Putting a teg b16a/turbo into a 93 civic/1.5, I need help, my first honda/swap!!!

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b dub

New Member
my first post.:) lets get to it.

what i have:
* a perfect 93 civic EX with a jdm 1.5 sohc vtec and a turbo with a lot of goodies. the engine is blown.

* a 1990 integra gs with an SIR b16a first gen. the car is junk, the engine runs great. it has a cable trans, and a PR3 ecu. it looks like it has been swapped.

* no knowledge or experience with hondas. :(


my first question:
ive read its best to set the car up OBD1, and you can do that with a PR3 ecu. is it best to set the civic up for OBD1? isnt the integra PR3 obd0?

second:
the b16, the b16 engine harness, the b16 distributor, the b16 ecu all work. can i install them in the civic, then plug into the civic car harness? meaning is it all swapable?

im very serious about this. i have money, time, and every tool imaginable at my disposal, as well as a machine shop and a junkyard. unfortunately no b series hydraulic transmissions though.

help out a new honda owner!!
 
in a word, NO
you are looking at a bit of work and some money to get that engine into the civic.
1) You need a mount kit with a cable to hydro convesion kit (hasport egb1 kit)
2) a p30 or chipped p28 ecu to run the car in obd1 (or a jumper harness if you wanna go obd0)
3) a b16 obd1 distributor (or cut a leg off an integra distributor)

Basically you can't just drop the engine into the civic, and it definately will not plug in, that ecu also will not plug in and you are right, it is better to set up with obd1, use your old engine harness and just swap the distributor and injectors to obd1. use the linkage that is on the integra tranny, as well as the integra axles

Also, since you have the integra, if the civic has drum brakes in the back, you can take the rear trailing arms off the integra and swap them onto the civic and have rear disc brakes. Some people recommend that you change the proportioning valve, but i feel that you dont need to, just make sure to keep the e-brake cables and the brake hoses off the integra, as you will need them on the civic.

I actually did this setup for my first swap back in '94 in my '92 hatchback, although there wasn't as much information on it back then
 
very well, im glad you have experience with this.

* so the hasport mounts mean ill have to convert the trans to hydraulic? what does that entail, swapping over the slave cylinder, etc.?

*how do i go about "cutting a leg" off the old distributor?

* where do i send out the P28 to get chipped? or is it similar to a mail order tune, where you tell them what combo you have, then they send you a rewriteable chip?

thats great to know about the brakes, too.
 
yes, you have to cnvert the trans to hydraulic, the kit comes with a bracket that repositions the stock slave cylinder and instructions on how to attach it to the transmission and to the clutch actuator thingy. The instructions are pretty clear, you have to drill 1 hole, the rest is bolt on.

You don't cut a leg off your old distributor, what you do is if you can't get ahold of a b16 distributor you get a 1992-1995 integra LS/GS/RS distributor (b18a or b18b engine) and you cut the lower right side leg off of it so that it will clear the vtec solenoid on your b16 engine. The best thing to do is to use an actual b16 distributor tho because it will have all the legs in the right place so you can bolt it correctly to the engine.

as far as a chipped p28 ecu's, Im not sure where to get because I never did anything like that, but if you post in the electronics/ecu secton of the forums someone will let you know where to get one Im pretty sure you send it to someone and tell them what you are running. I would however recommend an obd1 p30 ecu tho because it will be for that engine.
 
awesome, if i can find a B16 distributor at the salvage yard, what year does it need to be for it to be 0BD1? 92 and up?

thanks for the help welfare ive got a good head start on this now.

can you believe i got a PERFECT coupe with a ton of boltons (rims, tires, tint, springs, system, turbo timer, tach, boost/fuel pressure gauge/pillar, jap spec dash, shifter, mitsubishi turbo, full exhaust, greddy blow off valve, msd everything, k&n, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, fuel lines, etc.,) for free? then i got the B16 for free as well. thats why im so dead set on this particular swap, even if its not recommended. my goal is to everything running with all accesories for under a grand. then however much for a good tune. :)
 
um, at the junkyard, the only thing that you will find a distributor that will bolt up correctly will be a 92-93 integra gsr (dohc vtec b17a) or a 95 del sol vtec (dohc vtec b16a3 or b16a2) both of these cars are quite hard to find in the junkyard with the engine still in them.
I have heard it both ways that you may be able to use a distributor from an integra 94-95 gsr (dohc vtec) but I am not 100% sure if it will bolt up, I assume it will, but I can't be sure. If you do get one from an integra and it does work, please let me know for future refrence.
Another thing would be if you do find the del-sol or 92-92 integra with the dohc vtec engine, check and see if it still has the ecu, you can use that to run your engine.
Just make sure the engine is a dohc VTEC if it is just a dohc (b18a1 or b18b1) engine the distributor will NOT bolt up
 
you can get the dizzy new at a parts house, since its gonna be obd1 it wont be hard to find. just tell them you need one for a 95 delsol vtec dohc. then its new and you dont have to worry about getting fucked.

get an obd1 ecu, you can get them already chipped offline. and youll also need the 4wire o2 sensor for obd1 hondas.
 
any good performance/tuning shop should be able to do it, but obd0 ecu's arent really good for tuning, if you want it tuned then go obd1, youll be much happier with it. if your gonna upgrade then upgrade, theres more options with obd1 and its easier to tune
 
one more thing: the P28 is set to run a sohc 1.5, will it be able to start and run the B16 down the highway to a dyno? ill be taking it VERY easy of course, with no rpm or heavy acceleration.
 
The p28 will run the car just fine, but you have to get it chipped before you take it to a dyno, chipping the ecu is not a 5 minute walk-in job unless the place you go just does a trade.
If you are going to have it chipped then I suggest bringing the ecu somewhere now so that it will be ready when you get done with the swap.
 
yeah thats what i meant, he said that he may convert the car to obd0 or convert the motor to obd1, never made a conclusion as to which way he is going.
 
OoO, my bad, I'm not sure what way he is going to go, but hopefully he will listen to us and just go obd1, it's the best route anyway without going standalone, which he won't need for that anyway.
Obd1 had so many benefits over obd0 and is so much easier to get parts for etc. etc. Plus the car is obd1 so it just would end up costing more to make it obd0.
 
The p28 will run the car just fine, but you have to get it chipped before you take it to a dyno, chipping the ecu is not a 5 minute walk-in job unless the place you go just does a trade.
If you are going to have it chipped then I suggest bringing the ecu somewhere now so that it will be ready when you get done with the swap.
thanks again for the help man, as well as everybody else. i think i will take everyones advise and set it to run OBD1. now im off to start a thread in the electronics section...
 
cool, post back if you run into trouble with the swap, we are all here to help :)
 
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