400 hp b18b build

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spoolin@idle

D Series FTL
I'm halfway between a decent build and a budget build. I refuse to aim for that power mark on a stock bottom end... but I won't go "all out" and build something that is going to be capable of 600 hp when I don't plan on putting that down.

Starting out with a full B18B (no, not doing lsvtec)... this is my plan. I'm going to at least have the block hot tanked and surfaces decked, as well as having the cylinders posted. Cheaper alternative to sleeving it and I don't want to deal with the non-cooling issues that block guards can cause. I am thinking CP pistons, Eagle rods, ARP rod bolts, new seals and bearings obviously. MLS head gasket, ARP head studs, Crower cams, crower valvetrain, Ferrera valves, and of course, the head will recieve a PnP.

Some people are telling me "no just have the block sleeved". For those of you who DO actually know what posting is... please let me know if you fully agree with me in that 400 hp should be easily attainable with 9:1 compression, the build listed above, and say 18 - 20 psi through a GT35R.
 
looks like good choices. only thing i personally would change is the valves and springs. look into manley, they have some good prices. I cant find anyone who actively sells their parts for imports, but the guy in my sig can get them.

Your build is attainable. While you do have the posibility of blowing your engine (tuning will be the big cause of this), not sleeving will not be the reason the engine blows. Even if it does, buying another b18 block is still cheaper than sleeving.
 
looks like good choices. only thing i personally would change is the valves and springs. look into manley, they have some good prices. I cant find anyone who actively sells their parts for imports, but the guy in my sig can get them.

Your build is attainable. While you do have the posibility of blowing your engine (tuning will be the big cause of this), not sleeving will not be the reason the engine blows. Even if it does, buying another b18 block is still cheaper than sleeving.

Tuning is not an issue. Myself and my roommate both know our tuning quite well. It is my belief, as well as his, that as long as the block is posted properly by my machine shop, everything should be fine.
 
you should be good, but posting is not a substitute (meaning as good) for sleeving. but it is a cheaper alternative for adding stability to your block.
 
jeff evans and others are making 450-500+ on stock sleeves, without posting. tuning, tuning tuning.
 
only thing really is the gt35r might be a little big for your goals, but ive never gone that high on a b18b. an lsvtec (gsr head) would definitely hit 450+ at 20 psi. I dont know if a stock ls head flows well enough to do the same.
 
only thing really is the gt35r might be a little big for your goals, but ive never gone that high on a b18b. an lsvtec (gsr head) would definitely hit 450+ at 20 psi. I dont know if a stock ls head flows well enough to do the same.

I was thinking about that this morning. Considering costs, I will probably just do a T3/T04E 60/63 .50 trim. I can get them brand new for about $600. The LS head will also be ported and polished as well as turbo spec crower cams, full valvetrain.
 
i think your second choice is much more in the range of a budget build and it will meet your power goals as well. i say go for it.
 
i think your second choice is much more in the range of a budget build and it will meet your power goals as well. i say go for it.


Indeed I shall. I'm wondering if I should spend the money on a nice equal length / ramhorn manifold or whether I should just go log. Eh fuck it. I like purdy manifolds that flow better. I'll do equal length.
 
Only thing I'd say, make sure you have the ignition/fuel output to handle this .. oh, it deserve a nice header too.

Posting has been successfully used for years .. nice list.
 
i know what he meant. cooks turbo headers for mustangs are called just that.

its basically a tubular turbo manifold rather than conventional log style. and yes i do intend on using a "turbo header"
 
Nah, Blanco, you're all good ... I agree terminology does matter. Normally,
I type the shortest possible answer ... which can come out confusing for some.

Turbo may come from the term turbine, but they are definitely not the same! A blower is a belt-driven device for 'stacking' air into an intake manifold using a screw-type or other style rotor, & was originally intended for large diesel/farm equipment motors/engines. (term- engine or motor??) A centrifugal supercharger is a belt-driven turbo ....... on & on.
 
guys it's okay. i know terminology, and i know the contexts used in this thread.

lol this is going to get expensive real quick
 
just fired my built turbo b16 up last night. waiting for tuning built just haw u said ur goin to build yours. your be fine. 400 easy hp.(lots of dyno time)and even more money
 
dyno time and tuning is no big deal.

me and my roommate have tuned many, many turbo setups. uberdata, chrome, hondata, megasquirt, you name it.

oh, and i decided to go LS-VTEC. no sense not to realistically.
 
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