wiring up a h22a vtec

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sniezek66

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yes i have just installed an h22a into my 92 honda prelude si (h23a) and i need help with the wiring. I think TAB told me you just have to wire up the vtec solenoid, but can't remeber. Could you please send tell me which wires i need to tap into (either at the ecu or engine compartment harness). If you have a pic of this it would be great. I'm kinda in a hurry and don't have time to search through the forums to find it so if you could send me the link or pics that would be great

Thanks
Kurtis

email sniezek66@hotmail.com
 
Originally posted by sniezek66@Oct 23 2004, 03:11 PM
yes i have just installed an h22a into my 92 honda prelude si (h23a) and i need help with the wiring. I think TAB told me you just have to wire up the vtec solenoid, but can't remeber. Could you please send tell me which wires i need to tap into (either at the ecu or engine compartment harness). If you have a pic of this it would be great. I'm kinda in a hurry and don't have time to search through the forums to find it so if you could send me the link or pics that would be great

Thanks
Kurtis

email sniezek66@hotmail.com
[post=406552]Quoted post[/post]​


Ok, the first picture shows the wires that you are dealing with, and the second picture is a detail of what you need to know. Blue wire D6. Green Wire A4. Black wire ground. I grounded mine to that screw, works fine. Your H23A should have already had knock and IAB. You might have to change the fitting that connects to your VTEC oil pressure sensor(yellow wire with red stripe below the oil filter).

That's it. Good luck.

You might also need this :) <<<<<<Clicky
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Thanks a ton TAB i really appreciate the help. I have one quick question i noticed on the top of the intake right above the injectors is a black solenoid that has one vaccum line that runs to the intake and the other that runs to the fuel pressure regulator. My h23a did not have that the vaccum line when straight to the regualtor. Will i need to wire this up or can i eliminate it and run the vaccum line straight to the regulator let me know and THANKS AGAIN

Kurtis
 
Originally posted by sniezek66@Oct 24 2004, 12:21 AM
Thanks a ton TAB i really appreciate the help. I have one quick question i noticed on the top of the intake right above the injectors is a black solenoid that has one vaccum line that runs to the intake and the other that runs to the fuel pressure regulator. My h23a did not have that the vaccum line when straight to the regualtor. Will i need to wire this up or can i eliminate it and run the vaccum line straight to the regulator let me know and THANKS AGAIN

Kurtis
[post=406650]Quoted post[/post]​


I believe you are looking at my EGR solenoid valve. Yours may be different. I utilized the stock EGR(Accord) to save on wiring, since it was a bolt up item and was already wired for my stock harness. Why not? Anyhow, yours may differ slightly, but should still be similar and have a vacuum hose going to it. Mine is hose #16, as is every other Accord I've seen so far. Preludes are probably the same.

Always run your vacuum lines and stuff as close to stock as possible. If you are looking at another picture not shown above, circle what you are talking about and post the picture.
 
Okay, I know what you are saying now. My LX must have had the wiring for that solenoid, and hence I re-used it. Funny though, I went out and looked at my EX, and there is no solenoid. Vacuum hose #7 goes straight to the regulator, no wiring.
 
ok tab thanks alot. Now i have another problem. The car starts and runs fine, but it won't shift it just stays in first gear. I used the h23a auto tranny. When i start it the D4 light on the gash just keeps blinking on and off. Do i need to run some more wires. I don't see where i did anything wrong and i don't have anything unhooked from the tranny let me know if there is something else i need to do with this swap.

Thanks
Kurtis
 
Ok TAB nevermind i figured out the tranny issue had a borken wire to one of the shift solenoids. But i do wanna ask you this. I have a check engine light on and i'm getting two codes on intial start up. The first is codes 13 which is atmosphereic switch circuit low and code 22 which is vtech oil pressure switch malfunction, but it says for civics only which has me thrown off. I have both sensors hooked up and are making tight connections. Have you ever seen this before and do you have any ideas of what could be causing this. The vtech pressure switch is the big sensors about 2 inchs below the oil filter housing correct? Also at this point i do not know if the vtec is working because i can't drive it do to the fact i didn't relaize the front flex pipes are different so i had to order one up, but i'm assuming it won't work with the code i'm getting. Let me know what you think

Thanks
Kurtis
 
The VTEC pressure switch isn't just for civics. That sensor is for Preludes and Accords with VTEC as well.

That's the one with the blue and black wire. Double check your ground to that switch and recheck the wire. Also, make sure that the wire is inserted into the proper slot. Check the color codes on the chart to see which wires are to either side of the wire you are running. This will confirm that you are in the right pin slot.
 
Barometric Pressure Sensor

Haven't had to deal with that. I'd look it up in a manual, and see if you plugged it in right.......New to me.
 
Well tab after i put the wire in the correct slot (d6) the light went out and no codes. Strange huh. I do want to add one piece of info that you were unsure about before. The h23a distributor will work with the h22a. Also the flywheels are interchangable. Other then that all went smooth. But the front flex pipes are not interchangeable they have to changed over. That's it I thank you for your help

Kurtis
 
Originally posted by sniezek66@Oct 25 2004, 05:08 PM
Well tab after i put the wire in the correct slot (d6) the light went out and no codes. Strange huh. I do want to add one piece of info that you were unsure about before. The h23a distributor will work with the h22a. Also the flywheels are interchangable. Other then that all went smooth. But the front flex pipes are not interchangeable they have to changed over. That's it I thank you for your help

Kurtis
[post=407269]Quoted post[/post]​


Cool, the distributor works.......

