need help with 2000 civic si

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bpounds

New Member
I have a 2000 Civic Si (B16A2). I had an Edelbrock turbo added about 7 months ago. It only ran good for about a month. But now, it jerks a lot when my speed idles at a certain speed (for example - going 55 mph in 5th gear for about ten seconds). It only drives good when I am accelerating to a higher speed. This morning my car completely cut off while approaching a stop sign, but it cranked right up. Sometimes, the car will not even accelerate when I am pushing the gas pedal (it's like it bogs down). I have to put it in neutral, then rev it to about 5,000 RPMs and then put it in gear to go. It's really weird.

Another problem that comes and goes is that my car is sooooo slow when accelerating from a complete stop. It will only go 5 to 10 mph for about 5 or so seconds. If I am going uphill, it almost will not make it. People always swerve around me wondering why a suped up car is driving like a grandma. It may do it one day, and then the next, it drives fine.

Normally, my car runs great on the way to work, but I have to pray to make it home everyday. That's when I have the most problems.

Anyway, the guys who put it on checked the timing and the wires for the ECU and piggy back, but they said nothing is wrong with that. They said I should try a new map sensor (but they can't guarantee it will work). They said it could also be my ECU going out.

Does anyone have any idea what it could be? All answers would be greatly appreciated.

Oh, also I have been emailing a technician at Edelbrock. I sent him pictures of the ECU and piggy back; he said it was fine. The only thing he could come up with is that I need my O2 sensors replaced to take the car out of "home limp mode."?? (the engine check light is on). Please help!!!


And some more background info is that I had a burnt valve back in November 06. Since the engine was going to have to be rebuilt anyway, I decided to add the turbo. So, low compression pistons and Skunk 2 valves were added. Also, they put on a new Spec 2 clutch. (hope this info helps).
 
Did you prepare your motor before you threw the turbo on. B16 aren't really good for boost. You may have some internal damage. The stock b16 holds I think safely around 6-10lbs of boost, not to sure on the numbers, but it's not high. I hope you motor isn't shot. When you put force induction on your car it's going to take alot more attention then a n/a car. That's why I swapped an H22 into my 94 Accord which also had 278,000 miles on it. Boost wouldn't have lasted long.
 
First, go find your local dinky auto parts dealer like autozone, one with a tester. Your OBD2, so you just plug in a scan tool. Tell us what codes u have.

Second, did you upgrade the fuel system at all? If you didnt replace your injectors, i'd bet money you fried them running too high of a duty cycle. That throws you into an error mode. Limp home mode isnt the only half honda death you can have. Different errors have different rev limits and symptoms. Like if you chipped your ecu, maybe the solder job sucked and it's getting a poor signal, so it uses fixed fuel maps that are set rich and safe. Check that actually, if you did, because I had that problem :rolleyes:, and when the temperature changed enough, it would cause it to expand and contract i guess, causing the fuel maps to change from good to crap, on the fly. twas enough. something that would make you think your ecu is dying. I'd check injectors, and mmmmaybe fuel pump, but that's a long shot from what your saying is happening. Never hurts to do a compression check.

goood luck! let us know
 
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Did you prepare your motor before you threw the turbo on. B16 aren't really good for boost. You may have some internal damage. The stock b16 holds I think safely around 6-10lbs of boost, not to sure on the numbers, but it's not high. I hope you motor isn't shot. When you put force induction on your car it's going to take alot more attention then a n/a car. That's why I swapped an H22 into my 94 Accord which also had 278,000 miles on it. Boost wouldn't have lasted long.

going on what he said..

if you dont have kickass datalogging setup, get urself a stethescope and listen to see if you have any weird knocks or noises comming from your block. if you do have a datalogging or similar, look for knock retard. if you have knock, it's in the block :). if a compression check is ok, the head is fine, but if you've got noises from the block, possibly bearing damage, or rod bolts, but i'm doubting this if you can still drive it normally some of the time.
 
They ran a dianostics on it last week and they said the only thing it shows is that the O2 sensors need to be replaced. I think I will take it to O'reilly or Advance Auto Parts and see if they say the same thing. I will get the actual codes and post them tomorrow.

Btw, here is the list of parts that were put on my car in November when the engine was rebuilt with a turbo:

-ring set
-main bearings
-washer st
-rod bearing set
-valve gasket
-cam seal
-crank seal
-rear main seal
-thermostat
-drive belt
-drive belt
-Spec stage II clutch
-drive belt
-Skunk II valves
-head gasket
-oil and coolant
-drive axles
-Edelbrock turbo kit
-piston kit turbo (set of 4)
-turbo timer

(I can't find page 2 of my receipt...there were a few more things). I will get it and post them as well.

