Need a little help... 97 Integra - Code 0 - ECU

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SlushboxTeggy

It's only stupid if it doesn't work
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1997 Integra. Auto. Driving home on Monday, car started missing really bad. Then the CEL popped up. Pulled over. Checked to make sure all the plug wires were secure. Had a paper clip, so I jumped it. Solid CEL. Didn't blink, didn't go off, just stayed lit. Looked at the codes list and assume that it is Code 0 - ECU. I nursed it home as I was almost there.

So question, I'm in the process of resetting the ECU as we speak. Is this a wasted effort? Is the ECU toast? Could anything besides a fried ECU throw this code (that I'm assuming is zero)? Or should I just go get a new ECU?
 
Exactly what I used. For Integra related knowledge, no other site is better.

Doesn't answer any of my queries though...
 
Reset the ECU. Started it up to let it run. Ran a little rough, started to seem to work itself out, then a CEL popped up again. Jumped it, 71 and 72. Random misfires. OK, not 0 anymore.

Hadn't changed the cap in forever so I figured I'd do that. Pulled it off and the rotor was tore up. I've had an issue before with the rotor getting chewed up to the point of a misfire. Kept replacing the rotor rather than the distributor, which I pretty much knew to be the real problem. I'd say nearly getting stranded roadside is a sign to buck up and spring for a new one already. My friend at Autozone thought so too. Should be in tomorrow.
 
OK, I need some help here.

Replaced the distributor. Frankly, it was needed. Not sure how the old one even kept the car running. Well, reset the ECU again for good measure and viola, still getting a random misfire. Only 72 this time, but I didn't let it run very long after the CEL popped up.

What's my course of action here? I know it could still be a lot of stuff, but where should I start? Car has about 198K on it.
 
Did you check all the plugs themselves just to see? Is it getting plenty of fuel? Is the timing correct?
 
Did you check all the plugs themselves just to see? Is it getting plenty of fuel? Is the timing correct?
I changed the spark plugs Wednesday hoping for a cheap fix. Honestly, they weren't even bad. But for $10, I'd rather put the new ones in then replace them.

Spark- I'm imagining that it was getting a sporadic spark with the broken parts. With the new distributor it should be good, but I'm going to check anyway.

Fuel- No clue. I've always used good fuel, fuel system cleaners, and I change the filter about every two years. Again, I'll check them, but I doubt it.

Timing- Unless the belt jumped the gears I don't see how it could be off. And it's a new belt as of last summer. Ran fine for months so I'd doubt the tensioner wasn't tight enough. Again, I'll check just to be sure.

Wish I had a garage, I could check all this now. Unfortunately I barely got the distributor in before it got dark.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but a clogged cat or a bad O2 sensor would throw a different code correct? What about a vacuum leak?
 
Vacuum leaks can cause all sorts of wonky issues. I don't think it'd be an O2 sensor since they usually have their own CELs that they throw.
 
Vacuum leaks can cause all sorts of wonky issues. I don't think it'd be an O2 sensor since they usually have their own CELs that they throw.
 
Does it run any different in Neutral vs Park ?
Is it affected at idle, when you pump the brakes ?

When it comes to fuel flow, it's injected - So the filters and pumps are just part of the equation. There are idler jets and acceleration jets (I call them that, I dunno what others call them)
 
Does it run any different in Neutral vs Park ?
Is it affected at idle, when you pump the brakes ?
I'll check that out first thing tomorrow. Working every Saturday is really starting to get old.

When it comes to fuel flow, it's injected - So the filters and pumps are just part of the equation. There are idler jets and acceleration jets (I call them that, I dunno what others call them)
Good point.

So tomorrow I'll check spark, then fuel, then try those different things out. I imagine that if I let it run, I'll get misfires on all the cylinders and not just the one, but I guess we'll have to wait and see.
 
Ok bud, i had the exact same issue in the white integra.. Fuel was good, spark was good, timing was spot on... But the car had 185k on the block... So i did a compression check... 180-185-120-180... It was enough to throw a misfire code even tho technically there wasn't one...
 
Could be that ^ he has 198k on it...
 
Ok bud, i had the exact same issue in the white integra.. Fuel was good, spark was good, timing was spot on... But the car had 185k on the block... So i did a compression check... 180-185-120-180... It was enough to throw a misfire code even tho technically there wasn't one...
How did you handle it?
 
Haha, fair enough. Didn't look at it today. My family has an extra car at the moment, so I've been rocking my dad's 95 Grand Cherokee. Maybe I'll have AAA tow it to work and let one of my friends in the back look at it.
 
pretty easy to check compression dude... autozone rents out the compression testers... should take you 15 min..
 
Ugh.


Slow your roll and start back at the beginning.

1997 Integra auto with a check engine light and a misfire, correct?

Take an OBD2 code reader and look at the freeze frame data that will be stored with the code, and come back with that along with the P-code.
 
Ugh.


Slow your roll and start back at the beginning.

1997 Integra auto with a check engine light and a misfire, correct?

Take an OBD2 code reader and look at the freeze frame data that will be stored with the code, and come back with that along with the P-code.
Sounds good. I work until 8p tonight, but I'm off tomorrow. Looks like I know what I'm doing first thing. Thanks in advance for the help.
 
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