The flywheels I knew were interchangeable, but that's cool too.

I'm glad I can help, even in a small way. Enjoy all that H22 goodness!!!! How sweet it is.

The wiring isn't all that bad is it? The first time is always sooooo frustrating and intimidating. It get's easier every time. :)
 
Yeah it wasn't bad at all. I have done three swaps prior and the last one i did was a gsr motor into a 91 civic si. It was a nightmare, but i got it done. I promised myself i would never do one again so i was leary about doing this prelude, but it was simply. The only hard part (not for me but others) is pinning the harness for the new wires to the vtech. Luckily i had an old harness laying around that i could steal some pins from so it made it easy, but for people who don't have that luxury i would think they would have a hard time. So SAVE OLD PARTS is the moral to this story. But yeah i can't wait to take the car out. The front flex pipe is coming tomorrow so i'll be ready to go after that. Thanks again for the help i really appreciate it. Your little bit of help goes miles.

Kurtis
 
Hey TAB i have one more question for you. When i did this swap i used the h23a auto tranny. The swap i bought came with a auto jdm tranny, but i did not use it because i knew mine was good and i didn't want to get shot in the foot. What i want to know is if i switch tranny ecu's will it change the shift pattern of the car. I noticed that the auto tranny kinda takes away the full effect of the vtec engagement. Basically it's stealing some of it's power. I know manual is the better way to go, but i can't drive manual's due to breaking my ankle twice and that constant movement kills my ankle. So let me know what you think about that or will it not make a difference.

Thanks
Kurtis
 
Originally posted by sniezek66@Oct 31 2004, 10:49 AM
Hey TAB i have one more question for you. When i did this swap i used the h23a auto tranny. The swap i bought came with a auto jdm tranny, but i did not use it because i knew mine was good and i didn't want to get shot in the foot. What i want to know is if i switch tranny ecu's will it change the shift pattern of the car. I noticed that the auto tranny kinda takes away the full effect of the vtec engagement. Basically it's stealing some of it's power. I know manual is the better way to go, but i can't drive manual's due to breaking my ankle twice and that constant movement kills my ankle. So let me know what you think about that or will it not make a difference.

Thanks
Kurtis
[post=409803]Quoted post[/post]​


Yes it will work. In fact, I switched from the F22 Auto to H22 w LSD nearly a year after my swap. The H22 gearing is not much different at all. The main difference I felt was a slightly firmer shift, and the LSD.

JDM auto TCU will change your shift points and compliment your swap nicely.
 
The 'gearing' on the JDM auto tranny is slightly different. Basically you can get up to about 120 in 3rd. 4th is useless unless you get into vtec before it shifts.

I always held mine in D3 when racing...by the time I hit 120 I had a damn good lead on my opponent... :lol: ..of course the JDM ecu cuts you off at 115 unless you get something that interrupts your VSS (but then you lose cruise control).

A notable difference is that the JDM torque converter does have a slightly higher stall point.

When racing I would manually shift mine around 7800 on the stock tach (which was about a true 7200).. tranny held up for nearly a year doing this every day. (I live on the windward side of an island and we have to go up a steep grade mountain to get to town)..so the JDM tranny's are definitely stronger than their USDM counterparts. With my stock f22 tranny and engine I went through 2 tranny's in a year until I figured out that they hate being force shifted... :unsure:
 
Originally posted by sleepn_accord@Nov 1 2004, 08:16 PM
The 'gearing' on the JDM auto tranny is slightly different. Basically you can get up to about 120 in 3rd. 4th is useless unless you get into vtec before it shifts.

I always held mine in D3 when racing...by the time I hit 120 I had a damn good lead on my opponent... :lol: ..of course the JDM ecu cuts you off at 115 unless you get something that interrupts your VSS (but then you lose cruise control).

A notable difference is that the JDM torque converter does have a slightly higher stall point.

When racing I would manually shift mine around 7800 on the stock tach (which was about a true 7200).. tranny held up for nearly a year doing this every day. (I live on the windward side of an island and we have to go up a steep grade mountain to get to town)..so the JDM tranny's are definitely stronger than their USDM counterparts. With my stock f22 tranny and engine I went through 2 tranny's in a year until I figured out that they hate being force shifted... :unsure:
[post=410309]Quoted post[/post]​


Funny I beat the piss out of my F22 tranny, and never blew it. I changed the fluid often though.

I shifted at almost the same exact point.
 
Hi, I have a vtech that I want to put in my 86 accord full load auto 4spd.
the vtech came from a wreck so I have most of the stuff.
I look forward to picking all the great Brains of the members of Hondaswap.
Thx, Rick
 
Hi, I have a vtech that I want to put in my 86 accord full load auto 4spd.
the vtech came from a wreck so I have most of the stuff.
I look forward to picking all the great Brains of the members of Hondaswap.
Thx, Rick

you can pick our brains all you want, but do it in a new thread instead of bumping a 2 year old one.

i will say that an h22 will be an interesting swap into an 86 accord (it will be cool if you pull it off, seeing as the accord hatch is one of the best looking hondas ever).
 
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