the classic trio comparison, b16b vs b18c1/r

[Seany-izzle]

Background: Im keeping my civic for a little while longer than expected, so why not make it a little bit more fun? ^_^ Thought of turboing, but the d16 has 118k and im looking for reliablity and longevity priority number 1.

Funds: im looking to spend about 5k on a swap including what needs to be swapped into my ej.

Options: I've basically narrowed it down to 3 candidates, b16b, b18c1, and the b18c-r. the latter being about 5-600 more than i wanted to spend, but i am willing .

Dilemma: The cheapest of the 3 is the gsr motor, it also has the lowest hp (180 vs 185 and 210), but the 2nd highest tq (126 vs 117 and 134). Im having trouble choosing which one. is the type r motor that much better than the gsr? For a daily driver and weekend twisties attacker, does the gearing and type r (and b16b) high end really make a difference over the gsr gearing and top end? Does the extra 8tq make that much of a difference around town.. ok i can ansewr that.. no. but that extra 30hp looks awfully nice... Also, what sort of mpg's were/are people getting with each motor?? Also conisder simple I/H/E (well no H on the b16b and b18c-r).

Re-iterrated: which would you choose for your daily/twisties goer, b16b, b18c1, or b18c-r?? even tho the type r is a little more than you really wanted to spend.

 

[VTECin5th]

c1.
You're going to end up losing when you decide to sell/part, lose less and still have fun.

 

[Seany-izzle]

Or would you opt to spend 1k more for a full race stage 1 gt d16 turbo kit with pistons, rods, and 400hp axles (prob see around 275ish fwhp. I emailed a guy at full race, he said the stage 1 gt kits with what i told him mods would be and running around 12-14psi. (turbo is the gt28rs) All this on a 118k motor...

 

[get_nick]

a gt28rs is a huge turbo for a d16. i would go ls and save the money for a real car. maybe add a vtec head later. an lsvtec is cheaper than a gsr and is faster IMO.

 

[Seany-izzle]

ill have years to save up for a car. 5-6k into my current car to last another 4 or more years seems pretty good to me.. ill get same oem reliability and 150k miles out of it, all while still being faster and looking better.

 

[get_nick]

ill have years to save up for a car. 5-6k into my current car to last another 4 or more years seems pretty good to me.. ill get same oem reliability and 150k miles out of it, all while still being faster and looking better.

i didn't realize you were going to keep it that long. i was thinking maybe a year. i would get a gsr and maybe turbo it a little later. that would be a lot more fun. but an ls/vtec is fun to play with to,even though it isn't on your list.

 

[Seany-izzle]

ill probably drive it regularly for another 2-3 then try and buy a new car, but ill probably never sell it cuz it wouldnt be worth it.

 

[Seany-izzle]

anyone think that turboing a 118k d16 wouldnt last long? sayyy full race with forged rods and pistons...

 

[get_nick]

anyone think that turboing a 118k d16 wouldnt last long? sayyy full race with forged rods and pistons...

you are going to put too much work into that car. i would just put a turbo on it and drive normal. it sounds to me that you want to get pretty hard core with your build. if you rebuild it, it would be like a new motor and not 118k. it basically comes down to how much you want to invest in the motor.

 

[Seany-izzle]

btw, when you said the gt28rs was a huge turbo for the d16, the full-race website says it comes in different sizes and a/r's... or am i missing something?

 

[daf]

c1, Its cheaper, and the only REAL dif with the c1 and the ITR is a P&P head and higher compression, youll have a ITR for cheaper then the accual red top.

 

[Seany-izzle]

does everyone think a turbo d16 with 118k miles but new pistons/rods last a good amount of time (if not as long as) versus a i/h/e gsr motor??

 

[daf]

if you dont plan on keeping the car for a while, sure, why not, but if you wanna keep it and build it up, a B or K is the way to go really.