B18a Stalling Issues

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HackAbuse

...The One and Only...
Okay, so I picked up my project CRX last night. I'm not sure exactly what is done to it, but i know the engine has been rebuilt, and it idles like its got some pretty aggressive cams in it.

The car drives fine for 30-40 miles with a couple bogging issues, where it seems the car stalls for split seconds at a time every 5 miles or so. After awhile of driving, the "hiccuping" or stalling gets worse until it finally stalls.

After leaving it on the side of the road for twenty minutes i was able to get it to start again and drive it 5 miles to the next rest stop, and left it there because it seems to work better after I let it rest for awhile.

It's still sixty miles away from home, and I have to complete the rest of the sixty miles without it breaking down because there are no more rest stops or exits to give it a break.

Any ideas on whats wrong?
 
Hopefully I can get it another 60 miles without it stalling. If it stalls on the highway I'm SCREWED.
 
Well around 6:30 EST, I'll be leaving to give her another try at the 50 mile stretch home.

Hopefully she makes it without needing to be towed.

Hopefully she hasn't been towed already :(
 
why dont you try reading the codes manually. That is probably your problem

I'm a honda noob. I don't know you could read them without a code reader?

The CEL turned off after i stopped for awhile and never came back on, even when it stalled
 
I would explain it to you but I'm afraid you will not get the whole picture but I will try my best. However, If you plan on keeping the car a while, it will be wise to invest in a haynes, chilton, or a repair manual those books will help you very much as a newbie.

I am not sure exactly what year motor was installed in your ride, it is important to know if it is obd0 or obd1. I believe the 92 and 93 b18b are obd1 and this procedure should work pending that the shop that did your install converted to obd1 and used the correct harness.

Right next to the bottom of your glove compartment on the passenger side, reach underneath and pull out two wire plugs. One has three wires running to it and the other has two this is the one you will need.
Now find a piece of wire or paper clip and jump those two wires. turn your ignition to position II, that the position where all your dash lights light up without starting the car. Wait a couple of seconds, and the check engine light should start blinking.
You will need to monitor the blinking closely. There are two paterns to the blink, a quick pulsed blink and a slower pulsed blink. There is a pause between each patern and You will need to count these blinking paterns. For instance, if you get two slow blinks and three quick ones, the code is 23. Sometimes there are a set of quick blinks and no slow or the other way round.
I dont have my manual with me at the moment but if you writ the paters down I can desipher them for you or their might be thread on this website on how to perfor this procedure so I will definitely do a search.

Let me know how it goes.
 
I would explain it to you but I'm afraid you will not get the whole picture but I will try my best. However, If you plan on keeping the car a while, it will be wise to invest in a haynes, chilton, or a repair manual those books will help you very much as a newbie.

I am not sure exactly what year motor was installed in your ride, it is important to know if it is obd0 or obd1. I believe the 92 and 93 b18b are obd1 and this procedure should work pending that the shop that did your install converted to obd1 and used the correct harness.

Right next to the bottom of your glove compartment on the passenger side, reach underneath and pull out two wire plugs. One has three wires running to it and the other has two this is the one you will need.
Now find a piece of wire or paper clip and jump those two wires. turn your ignition to position II, that the position where all your dash lights light up without starting the car. Wait a couple of seconds, and the check engine light should start blinking.
You will need to monitor the blinking closely. There are two paterns to the blink, a quick pulsed blink and a slower pulsed blink. There is a pause between each patern and You will need to count these blinking paterns. For instance, if you get two slow blinks and three quick ones, the code is 23. Sometimes there are a set of quick blinks and no slow or the other way round.
I dont have my manual with me at the moment but if you writ the paters down I can desipher them for you or their might be thread on this website on how to perfor this procedure so I will definitely do a search.

Let me know how it goes.

The car came with two of those manuals :) I bought some water wetter, in case it is the headgasket is leaking coolant, so i can top off the coolant.

I was talking to a guy from Adv Auto Parts and he thinks it could be the Ignition Control Module shitting out when the car gets to a certain temp
 
In that case, when you get there besure to read the computer for any cels. Eventhough the check engine light is off, it will stor the old cels. So read them and find out what it is. As far as you ignition is concerned, your computer runs the ignition and if there is any problems, it will usually trip the computer.

Also, does it over heat before it stalls and how does the car behave before it dies. does it sound like it gasping for air or does it backfire.
 
The only thing it does is the car stalls for a split second every 10 miles to start, and increase in frequency until it finally dies.

Its basically like the car is shut off for about .25 of a second, and jerks because it loses power, then instantly comes back online.
 
Success!

Got her the rest of the 70 miles today!

I jumped the gun and didnt wait for her to reach full temperature, so she stalled 100 ft after I left. But after a good 10 minutes of chillin, we got her started again, and she made it all the way home in one piece!

At one point i thought she'd stall, but she pulled through in the end. Tomorrow I'll drive 'er to her new home for the next several months and get to work on fixin 'er up

Pics and Vids tomorrow.



It turns out I have a Haynes Service manual for the EF (CRX), and I have a second one for the Integra (the engine). So I will be studying the book to figure out what general maintenance I need to do. One thing I need to do is clean the IACV so it will idle normal (i think that's the problem with the idle)
 
Its 5 degrees out today, and the car wouldnt start, so i pulled the oil cap off the valve cover and found the the oil has the consistency of peanut butter :(

Okay, so maybe its more like really thick maple syrup.

So the car is currently stuck until the weather fares better.



I took off the shift boot because it was torn and old, and waht did i find?!
The ground!! lol. The shifter only takes upf like half the space of the stock one, and you can see right thru the chassis to the road beneath the car.It's cool
 
Well a little update, I cleaned the IACV, it was dirty as hell, but it didnt fix the idle...

On wednesday I will be checking the FITV, adjusting the idle screw, and possibly testing the TPS, if none of the other methods work.


Also on wednesday I will probably be adding a couple ground cables to the engine, i think a bad ground could be causing my stalling issue.



As soon as the small technicalities get fixed, I'll be tearing apart the head to install my 11.8:1 CR Pistons :)


Wish me luck
 
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