b20 block posting

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drey

New Member
hello guys im running high compression on my b20 block 12.8 to 13s comp should you suggest posting my block for extra strength and safety?:)
 
I'd atleast do ARP head studs and 12.8 to 13 comp with stock head? what is done to the motor to make it 12.8? we kind of need more details till we can answer ya question better
 
I'd atleast do ARP head studs and 12.8 to 13 comp with stock head? what is done to the motor to make it 12.8? we kind of need more details till we can answer ya question better

ok mate heres my set up:
b20 block on Gsr head actually i have 2 options gsr head or b16a head?

cp carillo piston 11.8 to 12.8 compression ill post the piston..
skunk 2 titanium retainers and springs
skunk pro 2 cams
skunk manifold
74mm skunk throttle
arp head studs
eagle rods
 

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can you give me your opinion regarding the head im having concerns of hitting a valve because the piston is too pointy..
 
The b20 blocks are fine for all motor as long as the setup is tuned properly. The problems start when boost is applied, the thin oem sleeves are a weak point with the increased cyl pressures of forced induction. I cracked sleeves in my b20vtec setup with stock sleeves bored to 84.5mm. Everything was fine for years with a low boost supercharger setup (which is more pressure than your all motor setup will put on things), but when I went turbo and started making more serious power it couldn't handle it. Plenty people making over 200whp with all motor setups and have no problems with the bottom end. ARP head studs, aftermarket pistons and rods, new bearings, and a good tune... no worries.
 
Posting? Not worth the risk of distorting your bores at that power level.
 
Thoughts I would have:

1) balanced crank, good rod, crank and head bolts (like ARP)

2) new rod and main bearings (I like OEM)

3) correct head gasket and conversion done for the Frankenstein.

4)you already have pistons and cams.....clay the motor so you can see if your piston to valve clearance is sufficient.

5) get it running and have it dyno tuned with a decent socketed ECU (I like Hondata)
 
Thoughts I would have:

1) balanced crank, good rod, crank and head bolts (like ARP)

2) new rod and main bearings (I like OEM)

3) correct head gasket and conversion done for the Frankenstein.

4)you already have pistons and cams.....clay the motor so you can see if your piston to valve clearance is sufficient.

5) get it running and have it dyno tuned with a decent socketed ECU (I like Hondata)


I like OEM bearings im also a fan of


What I used in my build set up on my H22A a while back, motor was sold and the kid that owns it recently dyno'd at 400whp with out issues... But the barrings went in so well and fit like a glove. I would 110% agree with Hondata as well... S300 if you can afford it
 
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