Safe Redline???

We may earn a small commission from affiliate links and paid advertisements. Terms

94_gs-r

94_gs-r

can you say 260 whp N/A??
ok, im going to list everything i am wanting to safely touch 9k


ls rods (bead blasted and balanced)
hasting 11:5:1 flycut pistons moley coated
ls crank micropolished and balanced
gsr block
arp rod bolds and head studs
block hot tanked and honed
stage2 clutch and 7lb flywheel
gsr head 3angle valve job hot tanked also
ferrea valves
crower dual titanium valve springs and retainers
spec IV buddy club cams
skunk2 pro series cam gears (06 version)
skunk 2 intake manifold and tb
what would a safe redline be with this setup?
 
when you put it on the dyno find out where it stops making power, then you will have your redline. this way you know you arent under reving it, and not over reving it for no reason. your VT should be sufficient to rev to 9k, BUT theres no point if your power falls off at 8k.
 
i know i can tune it that way and just look at where it looses pwer i just want to make sure im doing that, that if it looses pwer at 9.5 k if its safe to keep reving to 9k i dont want to blow it, does it sound sollid enough to handle those kinda rpms?

the crank i bought is used but no damage i just want it to have that much more edge over everyone else that has the ls/vtec... mine needs to be better and faster and get up and go... basically i want it to be faster then my brothers car, the diff is, he has the money to blow i need to nickel and dime it, every little trick or cheat i can do to make it better helps and the only way i could think of is off the crank but after reading that article i dont want to rist that.
the machine shop thats doing my work is going to assemble the block also so you think they will have already line bored it?
 
Last edited:
Blanco said:
Just to cover this base, you'll have to line bore the block mains to accept the new crank.
Click to expand...
he shouldnt if he uses the gsr mains/girdle. but he will likely have to get new bearing colors as the number/letter combinations will be different.

and micro polish wont give you anymore hp. it just cleans up the surface of the journals to make them smooth. if the crank isnt damaged in any way or have any scratches on the journals its really a waste, but it wont hurt anything.
 
but since its polished wouldnt it run smoother through oil amd at least make a little less friction?
 
The kind of advantages you are looking for usually come from things like advanced machine work and a fuck load of research and forethought prior to final assembly.

Don't forget there is a difference between rev limit and red line, some people switch these terms in conversation and cause confusion. This is just a side note though.

The kinds of modifications you may want to look into are ones like this:

The Old One - Energy Dynamics : Articles

There are many advanced machining and engine building techniques out there that will help you find "free" power by simply reworking the efficiency or function of some part or system. If you can combine as much of these techniques and procedures as possible with the aftermarket parts you have chosen and good tuning, you'll simply make more power than a very similar builds.

You could always go turbo :)
 
94_gs-r said:
but since its polished wouldnt it run smoother through oil amd at least make a little less friction?
Click to expand...

Not enough to produce any real noticeable power gains, just furthered reliability. That's only as far as I know though.
 
my next project is going to be a fully built turbo project with 32 psi,
but the machine shop is offering to micropolish it because im bringing them business
 
you wont get any power gains from a micropolish. i just makes the surface completely clean and flat so there arent any scratches or anything. really just keeps the surface consistant across the journal, to keep your clearances consistant. its a longevity thing, not a power thing. the crank isnt in constant contact with the bearings. your crank rides on a thin layer of oil. having smoother surfaces in theory will reduce the shear stresses on the oil and overall friction, but its so minimal that its not worth doing for power reasons. you wont see .01 more hp because of it.

and stop asking safe rev limit. your rev limit, mechanically, is generally determined by your valve springs, and the rod bolts. you have upgraded them both. you have ARP bolts so your good there. and i think crowers will be good to 9000. you might want to ask the people at crower what they recommend as the max rev limit for their valve springs.

honestly, looking at your setup, i think your power is going to drop off at 8-8.5k anyway. thats why i said put it on a dyno and find out where it stops making power, and rev maybe a few hundred RPMs over that. my motor has a shorter stroke then yours and my power starts dropping at about 8500. i rev it to about 8700. my motor physically could handle 9500+, but theres no point since im not making power that high.
 
thats the answere i was lookin for. thank you, basically was just wondering if the ls rods and crank could handle high rpms. thanks, if i knew how to boost your rep power id do it
 
the cams is whats really gonna determine where your powerband starts and stops...
 
The B18's have a stock redline of 8200RPM, I think youll be safe with a 9K redline.
And the cams have a lot to do with it.
Good luck
 
i wont be running the engine stock, so basically if i just put arp's in there i should be fine

does honeing the head add performance or does it just clean it up
 
should i go all out on a port or if i go to big with my setup. will i loose performance?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top