.
c.
d.
etc



Please make your next response ONLY the answers to these questions, with no extra information provided, and nothing else in the post. Your answer should look something like this:


Post your reply in as comprehensible and readable of a format as you're capable of, and I will proceed with attempting to help you diagnose the problem.

1. Engine is a JDM B20B purchased from hmotorsonline.com
2. obd1 94/95 Integra LS automatic purchased from hmotorsonline.com.
3. 97 Civic LX automatic engine harness.
4. 95 Integra LS automatic part number ECU: 37820-P75-A51 831-106391 (TCM or TCU: 28100-P78-A01 130791210207)
5. Automatic OBD2a to OBD1 Rywire : Automatic OBD2a to OBD1 - $250.00

6.
a. Won't come out of park without using the key relsease near the shifter.
b. poor acceleration like it's taking off in 2nd gear.
c. surging idle
d. stalls and dies

 

[|Chaz|]

Love it when newbs follow instructions!

 

[civicjason]

Love it when newbs follow instructions!

I tried to make it look like his example I suppose I've added too much...see if I fixed it a little. I do think the tcm is worth mentioning still though and since the transmission and engine came from hmotorsonline I don't have exact info on what vehicle those came from and the ecu/tcm came from ebay and other people I can only go on their part numbers to tell what cars they came from (rywire's info shows Integra LS w/auto though).

 

[civicjason]

Well rywire finally responded and said my harness was plug and play and didn't need instructions, I wish they would have told me this a week ago .

The stuck in park thing is fixed but I don't know what the fix was but I'll hopefully find out.

The shop that has my car says my other problems will probably go away once I add the rest of my exhaust because it's open header now. After reading about open headers and o2 sensors I understand this now. Now I'm wondering if I shouldn't disconnect my o2 sensor until I make it to an exhaust shop.

 

[civicious]

Whew, just got back from the holiday.

An unplugged O2 sensor shouldn't cause surging at idle or stalling, neither will running open header. I can walk out into my shop and unplug every single O2 sensor on every single car, and unbolt the exhausts as well, and not a single one of 'em will surge or stall. You should not let a shop that tells you that work on your car...

Why is your car there anyways??


For the shifting thing (although you've apparently got this taken care of), it shouldn't be anything that you messed with that caused that issue (key word 'shouldn't). Next time it doesn't shift out of park, first get out and make sure your brake lights are working - if they aren't, then you most likely need to replace your brake light switch. If the brake lights ARE working, you need to check this:

Make sure it's clicking when you step on the brake pedal. If it isn't, remove the connector and check for power and ground with the brake pedal depressed with a DVOM.


Now, as far as the other problems, it sounds to ME like you've got either a vacuum leak or a fuel delivery problem. It could be a few other things, but I'm saying this assuming you didn't fuck anything up or misinstall anything when you put the motor in. Check fuel pressure at the rail AND before the fuel filter, and do a smoke test on the intake system to see if there's anything leaking. You can also spray down the engine/intake with brake clean (make sure it's flammable, a lot of places sell non-flammable brake clean and that WILL NOT work) and see if the idle raises or if you hear a 'whoosh' type sound - if you get either of these when you spray the brake clean in a particular area, that indicates that you've got a vacuum leak there.

Did YOU install the motor yourself, or did the shop that it's at install it? And again, why is it at a shop - especially one that's telling you that running open header can cause surging/stalling/rough running?

Actually, what shop is it at? I'm kinda curious now, haha

 

[civicjason]

I may be misunderstanding what he was telling me a bit but he told me that I needed to get an exhaust before he could diagnose the problem properly. I have read that an O2 sensor running with an open header can get cool outside air and will run really rich due to it. Is this not true?

I would prefer not to throw the shops name around online because I'm getting information from him second hand and I may not be doing justice to what he's telling me. I think it'd be best to wait and see the finished car then let people know.

Whew, just got back from the holiday.

An unplugged O2 sensor shouldn't cause surging at idle or stalling, neither will running open header. I can walk out into my shop and unplug every single O2 sensor on every single car, and unbolt the exhausts as well, and not a single one of 'em will surge or stall. You should not let a shop that tells you that work on your car...

Why is your car there anyways??


For the shifting thing (although you've apparently got this taken care of), it shouldn't be anything that you messed with that caused that issue (key word 'shouldn't). Next time it doesn't shift out of park, first get out and make sure your brake lights are working - if they aren't, then you most likely need to replace your brake light switch. If the brake lights ARE working, you need to check this:

Make sure it's clicking when you step on the brake pedal. If it isn't, remove the connector and check for power and ground with the brake pedal depressed with a DVOM.


Now, as far as the other problems, it sounds to ME like you've got either a vacuum leak or a fuel delivery problem. It could be a few other things, but I'm saying this assuming you didn't fuck anything up or misinstall anything when you put the motor in. Check fuel pressure at the rail AND before the fuel filter, and do a smoke test on the intake system to see if there's anything leaking. You can also spray down the engine/intake with brake clean (make sure it's flammable, a lot of places sell non-flammable brake clean and that WILL NOT work) and see if the idle raises or if you hear a 'whoosh' type sound - if you get either of these when you spray the brake clean in a particular area, that indicates that you've got a vacuum leak there.

Did YOU install the motor yourself, or did the shop that it's at install it? And again, why is it at a shop - especially one that's telling you that running open header can cause surging/stalling/rough running?

Actually, what shop is it at? I'm kinda curious now, haha

 

[civicjason]

Update and not so good IMO...

The car shifts out of park because he has the brake lock triggered so you don't have to push the brake any more.

I drove the car 30 miles open header to get an exhaust but I won't get to drive it till tomorrow. It did act like it was loading up on fuel pretty bad and bogging but the O2 was connected and it was cold outside...I'm concerned here but I guess it'll be better diagnosed with an exhaust like he said.

As of now I'm wondering why I took it to him also but when I spoke to him about this swap I was under the belief he had done this type of swap before. I'm still holding out hope he will make it right for me without charging me any more