1996 Integra Build (B18B1)

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HMO sells JDM 92-95 H22 motor/trans/ecu (200hp) for $2200. If your set up is in good running condition, I think the price is fair.

I have a hard time not telling you to keep it and swap it into your Integra instead. Oops...I just told you. H2B and rippin' 12's on and ECU, tune and slicks

I figure you'll get someone wanting just the motor or trans (probably motor).
 
If I hadn't invested as much in my b18b1 I'd seriously consider it. One of my favorite integra builds is H2b boosted, but like I've said this is the first project but definitely not the last. However the k20z has me seriously thinking about a K series build next. Or J swap for the frankenstein look and to challenge myself with the fab work.

All that said I'm currently salivating over Rx7 FDs... so far out of my price range as a 19 year old kid but SO COOL.

I sourced a GSR transmission that needs synchros from a buddy of mine for 250$ and I found out my best friend (RSX guy)'s dad is pretty good at rebuilding honda transmissions so I'm super excited about that. I know the LS transmission leaves a lot of power on the table if you're not running really high psi (and especially N/A, which it might stay for up to another year)

ALSO: Whats a good wheel setup for performance/handling? I'm getting tired of low and slow. The stage 4 cams that I want suggest a specific size tire diameter and I'm guessing I should just roll with that, my rotas are 15x8 can I keep those or is another size "more optimal"?
 
15x7's and 205/50 are the way to go IMO guessing a 205 on an 8 would stretch it too much. finding 215's would be togh. 225/45's maybe, but rubbing?

really, it's more about the tire. if you're going to hit a ton of power, you're going to need something sticky like a drag radial or toyo r888 up front or you'll just spin 5 gears
 
@Briansol I have a set of LS meshs with really nice tires.... I wonder if I should just clean them up and put them on there for the moment. Obvs get a set of slicks for the track eventually
 
This kid can get a fd, they go for sale for under 10k all the time, at 19 my mod budget consisted of cone filters and self tapping screws and zip ties and no muffler with the hood off
 
So, just curious why would I want the 404s over turbo cams? I was talking to a friend that explained a lot of stuff I didn't completely comprehend but it made sense. He said that turbo cams spool the turbo faster because of something to do with pressure in the cylinders and how it gets let out

This is where I have next to no idea about anything haha
 
A variety of NA stg2 cams have been known to get serious gains on turbo set ups. I'm not sure about 404's (B probably does) but I thought they could be considered to be similar to a stg2.

Cams, springs, tune and GSR trans is a nice bump for sure. I've seen LS w/GSR trans get off the line quick.
 
turbo cut cams are generally higher lift, near stock duration.
all motor cut cams are generally higher lift, longer duration.

fact is, people are making sick power on all motor cams on their turbo cars. the numbers don't lie
 
So that raises a question to me while I'm running it N/A obviously the stage 4s would give me a sick N/A bump but what about the turbo cams? For example the stage 2 turbo cams from crower, how would that change my N/A driving?
 
I'd really go with a NA cam. They're known to make you power now and later on with turbo.
 
without the compression needed to be effective, a large cam and low piston won't be a winning combination...
the turbo adds effective compression.
 
Well I'm gonna have to pull the head apart soon to fix the valve seals. I let it sit since last thursday and I started it up and revved to the 4k rpm launch redline and it bellowed oil out the back until it cleaned itself out. My plan was to build out the head when I go to do the seals so I need to come to a decision soon-ish. But I likely won't have money to boost it for at least another 6 months and in that time it'll be n/a but I'm still gonna want to beat on it. Would the 402t's perform better or worse than the 404s with the low comp pistons N/A
 
they will probably make similar power. the 404's won't be able to perform to their potential despite being 2 stages higher. you'll also need vastly different tunes to accomdate the fuel burn with extra the air moving in.

ultimately, don't worry about being 5-20 horse off your na build. focus on the end-goal and buy accordingly, or you'll spend more twice.
 
I dont want to put a cam in it and make it borderline undrivable until it's boosted though thats my main concern. I think both cams will lead me to my end goal but if the turbo ones have more of a stock cut i think they might make it run out smoother until i reach that "end goal". That's really my main concern, maybe I've been articulating this wrong :/ i feel like we've spent a lot of messages running in circles because I can't convey what I'm trying to
 
it will drive fine. it just won't make proper power without the compression.
 
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