Questions about making my CRX fast :)

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always stay with the 88+ year modles and the turbo d15 will beat a stock b16, with just bolt ons on it
 
get_nick said:
omg that '86 is a pile of shit.

whats the budget?
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Well I am getting the car for about 800...

and I have about 900 for parts and what not...

And when summer rolls around I will have about 3000 for parts
 
Phantom said:
Well I am getting the car for about 800...

and I have about 900 for parts and what not...

And when summer rolls around I will have about 3000 for parts
Click to expand...

well on that budget get a 88+ modle and put a b series in it
 
Phantom said:
Well I am getting the car for about 800...

and I have about 900 for parts and what not...

And when summer rolls around I will have about 3000 for parts
Click to expand...
if you MUST buy a car right now, buy something with a really clean body and interior and save money for the motor. body work is expensive and takes a lot of time. when it comes time for the motor, you will have more money.
 
Get the 91; MPFI conversion+Si cam, then wait for summer. :)
 
Actually the first gen dosent look to bad. how can you call it a pos just from 4 pics.

now for 1 the fenders are good which is suprizing cause there fiberglass and hard as fuck to find these days.

The interior looks good but the carpet needs to be replaced or cleaned really good. The headlight pannel is in awsome shape so thats another fiberglass part that you wouldent have to find.

The 91 looks like the driver fender is wacked and it looks like theres a nice dent in the passanger rear quarter/well area.

Persionally I would go for the first gen. parts will be hella cheaper but some are harder to find. the first gen dosent take much to scream down the road.

The second gen looks like its had the pis run out of it and 1200 for a 2g rex in that shape I wouldent touch it with someone elses pole.

I would only get si models, makes swaps easyer to do.

Better gas milage with the 1g, suspention is simpler. owners manual tells you how to lower the car.

1200 for a dx....not worth it, My friend bougnt a b18b 90 rex dx for 1500. only 2 spots of rust and there no bigger than a dime.

Keep looking.
 
Hasid Lafre said:
Actually the first gen dosent look to bad. how can you call it a pos just from 4 pics.

now for 1 the fenders are good which is suprizing cause there fiberglass and hard as fuck to find these days.

The interior looks good but the carpet needs to be replaced or cleaned really good. The headlight pannel is in awsome shape so thats another fiberglass part that you wouldent have to find.

The 91 looks like the driver fender is wacked and it looks like theres a nice dent in the passanger rear quarter/well area.

Persionally I would go for the first gen. parts will be hella cheaper but some are harder to find. the first gen dosent take much to scream down the road.

The second gen looks like its had the pis run out of it and 1200 for a 2g rex in that shape I wouldent touch it with someone elses pole.

I would only get si models, makes swaps easyer to do.

Better gas milage with the 1g, suspention is simpler. owners manual tells you how to lower the car.

1200 for a dx....not worth it, My friend bougnt a b18b 90 rex dx for 1500. only 2 spots of rust and there no bigger than a dime.

Keep looking.
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yea but the older crx 87 and below are odd balls there are tons of parts that interchange on the 88+ and motor swaps in the 88+ are alot easier to do. and they look tons better
 
I'd go with the newer of the 2 because 1; the 86 in that pic isn't an Si...atleast not a true Si...and 2; The newer CRX has alot more after market support. The ad says it isn't running right so I'd throw $800 or $900 in his face and tell him it isn't gonna be cheap to tow it away. Fix the current D or Buy a good "throw away" D-series to ride during the winter, fix the body/paint like get_nick said, and save some coin till spring/summer.

