EJ8 SiRII swap

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turbodeigo

New Member
ok so before i get a hundred people telling me to stay in my obd vintage, and not offering a reason why, please allow me to say the following:

first of all, i cant afford a GSR, ITR, or CTR swap. secondly, i cant even find an OBD2 B16 swap. and finally, i like the idea of being able to tune an OBD1 ECU "easily". so that been said, here is my scenario and my question(s):

car: 1996 Civic EX, D16Y8, 5 speed, OBD2a

swap i can afford and find easily: '92-'95 B16A SirII, OBD1

now, aside from the "normal" swap stuff(axles, L bracket, etc), what else is involved in running said OBD1 motor in my chassis? what ECU would be utilized? provided the new motor came with a clean harness, what would need to be cut? could an OBD2a to OBD1 conversion harness be used to save myself from cutting stuff?

yes i know its a lot of newbie questions. yes i have searched, but cant get a single straight answer. im open to advice, but only from people who have done this swap. if your gonna say "stay in your own obd vintage", explain why(NOT "your gonna run into problems". what kind of problems?). and yes, i know, B18C has more torque, as is faster, and is a better place to start. keep in mind ALL of my shopping will be done via telephone or internet, so i cant take advantage of your buddies hookup on a GSR swap for $2K unless he wants to crate it up.

thanks in advance
 
ok so before i get a hundred people telling me to stay in my obd vintage, and not offering a reason why, please allow me to say the following:

first of all, i cant afford a GSR, ITR, or CTR swap. secondly, i cant even find an OBD2 B16 swap. and finally, i like the idea of being able to tune an OBD1 ECU "easily". so that been said, here is my scenario and my question(s):

car: 1996 Civic EX, D16Y8, 5 speed, OBD2a

swap i can afford and find easily: '92-'95 B16A SirII, OBD1

now, aside from the "normal" swap stuff(axles, L bracket, etc), what else is involved in running said OBD1 motor in my chassis? what ECU would be utilized? provided the new motor came with a clean harness, what would need to be cut? could an OBD2a to OBD1 conversion harness be used to save myself from cutting stuff?

yes i know its a lot of newbie questions. yes i have searched, but cant get a single straight answer. im open to advice, but only from people who have done this swap. if your gonna say "stay in your own obd vintage", explain why(NOT "your gonna run into problems". what kind of problems?). and yes, i know, B18C has more torque, as is faster, and is a better place to start. keep in mind ALL of my shopping will be done via telephone or internet, so i cant take advantage of your buddies hookup on a GSR swap for $2K unless he wants to crate it up.

thanks in advance

You would need the OBD2a to ODB1 jumper harness and the OBD1 ecu. However you are going to have to use your old engine harness. You could either buy obd2 b series accessories such as the injectors, distributor, and alternator to avoid cutting up your harness. Or you can use the stuff that comes on your swap and cut the obd1 plugs off the donor harness and splice and solder them to the one you have now. It would be easier for someone like you to just get obd2 accessories and make it plug and play. You definetly should go OBD1 though because it doesnt utilize the secondary o2 sensor and CAS. The OBD2 computer has many more codes it can throw for bull shit reasons and is worthless for tuning. Hope this helps some. ;)
 
if you can afford the sir 11 then why would you not get the b18b in the same obd and spend the extra money on i/h/e............more tq, easy to make more hp, and not bad swap to turbo
 
well i was just say that most of us are not made of money so the amount of money your gonna spend doing it the way you want is going to be way above that of just building a b18b monster or even going ls/vtec right off the start
 
if you can afford the sir 11 then why would you not get the b18b in the same obd and spend the extra money on i/h/e............more tq, easy to make more hp, and not bad swap to turbo
well to be honest, i just prefer a VTEC motor. for my style of driving, the extra 30hp makes up for the 11ft/lb drop. also, to me the VTEC motor gives me more options in the future. and to be clear, i have allotted extra cash for i/h/e/udp/ecu
 
well in no way is this meant as me being a amart ass but hell if you got the extra money to b.p a b18b bottom end and have the extra money for h/i/e and you want vtec then why not go gsr of hell even k
 
Im getting b16a and just saving for ls block. Bullet proof it and install. ;)

