B18b to Vtec B18b?

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M

madcatz

Teh Kitty
Yeah title sucks. Ive searched and looked all over and not found the exact info I am looking for...[edit] I found this https://hondaswap.com/general-tech-articles/ls-vtec-cr-vtec-info-8/, but again, not exactly what Im looking for

I own a B18b and want to create a LS/Vtec. Everything is ripped apart sans crank. My roommate and I are debating Turbo/SC or just NA. What all would I need to put a B16a2 head on, or should we just stay B18 and nab a B18c(1/5/JDM Type R) and then build internals appropriate to our final outcome?

I am coming from a solid Prelude background (3 h22a4's and a B20a5 (all in preludes)) so I dont know shit about the b-series. This will be my first time taking on a B-series other than an oil change.

Should we build the hybrid engine for the LS/Vtec, scrap it all together and get a B18/B16 long block and build appropriately to that?

I know I will get alot of biased opinions and the occasional Noob search fucktard comment but fuck it. I need/want to know and I cant find anything to answer my question.
 
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LS/Vtec is a cool engine. The b16 head flows a bit better than the gsr from what i hear, so id go with that.

im not familiar with the details of this build. im kinda where you were at. preludes/accords are my life.
 
do the lsvtec. get the coversion kit an your good. OR, if you want a real lsvtec with some pep to it. Take the pistons out and put some pr3's or p30. You can keep you stock rods i just recommend getting some new rod bolts. thats gonna be your reliable lsvtec with some power behind it.



ohhh almost forgot. you have to upgrade the lsvtec oil and water pump. I found a typr R pump for 50 bucks used with low miles for my motor. good luck
 
Taco15 said:
do the lsvtec. get the coversion kit an your good. OR, if you want a real lsvtec with some pep to it. Take the pistons out and put some pr3's or p30. You can keep you stock rods i just recommend getting some new rod bolts. thats gonna be your reliable lsvtec with some power behind it.

ohhh almost forgot. you have to upgrade the lsvtec oil and water pump. I found a typr R pump for 50 bucks used with low miles for my motor. good luck
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theres more to swapping pistons. just to clearify, a machine shop will more than likely have to do it. also you will want a machine shop to install the new rod bolts too. the rods will need to be resized when the press the new rod bolts in.

good luck.
 
brian11to1 said:
theres more to swapping pistons. just to clearify, a machine shop will more than likely have to do it. also you will want a machine shop to install the new rod bolts too. the rods will need to be resized when the press the new rod bolts in.

good luck.
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yes sir i do now that. I just didnt want to get all technical and too drawn out. But thanks for clarifying it. just in case. You never with some noobs.:rolleyes:
 
03 is dead. 05 is where its at, yo
 
ok i hate you guys. seriously hating you both right now. seriously............hating you all.


''screw you guys i'm going home!''
 
Ok.........Im not a total fucktard noob man.....just to clarify

Im noobish to B-series

I want to run the PR3-J00 ECU, socketed and tuned with Chrome or Neptune. PR3 Pistons (If i stay NA). What Rods will I have to run in order to not slap the valves?...again NA.....will do a custom set if going FI

Head will be decked, and IIRC the B18B is a open deck, so we will be getting the race engineering Block Brace to make it a semi-closed deck.

ARP will be any and all bolts (Head, connecting rods) ACL Bearings

Im not about to fuck up this engine

Thanks again for any and all help
 
You use PR4 or P75 LS rods with the PR3's

BlockGaurd/Block Brace is not needed for this build.
 
brian11to1 said:
You use PR4 or P75 LS rods with the PR3's

BlockGaurd/Block Brace is not needed for this build.
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yeah i agree. I had the pr4 rods on mine. you wont slap the valves..just the piston swap alone will give you a good compression bump for N/A. My motor made 172 whp with same block setup and gsr cams. very good, reliable and very awesome throttle responsive motor
 
I don't think the pr3 came as an obd1 ecu, did it? If you need obd1, get a p28 socketed and tuned with crome or neptune. If you are going obd0, go with a socketed pm6, and tune with turboedit or bre.
 
Next question....
JUN or Spoon Head work.....I have the entire JUN Headpackage for my prelude and am very happy with the results, so I am leaning towards the same for the head. If I ever decide to go with the GSR/Type R head or the B16a2 head

I want to try to get as close to 200 WHP as possible. What else will I need to try to get to my goal. NA talk strictly. I also want to be around 11:1 compression. Again I am strictly thinking like a Prelude/H22 guy, so if you guys know/have any insight as to My head is too far up my ass and in the clouds please feel free to bring my back to reality

Also....what would be my best bet for an ECU. We have a great deal on a Hondata S200 (No boost option) that we are gonna pick up.
again would we go with a P28?

I tuned with Greddy E-Manage on my P5M on the lude, so again I am clueless to this whole thing
 
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200 is definitly possible. I would try to go a little higher on compression. i'm at 11:3 and i want more. As far as tuning i'll leave it to Mike bergy or someone else to answer that
 
11.3.1. I think i'm close to 200. thanks to a P&P and skunk2 stage 2 cams from Mike Bergy:).Intake manifold is next on my list. I'm still debating spraying nitrous or staying N/A.
 
madcatz said:
Also....what would be my best bet for an ECU. We have a great deal on a Hondata S200 (No boost option) that we are gonna pick up.
again would we go with a P28?

I tuned with Greddy E-Manage on my P5M on the lude, so again I am clueless to this whole thing
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Yep, a p28 will do just fine with Hondata S200. I'm not sure of all that's involved with setting up hondata, but if you can get it for a good deal, then go for it. I know that you can get a p28 from xenocron for like 180 or so, already socketed with a datalogging port. Then you can pick up a Crome Pro license for 100, and with that you can datalog directly from the ecu, and if you have a Moates ostrich (or if your tuner has one, like I do) then you can program in realtime without having to burn a bunch of chips, and that will save a lot of time on tuning. I am not sure how quickly you can tune with hondata; I remember seeing a picture of an ecu with hondata in it, and it had a usb port on the side of the ecu which leads me to think that it is a realtime tuning type of thing, and that's pretty slick. So go with whatever setup is more cost effective. Tuning hondata and Crome are practically the same from what I've heard, so you should have no problem getting tuned.
 
reikoshea said:
LS/Vtec is a cool engine. The b16 head flows a bit better than the gsr from what i hear, so id go with that.

im not familiar with the details of this build. im kinda where you were at. preludes/accords are my life.
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correction a GSR head will ALWAYS outflow a b16 head (by mot much) as long as they get the same treatment..stock vs. stock....etc.
 
:orly:

i was told that the b16 has a lighter pnp than the itr, but they are the same casting.
 
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