94 teg: blown b18b1 swapping b18a1

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UnluckyOne

New Member
Okay, so i have the motor sitting right next to my car which is ready to have the motor pulled out, but i can't get the damn axle out cause one ball joint is being stubborn. I have a couple of questions and need some opionions.

The new motor is a b18a1 from a 2nd gen teg. My car is a B1. My car is a 94 ls meaning its' running obd1, right?

Should I swap over all the sensors from old motor, including intake manifold and acc. The Starter, The knock and water, and everything else? Or is the A1 compatible with the sensors.

Whats a good way to get a stubborn ass Ball Joint to move? Also, is there any other technical things I'd run into while swapping motor?
 
I think all the sensors are the same, the only thing i know is that the a1's map sensor is not on the throttle body its on the firewall and those intake manifolds have a different cold start mechanism. Plus the new style intake manifold is probably better than the old style, i would just swap it to update the motor a little. Oh and for the ball joint HIT IT WITH A BIG ASS HAMMER;) Those joints suck, i smacked mine for about 30 minutes with a ball peen hammer before it broke loose. Use like a real heavy mallet just don't hit the ball joint, those suck to replace.
 
well. . . depending on if the a1 is obd1 or obd0 you may have to swap some things.
Also, if your b1 has a knock sensor, there is no place for one on the a1, so you would have to get creative
if the engine is obd0, then you will have to change the distributor, injectors, water temp sensor, and possibly alternator. (all of these things can be swapped from your b1 engine)
if it is obd1, then you should be ok.
if you are wondering how to tell the difference, the obd0 engine has round plugs at the distributor that are sort of clearish white, while the obd1 engines have gray square plugs.
all of the parts are interchangable between the engines, so if all you have is a bad block (thrown rod or something) then you have all the parts to make it work.
as far as the BJ, do what killer said.
 
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killercannible said:
Ls motors don't have knock sensors.
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You know, I thougt they didn;t but he said his did in his original post, so I didn;t wanna just jump out there are tell him that he didn't have one cuz I didn;t remember.

Reason I was alittle apprehensive was because when I did my ls/vtec I had to put a KS on my LS block, it was really cool, I welded a nut that was the same thread as the KS to a bolt and then put the bolt into the block, worked great! I was impressed, lol

Thanks for the correction
 
Isnt the b18b's cams slightly more aggressive? I remember something being better about them over the b18a's..
 
mac_24_seven said:
Isnt the b18b's cams slightly more aggressive? I remember something being better about them over the b18a's..
Click to expand...

No, the cam change was done back in 92, the 90-91 cams are weaker, but all the a1 and b1 cms are the same from 92-01

The only real difference between the a1 and the b1 is the intake manifold design, where they eliminated the "pgm-fi" logo.
1990-1991 b18a1 obd0 130hp
1992-1993 b18a1 obd1 140hp new cam design&changed to obd1 in 92
1994-1995 b18b1 obd1 140hp new intake design in 94
1996-2000 b18b1 obd2a 140hp new valve cover and changed to obd2a in 96
2001 b18b1 obd2b 140hp changed to obd2b
 
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Been cold out so I just started working on it again...

So if my car has the PGMFI logo on the intake manifold, then my motor is obviously the 130 hp.

I have already swapped over the intake manifolds, where you were right, the 94 doesn't have the PGMFI.

Okay so now I have a couple more questions...
Im going to use the b1 alternator, starter, and sensors. Why sparkplugs and distrubitor sould I use?

How yesterday went: Finally got the lower ball joint off. Pulled the last axle out. Tried to pull the motor out, then realized that integras have an AC mount. Took that off, a pulled the motor out. Set it on the ground...

Unfortunately, I accidentally punctered an AC line :( that sucks, cuase I like AC...Anyone wanna explain why taking out the AC is a "power gain" and do you think its worth the 40 extra pounds?
 
i mean losing the extra 40 lbs silly me...

also, the person before me Xthreaded the ball joints...ergh...nothings ever easy is it...

i have 300 dollars lol, anything that will get me a decent power gain?
 
use the b1 dizzy off your old engine
plug wires really don't matter cuz they are the same, use whatever are newer or get new ones
 
as far as a/c goes, you can lose that 40 lbs, which is really like 20 lbs, and gain about 2 horsepower when it's not in use, but if you just leave it on the car and repair your line, then it's really only about a 1-2hp loss, provided you don't have your a/c on when you go to run someone, then it's like a 15hp loss.
 
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