Hased Lafre; I couldn't disagree more.... I've owned an 87 CRX Si and An 89 Hatchback. The 2nd gen is way easier to lower PROPERLY than the 1st gen. Sure you can dump the the front torsion bars...but pass one inch and you lose ALL of your shock travel... Lower the rear with coil overs, which you will probally have to buy the 2nd gen coils or cut the originals to drop it and then the pan-hard bar will kick the rear axle out to the side. 2nd gen, get a nice set of aftermarket springs and a couple hours in the drive way and your rollin'
Gas millage wise the 2 cars aren't that different, Model to model wise ( HF vs.HF, Si vs. Si )
The fenders arn't hard to find, but I'll agree the nose piece is....and they aren't fiber glass..they are plastic ( atleast mine were not )
Engine swaps.......2nd gen all day, you can find just about everything you need in the junk yard. The junk yard rule only works well with the 1st gen if you can find an un-molested 1st gen 'teg to swap from.
All factoids aside, 2nd gen pw3nz 1st gen.
My personal opinion though; My 1st gen CRX Si ( black,sunroof, " no yoke" wheels) Ive never owned a more fun STOCK Honda to drive.....and I own an s2000. That speaks volumes I think.
 
I have getting the 91 CRX

What engine shit can I do to the D15, Like internal wise....

I already have the Turbo for it.
 
Honestly I'd swap it out for a D16 block; mainly because there's a tad more support(mainly the rods). Anyways, you can swap it out for other pistons from D-series(Suzuki Vitara pistons are actually a favorite among D16 VTEC guys for turbo builds; compression might be too low for a D15). Rods will be expensive though as, from what I've seen, only Crower makes them for a D15(~$600). Tuner Toys and other companies makes rods for the D16 and cost about $200(h-beam). An alternate option would be shot-peening the stock rods and upgrading the bolts to ARP units.

As for the head; plenty of companies make camshaft, valves, and springs for it.
 
K2e2vin said:
Honestly I'd swap it out for a D16 block; mainly because there's a tad more support(mainly the rods). Anyways, you can swap it out for other pistons from D-series(Suzuki Vitara pistons are actually a favorite among D16 VTEC guys for turbo builds; compression might be too low for a D15). Rods will be expensive though as, from what I've seen, only Crower makes them for a D15(~$600). Tuner Toys and other companies makes rods for the D16 and cost about $200(h-beam). An alternate option would be shot-peening the stock rods and upgrading the bolts to ARP units.

As for the head; plenty of companies make camshaft, valves, and springs for it.
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Damn Well I guess a swap it is......

How much would a D16 be?

and would I only have to buy the block and put the D15 internals in it, or would I basically have to buy a complete swap?
 
You just need the short block; and everything for the MPFI conversion plus the D16A6 camshaft for a little more power(you'll need a Y8 cam gear though for the Si camshaft in a D15). While the short block is out you can rebuild everything and swap in stronger rods and such; thus will make it more reliable when boosting. You can just swap in a complete D16A6 and not worry about swapping this and that over though.

You should be able to find a shortblock in good condition for around $100-150. Try to not spend more than $200 though. I've seen some D16A6 longblocks go for around $250 here. Some people will even sell them for less...Hell, I bought my D15B VTEC for $200 (longblock, ECU, harness, intake, and ebay header) :D
 
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Hasid Lafre said:
Actually the first gen dosent look to bad. how can you call it a pos just from 4 pics.
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because it's all different colors, the interior is shitty and there is a 1/2 inch of dirt on it. it hasn't been maintained.
 
I'm with k2thaE2thavin on this one as far as buying a complete yet better D to swap in. I built a D16Z6 very similar to the one the RAGE guys had in ther "PINKS" car but I used YCP 8.5-1 pistons (very similar to the Vitaras ) I sold the motor to a cat in NY and he "says" he pulled 287 to the wheels on one of those mobile dynos they bring to the NOPI shows. Hes running one of those "off road Edelbrock turbo kits w/ AEM stand alone. The engine.. complete with all the parts and labor not done by myself came out to around $1100 bucks...but i was going for a bullet proof D, half of that would build you a bitchin' b series spanker. A good person to talk to about D series would be BLANCO, he helped me out a sh** load on my build.
 
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