That is the way to go. Because if you want to do the ls/vtec you need the vtec head and if you want it to be quick at all you need the vtec transmission. So people know how to do things in the right order. Go you! Build up an ls block in your spare time. I would also spring a couple extra bucks to get the lsd transmission with your swap its worth the money. Dont listhen to the other people that posted on this thread, you know what you are doing.
 
my friend built his ls block for like 2gs maybe 3 but it can handle 20psi
 
dont get me wrong, i like the idea of an ls/vtec, or crvtec, there just arent any local machinists that i trust enough to help me with the build.

as for GSR or k swap, i dont have the money to do it the way i would like. im looking at $2500 average for B16 SiRII with LSD trans, as opposed to $3500 average for GSR swap with LSD trans. call me crazy, but i think that extra thousand could be well spent elsewhere(timing set, oil/water pumps, clutch kit, flywheel, etc. preventative stuff that should be done while the engine is out), and still leave change for a tune-up.

and RSX swaps? $4K just to start it off.

i guess i should have mentioned, my powertrain budget is hovering around $4K total, including EVERYTHING to make it turn-key

turbo is at least a year away, and i dont want a sucky LS motor for a year when i can afford a vtec motor off the bat.
 
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then maybe you should get a b16a. Dirve that for a bit while you save. You can turbo a b16 and get decent power off it with stock internals. It wont be as reliable but it will run. Get pistons and rods/rodbolts and you are all set. I baught my b16a(JDM) for $2200 shipped.
 
well in no way is this meant as me being a amart ass but hell if you got the extra money to b.p a b18b bottom end and have the extra money for h/i/e and you want vtec then why not go gsr of hell even k
btw: not trying to be an ass here either, lol, but if that was directed at me, check the screen names before typing. I have no intention of buying an LS block
 
you could buy a b16a cheap and save up for an ls block, just on the side. Just tinker with it. save some money....BUILD IT
 
ok to clear up the confusion and save me from quoting every other post from here on out, im trying to make a reasonable street car that has enough grunt to get out of its own way. notice, im starting with the fattest of the fat ones, a loaded ex, and it has a moonroof lol. yes, i could have bought an SI and saved myself a lot of time and effort, but i got an incredible deal on this car. it needed minor bodywork, and the trans is bad(no 2nd gear), but had zero rust, an immaculate interior, and everything(minus trans) works flawlessy. no mods other than power folding mirrors and a thermal rear section. "how cheap?", you ask? $500 for the chassis, body panels cost me $300, paint was $60, and labor was free(good friend is a body man. i fixed a few computers and set up a network at his office, i get free labor and parts at cost). on top of that, i sold the rear-section and mirrors for $500 to some local kid who had to have them, plus he gave me his existing OEM parts. so i have roughly $400 invested in a REALLY clean car, complete with clean title, that just needs a trans now.

now i step down from my soap box.

my total for this job was $4500. i sold the mirrors and rear section yesterday, so i have roughly $4K left for powertrain. the chassis needs absolutely nothing. i just want an easy swap i can do in a day or two, that leaves room for improvement but doesnt need to be turbo'd off the bat. yes i can buy an LS swap off ebay for $1500, and a turbo kit off ebay for another $1200 and be at the same point as far as cash goes, but i simply dont trust that kind of stuff on ebay. sure i'll take some cheap konis or an intake from ebay, but thats about it.

so with this long drawn out scenario i have given you all, lol, could someone provide me with a list of what parts i will need to swap in an OBD1 B16A? no need to get too far into detail on wiring diagrams and such, just a simple parts list.

thanks again for all the replies
 
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good man! All you need to do(wiring) is pin and run a knock sensor from the p30 computer. it is pin D3 on the computer. I will see if i can find a diagram somewhere. other than that you just need to extend the wires. For parts, you will need mounts, axels, shift linkage, radiator hoses(maybe), and you might need to extend your exhaust. It may sound like alot but thats nothing when ur swaping a motor. I would suggest getting ur motor from Jdmsource.ca - JDM Engines and Transmissions - JDM Honda Engine & transmissions - JDM Nissan Engines - JDM Mitsubishi Engines - JDM Subaru Parts I got mine shipped for 2200. They steam clean it, compression test it. leak test and take detailed pictures of it. It came with ecu, axels, shift linkage and everything I need for a complete swap. check mine out.
 

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