Am i wasting my time with that engine?

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B

bistec

Project EH23
Hi, i've finally decided to rebuild my old z6 for turbo. Not looking for crazy number ( arround 225-250 hp).

1- I wanted to know based on the pics if i'm wasting my time. The engine has 154000 miles ( i know it doesn't matter if your going to re build it) but what you guys think?

2- Also what type , brand of internal would you go with ( will be using the greddy bolt-on kit TD04H-15G 8cm2 ). I know that with that kit i can keep the stock internal, but in case later i want more power i don't want to have to open the block again. Any suggestion on setup will be great .

Does anyone know a machine shop in the boston Massachusetts area where i can send my block and head to be cleaned , resurfaced, bored , honed and a valve job ? If not any trusted shop will be great Thanks.:)

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Thanks for your answers. They're is one point that i didn't understand:
Blanco said:
"Something to keep in mind is that forged rods expand just like forged pistons, so make sure you ask whoever you do buy your rods from what the bearing clearance expansion is likely to be. I've seen that it's generally around .0002" at operating temperature"
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. I'll try the yellow pages. Thanks again!
 
Blanco said:
Ok, say you want a .0015" oil clearance. You Plastigage to find out what bearings you need to reach that clerance. Once your engine is at operating temperature that .0015" will increase to, say, .0017" (for discussion's sake) with forged rods where your clearance would stay at .0015" with stock rods. That would actually be a really good clearance to use for the rods because it's so middle of the road. That'll give you nice reliabilty at start up and then expand to wider clearance that will allow more oil in to create a combustion cushion of sorts (for lack of a better way of putting it) on the power stroke. Blueprinting is just figuring out all of the clearances you want to use ahead of time.
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Great info! Thanks a lot!:)
 
Blanco said:
You're very welcome. Good luck with your project. :thumbsup:

Remember to ask the company buy from and don't just take my .0002" figure for gospel. :)
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I'will. Thanks again! Ohhh another question, will the greddy turbo kit that i'm planning to use be able to boost up to 250 hp?
 
Blanco said:
You might be able to hit 250hp with it but I'm pretty sure you won't be hitting 250whp with it.
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That would not be that bad for a first turbo build. What would be an ideal compression? Should i get the cylinder bored to 0.10 or 0.20 I know you've already gave me a lot of advices and i really appreciate it . As i've said it's my first turbo built and i hope with your helps to do it right the first time. I've done a lot of reading but will still need help and advice so sorry if i ask stupid questions . Thanks!:thumbsup:
 
Blanco said:
My turbo goal is pretty similar to yours and I'm running 9.5:1, .020" over-bore, and Nippon Racing Pistons. If you haven't already, go ahead and take a look at my build in the Auto Multi-Media section "A Few Pics Of My Build".
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Yes i did and i might do the same setup as yours except for the piston and rods (cp and TunerToys as you said). Thanks!
 
Wow the CP pistons are realy expensive. Any other good and less expensive substitutions ?
SRP look cheaper than CP! But quality?
 
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Ok, thanks!:thumbsup:
Blanco said:
Forged internals aren't cheap.

You can use any brand you want but know that you'll have a lot more piston slap on cold start up. CP pistons contain the most silica of forged pistons so they expand the least. This allows you to set a tighter piston/wall clearance when boring and honing. Whatever pistons you get will come with a spec sheet telling you (and your machinist) what the P/W clearance needs to be. Your machinist will mic the pistons, add the P/W clearance, subtract the thickness of the hone, and over-bore the cylinder by that much. Then when the hone is done your P/W clearance will be built-in perfect.
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Blanco said:
Your goal isn't really ambitious and a stock Z6 can handle up to 250whp with a great tune. It's pretty common to see a stock Z6 near 200whp. I feel that building the engine up a little puts less strain on the engine to make the same power because you don't have to push the boost as high.
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Arent revs harder on a motor than boost?
 
I called the machine shop and they're asking $800 for honing ,boring, decking, cleaning and head rebuilding. Does is sounds right or good?

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Blanco said:
Hmm. Let's see...

Boring/honing = $200
Cleaning = $50-100 (depending on what type of cleaning)
Block deck = $50
Head mill/resurface = $50

That's $350-400 minus the head rebuild. What all are you having done to the head? That should include a valve job at the very least.
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Yes that's the quote with valve job! But doesn't include titanium retainer or dual springs valves ( do i really realy need to do that?) Can't i just go stock valve and spring ?

That's was the price on the phone, they said if i bring the engine they might do it for less.:confused:
 
Thanks for the advice :thumbsup: . The block is now 100% bare. I'll drop it with head tomorrow morning. They said that i'll get them back sometime next week. But i have some questions.

1-Shouldn't i get the internal and send to them with the block, not for them to put them in but to make sure that size ,clearance... are respected?

2- I know i've said that i would go with cp pistons and TT rods but just wanted to know what you think about this eBay Motors: D16 Civic CRX Si Turbo Engine Kit Pistons Rods Gasket (item 180106570398 end time Apr-19-07 13:51:41 PDT) ?

3- I wanted to keep the stock comp ratio (9:5:1) or go 9:0:1 but i can't find any forged piston with those comp ratio.
a- Is 9:5:1 or 9:0:1 a good idea?
b- Where can i get those pistons?

Thanks!
 
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