Here is the info on the turbo taken directly from the Edelbrock website:

PERFORMER X STREET LEGAL TURBO KITS
HONDA/ACURA STREET LEGAL TURBO KITS
Street legal and easy to install, these kits include everything you need to give your car turbocharged performance. No additional tuning is required when used on otherwise stock engines. The Garrett turbo comes preassembled as one unit with a Ni-resist cast exhaust manifold and elbow, inlet oil and water lines for the simplest possible installation. The Garrett ball bearing turbo spools up fast, works with pump gas and still makes over 60% more power than stock. The Edelbrock exhaust manifold and elbow are designed for maximum flow at high velocity.
1x1.gif
1500.jpg


PERFORMER X STREET LEGAL TURBO KITS INCLUDE:
  • Garrett ball bearing Turbo preassembled with exhaust manifold and elbow, including coolant and oil lines.
  • A new intake manifold preassembled with secondary fuel rail and four additional injectors
  • Preassembled Russell fuel and oil lines with adapters
  • Large bar and plate style intercooler with TIG welded cast aluminum end tanks.
  • Edelbrock boost gauge by Auto Meter with A-pillar mount pod
  • Ceramic coated Turbo piping and high flow air filter
  • O-ring sealed compressor inlet/outlet pipe flanges
  • All gaskets, adapters and instructions
  • TiAL blow-off valve
The above info was take from: Edelbrock.com | Edelbrock Sport Compact - TURBOS - Performer X.
 
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Here is page two of the receipt of parts:

-timing belt
-intake and exhaust gasket seals
-oil pan gasket
-tube seals

_________________________________________________

I took it back to the shop today to run another diagnostics. Today, it did show different codes than last time. There were three codes:

1. P0108 (map circuit high input)
2. P0122 (TP sensor (A) voltage low)
3. P1121 (TP sensor signal lower than expected)

He said if I take it back to him next week, he can check the voltage to see if the TP sensor is bad....but, if it comes back with good voltage, he said it would have to be a bad ECU.

Does that sound correct?
 
As long as it doesn't bother anyone, I would like to keep it here because I acutally posted the same thread in the correct forum the other day when you alerted me. And so far, I have gotten the most help from the people on this forum. I finally got my first response tonight on the thread that is in the correct forum. So far, many people have responded in this forum. :) It's kind of funny how that happened, but I'm ok with it. Thanks though.
 
As far as I know, you can't be boosting more than 7psi without upgrading your MAP sensor. Injectors and a tune are what you need.
 
+another for injectors. not listed in your parts.

A tune is always necessary, and injectors are 99% necessary (if your running like 2lbs, u might be able to get away w/ it). My stock injectors in my B16 are already pushing 90% duty cycle, N/A w/ stock internals. It's a JDM '95 B16, what I have.

as far as the map sensor, according to hondata, you can run up to 11.2lbs of boost on a stock map, but they recommend only going to ~10.

lol i just happened to stumble on this post in an unrelated search on google for popular piston brands for my motor...
 
oop sorry, i see injectors now. they came w/ the intake mani. w0rd. well. idk. anybody remember how to test them? i think it's resistance u look at. maybe they were cheapy and burnt out? i'd still say tune it. mmmaybe get new injectors. 1up for RC brand injectors
 
i also have a 00 si with a jdm b16, ctr pistons,golden eagle rods,crower valve springs/retaners,aem cam gears,greddy timming belt,metal head gasket,aem fuel rail,aem intake,apexi exhaust,underdrive pully..
---my car was doing the same shit as yours..i replaced my o2 sensor and now it runs good...so def.. replace your o2 sensor.....$91 at autozone....go get one...it will prolly solve your problem..mines not turbo though...but it solved my problem, -good luck-
 
i also have a 00 si with a jdm b16, ctr pistons,golden eagle rods,crower valve springs/retaners,aem cam gears,greddy timming belt,metal head gasket,aem fuel rail,aem intake,apexi exhaust,underdrive pully..
---my car was doing the same shit as yours..i replaced my o2 sensor and now it runs good...so def.. replace your o2 sensor.....$91 at autozone....go get one...it will prolly solve your problem..mines not turbo though...but it solved my problem, -good luck-

no thread jack intended...

you didnt get cams while you where in there? stockers?
 
Hopefully I'll find out tomorrow. I am going back to the shop tomorrow to test the TP sensor. I'll keep you guys posted. Btw, thanks for everyone's input. I appreciate all the help I can get at this point.
 
Well, they were backed up today and were not able to test it. It will probably get done Thursday.
 
no thread jack intended...

you didnt get cams while you where in there? stockers?


i have no more $$$$$$ my buddy has crower stage 2 cams he will sell me for 200.. i just have to get 200 bucks..money is tight right now.. but i need them bad...:eek: my stock cams are killing me!
 
ok. Here's the latest news. They checked the TP sensor today. Some wires were loose, so they soddered them back together. My check engine light is still on; they said I still need a new MAP sensor. They suggested I buy a stock one from Honda, but isn't there a performance I should get instead that can handle 12-14 psi?
 
Motorola makes MAP sensors. Tiny little buggers too... I want to say they're 2.5 bar? I'll have to look it up and get right back to you. Looks like I was right. Told it will work up to 22psi.
 
I just read online about an Apexi 3-Bar Map Sensor. Does anyone know much about this? Would it be better than a stock Map sensor?

And would I have to do anything special (like tuning, etc) or is it just plug and play?


Btw, where can I find the moto sensors that you are talking about (up to 22 psi)?
 
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