B16a Odb2????

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DarkElfTRP

New Member
Just got my car back (93 Civic HB DX) swapped in a B16A

Holy cow patties bat man!! It's freaking nice now!!!

One thing thogh the guys at the shop say my engine is ODB2!! wtf!!! I went with a B16A since i thought they would only be ODB1

Car runs great however, but I would like to have it wired up right, any suggestion as to which harness i should get or all they all the same?
 
Stamp on the block says B16A

Talking to the guys i bought the engine from they say its a B16A2

Serial number on the block starts with a 6 I think cannot see it real good. (contacts are fubar and cannot find my extra eyes)
 
ok this is how that shit goes........it is either a b16a sir 1 or a b16a si11 which are both obd 1's from honda. because all american engines where marked with all the numbers and following letters to. so for it to be a obd2 then some one has chage out the injectors and dissy and a few other things to make it obd2. so just change the few things back and it will all be obd1 again. but the car shouldn't be running right with obd1 computer and obd2 parts. so are you running a obd2 computer..?
 
Unsure which ECU i am running to be honest

All i can vouch for is how hard it pulls, even if its a pain in the ass to shift into 5th

the Check Engine lite comes on about 5 secs after I start the car. Guys at the shop say its casue the car is OBD1 and the Engine is ODB2

One thing though, it does seem to be going through gas, I will know better once I put in some better gas (running the cheapo stuff atm since the old engine had a blown cyl) and I stop standing on it.
 
do you know how to check codes...? if not get a book check the codes and see what they are. that would be the best place to start....!!
 
well did some reading up and it looks like my engine came out of this:

6G ’96-’00 Civic SiR II
Japan EK
B16A 1595 10.4:1
168hp@7800
116lb-ft@7300

so with that settled, looks like I need to get a ODB2 to ODB1 harness and go from there. Until then I am going to be getting codes that will make no sence.

If I am wrong let me know
 
Last edited:
DarkElfTRP said:
well did some reading up and it looks like my engine came out of this:

6G ’96-’00 Civic SiR II
Japan EK
B16A 1595 10.4:1
168hp@7800
116lb-ft@7300

so with that settled, looks like I need to get a ODB2 to ODB1 harness and go from there. Until then I am going to be getting codes that will make no sence.

If I am wrong let me know
Click to expand...
My engine is obd2, my car is obd1.
I'm using a chipped p28 ecu with a p30 chip.
There is no problem with doing this... at all.
The check engine light is probably the Intake Air Temperature Sensor, on obd2 b16's the IAT was in the intake tube instead of in the intake manifold.
Check the codes from the check-engine-light and see what it says. This will cause a loss in gas mileage.
Running an obd2 engine with obd2 components is NOT a problem in a 93 hatchback, do NOT buy a conversion harness.
 
Quick question since I have not had enough time to look under the dash with work and all, will and ODB2 engine work with a stock ODB1 ECU? Casue I think that is what I have..

PS:
Starting to think I am going to keep the car stock looking, took out a Jetta yesterday, he did not know to shit or have egg rolls, when I took off from the line and the engine opened up.
 
DarkElfTRP said:
Quick question since I have not had enough time to look under the dash with work and all, will and ODB2 engine work with a stock ODB1 ECU? Casue I think that is what I have..

PS:
Starting to think I am going to keep the car stock looking, took out a Jetta yesterday, he did not know to shit or have egg rolls, when I took off from the line and the engine opened up.
Click to expand...
I'm using an OBD1 P28 ecu just fine with my completely obd2 engine.
My injectors,alternator and distributor are all obd2, i used an integra GSR wiring harness for complete plug-n-play use. I only use a p28 because it was cheaper and easier to find than a Real p30.
My p28 is chipped and I'm using a p30 chip inside. You need to find out what check engine light codes you're getting.
 
Well I found out today I have a P30 ECU, dropped my cell phone and said wtf while I am down here let me look..

Now for the stupid question, how to do I check for the codes, I know I need to look for a light but I cannot see where on the ECU it is.
 
DarkElfTRP said:
Well I found out today I have a P30 ECU, dropped my cell phone and said wtf while I am down here let me look..

Now for the stupid question, how to do I check for the codes, I know I need to look for a light but I cannot see where on the ECU it is.
Click to expand...
The p30 is the RIGHT Ecu to use for a b16 swap, so you're fine with that.
It's also pretty rare to come by. Do the jumper thing mentioned in that post and then let us know what the codes are ^_^
I bet one is for IAT sensor, and maybe another for Knock Sensor.
 
humm okay was reading what eg6sir said to read and looked at my car, I can see the the blue connectors one with 3 wires one with 2 wires, however, the black wire is on the connector with 3 pins and the brown is on the one with 2 pins, do i short those 2 out or do I just do short out the 2 pin connector? I can supply pics if needed.
 
DarkElfTRP said:
humm okay was reading what eg6sir said to read and looked at my car, I can see the the blue connectors one with 3 wires one with 2 wires, however, the black wire is on the connector with 3 pins and the brown is on the one with 2 pins, do i short those 2 out or do I just do short out the 2 pin connector? I can supply pics if needed.
Click to expand...
jump the two pin connector, if you jump the 3 pin connector you will blow your dome light fuse.
 
been out of town, so have not had a chance to look into the CEL, if it is my IAT, what would be the best course of action to get this fixed
 
Codes are:
20, 21, 22,23

any help would be great...

I know 21 - 23 are dealing with vtec not to sure about the 20 though
 
DarkElfTRP said:
Codes are:
20, 21, 22,23

any help would be great...

I know 21 - 23 are dealing with vtec not to sure about the 20 though
Click to expand...
20 is ELD, something that I know 0 about, I don't think the USDM cars even have them.
Knock Sensor is 23, that code is going to be there unless you get a Socketed p28 ecu, or Socket your p30 ecu, and have another chip burned with Knock Sensor disabled.
If you're throwing 21 and 22, that means that the VTEC isn't wired correctly.
Whoever did the wiring on your swap should be punched in the face. ^_^
 
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