F20B Build

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CD7F20B

New Member
Hey All,

New to this forum, but not new to Hondas. I have a JDM F20B in my 97 Accord Coupe. Problem is, I want to build it, but I can't seem to find the internal specs anywhere. Trying to find this info without taking it apart and measuring myself - I don't have a garage right now and its my DD.

Anyone know where to get a shop manual to answer all these questions? For shop/service/repair manual - the stock vehicle is a JDM 98-99 CF4 Accord SiR-T/Torneo. Otherwise, this is the info I'm looking for - any help is greatly appreciated.

Specs for all head internals. Rocker arms, springs, camshaft, valves, retainers.
Specs for block internals. Rods, crank.
Max tolerances for boring.

For those curious - stock bore/stroke is 85mm/88mm with 11.0 compression.
See link below for full engine specs.

What I'm hoping to do is find a way to bore and stroke without losing my high revving ability. haven't decided if final product will be turbo or NA, but that is really just a question for the pistons. displacement is your friend either way. LOL.

Any feedback on bore and stroke possibilities would be great too. Since it is an iron F-block - would I need to sleeve... or only if I go big boost?

Also... I see a lot of silly arguments about the power of an F20B out there.

Check out the link from Honda Japan:
–¼ŽÔƒJƒ^ƒƒO

Here is the Google translation if you prefer:
Translated version of http://www.honda.co.jp/HOT/ModelData/accord/98ac-k-709/shogen.html
 
The F20B is a hell of a platform to build on. One of my buddies who works at a shop cranked out 187whp with all stock internals through the stock header.

You don't need to resleeve on the iron sleeve- but I don't know if it's iron or FRM. I thought that it wasFRM, but I could be wrong.
 
they are iron

you have a destroked h22 with the best head for that engine series.

you can use h series pumps and belts preferably type S

buy yourself a set of forged rods and pistons in the 10:1 to 10.5:1range [flat top] so you can boost at a later date.

i am planning of buying the long block along with a b>h/f plate
Bisimoto Race Engineering - H/F2B adapter


to put in my 99hb
 
they are iron

you have a destroked h22 with the best head for that engine series.

you can use h series pumps and belts preferably type S

buy yourself a set of forged rods and pistons in the 10:1 to 10.5:1range [flat top] so you can boost at a later date.

i am planning of buying the long block along with a b>h/f plate
Bisimoto Race Engineering - H/F2B adapter


to put in my 99hb

Yeah, my setup is the stock PGM-FI intake manifold (which I have heard in various places is as good or better than the skunk2), AEM short ram, stock header from 98 prelude. Have spare water pump and t-belt from 98 'lude for replacements when necessary. I am running the stock OBD2B ECU right now for CA smog reasons - which I can explain if anyone wants to hear - but I am planning to go with OBD1 conversion and tune once I get her built!!
 
it's in its 'natural state' right now. that's how i got it reffed in CA. but yeah... I feel that one on the ECU. I'm hoping I can make it go crazy with tuning, but still be able to run on the stock obd2b ecu. a tuner i know said i could even use the original obd2a for smog, though I wouldn't have any vtec while it was in.

btw... I think I just found an awesome link for h-series and f20b engine internals specs:
https://hondaswap.com/parts-sale-trade-wanted/wtb-single-piston-rod-h22-92-97-a-67524/
 
I know this is an old thread but I am doing a similar swap right now and have not been able to find the info I need.

I have a 1997 Accord EX. I just ordered an F20b M/T engine with LSD. I want to know how you used the OBD2b F20b ecu in your 1997 Accord. Please explain in detail what you had to do. Please get back to me because I am trying to decide whether or not to go OBD1 chipped p28 and I am on a time crunch! Thanks in advance.
 
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depending on where you are located... obd1 is almost definitely a better choice - I think you may have to swap out the dizzy and change the injector plugs in the wiring harness, in addition to getting a conversion harness. for obd2b, you just get a conversion harness from rywire.com

obd2b (at least in the jdm ecu) is japan only, so no emissions control support at all... if you have a scanner you will no what i am talking about. so the issue is really more about what you can get away with smogwise.
 
could you please explain what you had to do to run obd2b in your obd2a accord? Did you have to add wires to your IAT and FITV since they are both in one on the f20b? Basically did you run the PCB or PCD ecu? how did you wire the car to accept this ecu? Does it have immobilizer? Does it have a gas tank pressure sensor? I am familiar with swaps and wiring so please explain in the most detail you can. Thanks
 
could you please explain what you had to do to run obd2b in your obd2a accord? Did you have to add wires to your IAT and FITV since they are both in one on the f20b? Basically did you run the PCB or PCD ecu? how did you wire the car to accept this ecu? Does it have immobilizer? Does it have a gas tank pressure sensor? I am familiar with swaps and wiring so please explain in the most detail you can. Thanks

Someone else did wiring for me. The swap should come with appropriate engine wiring harness for the F20B, which came stock with a PCB ECU... you may need to wire the engine harness into the ECU harness in the cabin in cases where wires don't match up perfectly with your EX stock wiring. I used PCB, and my understanding is you just plug the PCB ECU into the rywire custom conversion harness, and then you plug the conversion harness into the ECU harness for the obd2a ECU. Beyond that, the guy who did the wiring for me said any questions and he just called rywire and they were able to help him out.

No added wires as far as I know. No immobilizer. I don't know about the gas tank pressure sensor. Also don't know how else I can help... I don't actually have the car anymore. Had to sell the project in favor of school.
 
CD7F20B, are you 100% sure that the f20b's ecu is not equipped with an immobilizer. Im trying to decide to swap a stock f20b in my 97 cord lx, or just build up a f22a a little. just cant decide cause i dont want to mess with the f20b if its got an immobilizer. any response much appreciated.
 
This thread is almost three years old! Please check your dates before posting, and if you have a question, start your own thread :)
 
opps. im new at this my bad. i dont even know how to start my own thread honestly. but thanks for the heads up. ill stop adding to this thread after this message
 
Its not a problem at all, just making you aware of that. To create a new thread find a subforum that suits your question and click "new thread" its towards the upper left.
 
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