Car is bogging around 3.5k rpms when accelerating

[swoop105a]

Car is bogging around 3.5k rpms when accelerating looking for insight and ideas

I am having this problem with my 92 civic hatch back with the stock d15.
When i take off it goes fine till about 3.5k to 4k rpms the engine cuts out and bogs. It makes a bumbum bumbum bumbum sound. If i let off alittle and push the gas pedal down it will power past it. This happens in ever gear at the same rpm if i am at half throttle. Also seems to happen after the engine is warmed up.
I have flushed the fuel system , replaced filter, plugs , check the cap and it is alittle pitted but not to bad. I have tried adjusting the timing and still does the same thing. Any one have any ideas maybe the igniter or distributor ?

 

[swoop105a]

Ok I went back today check the CEL and though that it threw a 1 code so I replaced the o2 sensor, plus the old one looked beat up. It was still bogging so I adjusted the timing alittle and also adjusted my TPS position and its not bogging as bad as before. But the CEL is still coming up ... now I am thinking it would be a 10 code it is throwing which is a intake temperature sensor. The one on there looks pretty old so I am going to change that next. Also the car has a unusually loud intake sound, which its had the whole time before i started trying to get this car back running right. Picked it up off some kide who knew nothing about taking care of it . I have another hatch with a built b16 for racing and it doesn't even have that loud of a manifold sound. Could there be more to this issue that I am missing ? Guess I will find out soon enough. Any other thoughts or input would be welcomed

 

[mazEK]

Try changing out the TPS sensor you mught find one online or maybe a friend but you cant buy them seperatley at a dealer. Theyre like 30 bucks. Give it a shot

 

[mazEK]

TPS sensor (throttle position)

 

[dixonsi]

look man try runing you car with out the cat the same thing happen to me about the sound soon your car will get a lot slower just try it man tell me what happens. plus the bumpbumpbump thing did you change the IM if so that the (tps) it will only do it when you idel to long then you got to turn off the car and it will run fine untill u let it idel again. let me know what happens

 

[swoop105a]

I thought it could have been the cat when i first picked this car up .... but the cat has been long gone. I might replace the rest of the pipe from the header back to see if that helps the flow (might still be a clog somewhere in there). I had the same problem with the cat on my 99 si it got louder and slower .... So i replaced and that was gone.

I changed the IM Temp sensor and the check engine light went out. The TPS is next on my list to change... i have got it running to were it doesnt really do it anymore but it still idels funny. happens more when the car has been running for a while ... when you first start it in the morning you dont notice it . This is just my daily driver so i am trying to get all this worked out.... funny thing is i am going to be swaping this junker engine for a k series soon.

 

[dixonsi]

why r u going k20 insted of some thing easer and cheaper to drop in. how much you paying for the swap

 

[swoop105a]

I had my 98 prelude with JRSC, i had a 94 civic coup. d16 vtec with greddy t3/t4 kit, now i have this car and my 89 hatch striped down with a sir b16, itr cams head has been P&P, vavles & springs etc. But the K20 has so much more to offer than a b series or h22. I have been doing my research and i was impressed with what i found. For the engine and trans and ecu i am going to spend in the ball park of 2 to 2.5k i know alot of people that work in salvage yards so might come across it cheaper. I am going to do the work my self at my house with my roomates so the only thing i will have to pay for is parts, shifter , mounts etc.

 

[dixonsi]

r u geting the 200hp k20 or the 160hp

 

[swoop105a]

200 with the six speed from a type s, at first i plan to just run it with I/H/E and the honda data ecu .... looking for low 13`s high 12`s then after a few paychecks go with the itb`s

 

[turbo sol]

.... looking for low 13`s high 12`s then after a few paychecks go with the itb`s

dream on kid...you ain't gonna be in the 13 to 12 range with a k20 with basic mods...throw a 50 shot at it and you might be in the 14's...high 14's...as for the bogging...try replacing the cap and rotor.

 

[swoop105a]

My 89 civic Runs 13.9 all day and and thats just a b16, itr cams head has been P&P, vavles & springs intake header and act six puck. when i did have spray on it (zex 55 shot)13.3. As for what the k20 i have seen them run in the 13`s with just mild upgrades. You should check topsetup 92 eg ......YouTube - Top Setup 92 Civic EG K20 Engine Swap its all about your set up and tuning . Also Hybrid racing has a good write up comparing the K to b Series :: Welcome to Hybrid-Racing.com :: as far as a crazy built up b20 to say a k series with mild upgrades. I already had taken the cap and rotor part and checked them ..... they were fairly new and did not have much wear on them. I did clean the contacts up alittle thats about all that needed. the bogging is pretty much gone since i adjusted the timing and replaced that intake sensor now it just idels funny after its been warm for a while and running. And idels low , even after adjusting the idel to run higher .

 

[dixonsi]

dream on kid...you ain't gonna be in the 13 to 12 range with a k20 with basic mods...throw a 50 shot at it and you might be in the 14's...high 14's...as for the bogging...try replacing the cap and rotor.

i have a 2000 si with h/i/e/im and stage 2 cluch and i run a 14.2 down here in houston it is all about the set up i out run civic si with a lot more mods then i got and i get them by 2 to 3 cars i think a k20 would put you in high to mid 13 with the right driver.hell i have seen gsr run high 13's with a little boltons. say im bull shiting but i have now reason to lie.

 

[turbo sol]

i guess i'm not used to you guys that run at sea level yet...up here in montana you'd never get 12's and 13's with a light tune k20...i guess it's the altitude...lack of oxygen.

 

[ThatGuy4life]

i guess i'm not used to you guys that run at sea level yet...up here in montana you'd never get 12's and 13's with a light tune k20...i guess it's the altitude...lack of oxygen.

same here in Albuquerque, when i get to the 13's range up here i'll have to take a run down there and see what she does

 

[turbo sol]

it should drop a half to a full second depending on the elevation there.

 

[swoop105a]

You just have to tune your Air/ Fuel, timing, etc. to suit your environment. It does change elevation that's why you have to tune your car. Temp. out side can effect your times to. winter i run .2 to .4 faster than summer.

 

[dixonsi]

yea i think it is the sea lvl. a stock gsr with i/e can run 9.9 in 8th mile on street tires. i run almost an 9.4 in 8th mile with my mods.

 

[turbo sol]

altitude is a big factor...and no you can't change the a/f mix to compensate...the oxygen mollecules in the air are a lot less up there( that's why you get light headed when you go into the mountains) and more dense closer to sea level b/c oxygen is heavy and drops. science class is soooo cool!