Swap will not stay on and CODES!!!

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smokey345

SwAp CrAzY
I just started my swap and it will not stay on. I am throwing code 3, 10, and 14. Plus the MAP sensor is not connected. The engine is a b18a in a 89 hatchback. Get back to me ASAP with some technical help. i WOULD LOVE TO JUST GET THE CAR TO IDLE. The car needs gas in order to stay on. Tell me what you think the problem might be thanks.
 
Well get rid of the codes first then see if it stays on.
 
Even if it has those codes I don't think I should have to gas it to keep the car on. By gas it I mean I have to depress the gas pedal about a 1/4 of an inch to keep the car on. Any tips on how I could get rid of each code also?
 
connect your sensors. and make sure you have the other ones connected in the correct place. if these sensors arent correct it could cause your problem.
check those like blanco said and rid yourself of the codes.
then post back if your still having the problem.
 
Ok I had all my sensors connected properly yesterday. Figured it out. when I connected the IACV I heard a click inside of it as if it opened. The MAP sensor still has a problem because when it isn't connected that is the only way the car starts. However I started testing the wiring on the map sensor plug and when I tested one wire that was black and yellow and I'm guessing it is a relay wire. I heard a spewwww as if air released inside the fuel rail or near the fuel rail. Then when I started it without the MAP sensor the car stayed idle. It ran mad slow but it kept idleing. I didn't have to gas it or anything. However once you rev the car it quickly dies. Also I hear a click inside the distributor when I touched the relay wire with the wire tester. It ran mad slow but it kept idleing.

Also can someone get me the diagram for the vacuum on the map sensor.
 
why cant you connect the map sensor?
if you do not have the connector then go to a junk yard and cut it off mostly any honda. they are all the same connector type
 
Ok look here I connected the MAP sensor and I said it won't start when it isn't connected it does start the on ly thing is the plug from the dx harness is 2 wire on top of the map sensor and the plug for the ls map sensor is 4 wire. I just want the vacuum diagram and to know what I should do. This is a forum to help. WELL HELP ME OUT!!! Dnt beat me up on the forum.
 
not beating you up man. its just hard to help when we are not there ... shit look at my threads. i ask, but i mostly end up finding my own answer, and hardly any help...
 
You have to be specific and ask question to get ur problem solved, since your map senor plug doesent match up you have to ask why, did you use the wrong harness ect.. i dont know shit about wiring so i cant help. MAybe take pictures there a big help.

Your car will not run right without the senors plugged in and working so until you get the codes to go away the proper way by fixing them. We cannot help you why your car wont stay on. Those codes are probably the reason why it doesent stay on.
 
Ok I'm going to be as specific as possible. Now the map sensor is on a bracket. The dx bracket has one canister with the MAP plug and another 2 wire plug. The MAP sensor on the ls motor has 2 canisters and a four wire plug with the MAP plug. Now the problem is the dx harness is a two wire plug and I can't connect the two wire plug to the four wire plug so what should I do.

Second I need the vacuum diagrams because I have a really strong suspicion that is why the car won't stay idling. I am making this assumption because when I got the car to idle the other day I could hear the vacuum. However I did not connect the MAP sensor I connected the vacuum tubes in a way that kept the car on. However it is very ghetto. In order to start the car without giving it gas. You must first one get your wire tester and test every wire on the MAP connecting plug coming from my harness until you touch the live wire and you hear a spew of either vacuum or fuel. Then and only then can you start the car without the gas. When it is idling. If you in anyway gas the car. Once the idle drops the car will shut off.

The codes I am throwing are code 3 10 and 14. I am guessing you erase codes by disconnecting the negative battery cable for about 30 seconds to a minute.

One final thing that I need help on is how much should I cut my shift linkage by. I heard it is either 2 1/2 inches or 2 3/8 inches. These are basically about the same length if you think about it but I would like your help on how I should cut it and how I should reweld it. Finally what axles should I get. I have heard to get 88-89 integra axles or to get 90-93 axles. Which is the right axle to make sure the vehicle drives straight.
 
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Wrong harness i guess. are you using the right ecu? If so you have to wire up your map senor yourself to your ecu for it to work. You cant earse codes like that, you can flash the ecu but it is retarded when it is a vital code like yours, so the only way to fix it is to hook em up.
Here is a diagram for ur vaccums. Your map is very inportant It to tell your ecu about timing, fuel, vaccum pressure, idileing ect. FIX THAT!
6gmnoth.jpg
 
Ok that helps a lot man. The MAP sensor is direct plug in but on top of that is a wire that goes into that purge solenoid and it is 4 wire for an ls. For the dx it is 2 wire. Should I just use my dx map sensor or the ls map sensor?
 
you can try using the dx map sensor. you'll know if it works or not. if it works then the code will go away. if not then the code stays.
 
Ok I got rid of all the codes but now I'm throwing code 5 for map sensor and the map sensor is connected.

Well it might be connected but it doesent mean it works obviously.
So test for power with a meter at the senor, if you dont got power check ur wiring, if it does check the sensort, or replace it.
 
Well how do I test the ower to the MAP sensor because I remember it is suppose to be a certain amount of voltage. With a voltmeter what should I be testing for and how should I test it?

ALSO IF ANYONE HAS A B16 HEAD FOR SALE I WILL BUY IT FOR MY NEXT BUILD.
 
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