Na Lsvtec Motor !

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E

eman

New Member
Tell me what you guys and girls think about my set up.
Skunk 2 intake manifold
Skunk 2 stage 2 camshafts
AEM cold air intake
Hayame fuel rail
RC270cc injectors
B&M FPR
MSD 6A ignition
MSD sparkplug wires
Iridium spark plugs
VAFC vtec controller
Eagle rods
CTR pistons
ARP headbolts.
 
id go with bigger injectors, like 310 or even 290, but 270 def can be tuned for that setup, id get some head work done obviously, get maybe the new SCI digital ignition from MSD, also your transmission you need to look into which im sure you have , you cant make a fast car without transferring the most power possible to the ground..
 
what are you looking to run with that set-up as far as your 1/4 mile e.t.? dont forget to get some arp rod bolts as well.
 
I would also recommend something good for fuel management such as crome,uberdata, hondata. Especially with that high compression and camshaft upgrade. It will run alot better and make the most power possible.
 
I would recommend a little research on what all those upgrades will actually do for you performance wise.

Tell me what you guys and girls think about my set up.
Skunk 2 intake manifold - Good. It will open up the bottleneck here. More airflow = potential for more power
Skunk 2 stage 2 camshafts - Also potential for more power from the extra duration and lift.
AEM cold air intake - Ditto to the above. I've heard it delays your throttle response compared to short ram intakes. You should look at the Password JDM "whale penis" intake; look at the pros and cons of both.
Hayame fuel rail - Waste of money, especially for a naturally aspirated setup
RC270cc injectors - OEMs are 240 cc for the B-series, and they are not even close to being maxed out on stock maps. However, they are probably limited to 200whp. I believe iven the ITR injectors are 240cc
B&M FPR - Again, waste of money.
MSD 6A ignition - Waste. Stock ignition has been proven to make over 400whp
MSD sparkplug wires - Again, oem wires are used by a lot of racers, and have been shown to deliver a better spark.
Iridium spark plugs - They last longer. That's about it. Get some NGK v-powers and call it good.
VAFC vtec controller - Get some real engine management. Vtec was set at a certain point by the honda engineers for a reason. The only reason you should have to change the VTEC engagement is if you are tuning it on a dyno.
Eagle rods - Good stuff. I'm running them, and they are a great value for the money.
CTR pistons - Heard good things about them, but I've also read that the compression ratio when they are put in a b18 block is really high for a street vehicle on pump gas. You'd probably be better off with some p30's
ARP headbolts- Headstuds, but yeah. I am running them without issues, I think they are a great value to the build.
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I'm not really into drag racing. I just want something that is a little bit fast on the freeways and highways and something that can hang with what everyone have while keeping it looking stock.
 
formby said:
since when can you run eagle rods on oem pistons?
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lol, I didn't even think of that. True...you either need to run oem with oem or aftermarket with aftermarket. If you are gonna go with the CTR or P30 pistons, get some ARP rod bolts for the stock LS rods, and get them resized.
 
sell about every fuel component you listed go with stock type r injector rest just stock from b16, oversized pr3 or p30 piston on stock ls rod, with of course as he said arp rod bolts and arp head studs, get portflow to do your head work, get buddy club spec 3 cams or best all around CTR cams, get rid of vafc and get a hondata s300, and a b16 trans or if you can afford a type r trans really dont matter a ton if you know how to drive
 
sell about every fuel component you listed go with stock type r injector rest just stock from b16, oversized pr3 or p30 piston on stock ls rod, with of course as he said arp rod bolts and arp head studs, get portflow to do your head work, get buddy club spec 3 cams or best all around CTR cams, get rid of vafc and get a hondata s300, and a b16 trans or if you can afford a type r trans really dont matter a ton if you know how to drive
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https://hondaswap.com/general-tech-articles/honda-injector-flow-rates-6/
All obd 1/2 B series are 240cc's saturated

All obd 1/2 D series are 240-cc's saturated

1992-96 Prelude non-vtec Peak and hold 240cc
1992-96 Prelude VTEC Peak and hold 345cc
1997-up Prelude VTEC Saturated 280cc

hondata s300
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crome pro FTW!
 
dazedandconfused said:
Well you can have the rods machined to fit the p30 pistons, But why would you not buy new pistons instead of paying to machine the rods.
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You don't have to machine stock ls rods for p30 pistons to fit. You only have to do that if you are using p72(gsr), p73(ITR), or pct(CTR) pistons.
 
dazedandconfused said:
Well you can have the rods machined to fit the p30 pistons, But why would you not buy new pistons instead of paying to machine the rods.
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and cause its 20 bucks to machine rods and oem pistons are cheaper than JE/Wiseco/CP.
 
dazedandconfused said:
Well you can have the rods machined to fit the p30 pistons, But why would you not buy new pistons instead of paying to machine the rods.
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Oh yeah, and stock pistons aren't as loud, and they have less blowby when the engine is cold....and, and....oh yeah, they will hold a good amount of power.
 
glad it only took you this long to realize that. im going on 2 years and im still determined to make the prelude an NA whore.
 
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