help please....... b20vtec all motor

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paia_nation

New Member
I was wanting to build a b20 vtec, built all motor. Car will be mostly a track car with the acception of driving seldomly on the weekends for car crusies, but not much. I want to make hp to put the car (eg hatch) in the low 11s quarter mile. Was thinking about putting 14:1 compression pistons, h beam rods, with stage 3 cams, pp head, multi angle valve job, 1mm valves, taitanium valve train in a b16 head, all parts from brian crower with toda headers and 2 1/2 in. Piping or slightly bigger.... or Was wondering if I should go with the brian crower stroker kit. With the same stuff as above but just with a stroker crank instead of the stock crank. Is 14:1 cp too much for a b20??? I will be running race gas and tuned with a apex power fc. Thanks
 
Why not just chip your ecu?? Its WAY cheaper and easier to tune than using a fc. Someone correct me if I"m wrong.
 
Ok, so you want an all motor Honda that runs 11's. First, let me say that this will NOT be a cheap build, or something you can just throw together. You can't just throw parts at a car, and expect it to do certain things, or gain X amount of HP.

Do some reading on B20/VTEC setups to see what parts work well together. I'm not all too familiar with B20/VTEC setups, but you can definately make enough power to get into the 13's with that hatch if done right. As far as 11's, you might want to think about some form of forced induction to get there.

Also, you'll probably want to gut your interior if you really are serious about hitting the 11's. And keep in mind, its not all about power. You could have 600whp and be running 13's, when the guy next to you has maybe 300whp and runs low 12's all day long because he has a good suspension, traction bars, and a set of slicks. Keep that in mind.
 
dtob- "just chipping" at 14:1 compression in a serious engine is a bad idea.

Matts- you can run 11s on an all motor B20/VTEC without too much difficulty, especially if it's in a gutted race prepped hatch. You don't need much more than 220-230whp with the right suspension setup.

To the OP, 14:1 isn't bad at all on race gas. You can do it on high octane unleaded if you want. I ran 13:1 on 93 octane pump gas.

Do tons of research, find out what parts you really want to use, then start building. Head work is VERY important at this level, so pay special attention to this. Don't run the stroker kit- you'll rev less and it's really expensive.

2.5" is too small- run a 3" exhaust.

Good luck.
 
What I meant by just chip it was chip it with a chipping kit and get a tune with that instead of trying to mess around with a fuel control unit. Crome is much easier to work with. Those "chips" off ebay are not good for this application and that's not what I meant.

I 100% agree with you calesta.

I have my built ls/vtec running 12.5:1 compression and am chipped with a kit from Crome, TurboEdit, Uberdata --- DIY Honda ECU tuning and chipping resources, products write-ups and links. Widebands, Fuel Pumps, Intercoolers, ECU Chipping, Wideband Tuning & more and I'm using an ostrich eprom emulator with an innovate LC-1 wide band O2 and datalogging cable soldered into my ecu. Looking forward to the dyno this coming spring.

What I have is pretty much what I would recommend for use with this b20vtec project.
 
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220-230 whp is easy with a b20?

Yup. Not necessarily super cheap, but it's easy to get.

What I meant by just chip it was chip it with a chipping kit and get a tune with that instead of trying to mess around with a fuel control unit. Crome is much easier to work with. Those "chips" off ebay are not good for this application and that's not what I meant.

I 100% agree with you calesta.
:thumbsup:
 
Are you talking to me? Thats what I plan on doing. I was reffering to the b20/vtec build 220-230whp, something I couldnt afford. :)
 
Build the bottom end to be able to handle revving it to 8k RPM+ to start with. The piston speeds on an engine like that exceed the highest VTEC B series by a big margin and you run the risk of blowing it into pieces if you leave it stock. The B20 block was never engineered to run those kind of revs and at the very least I would upgrade the rod bolts to have some kind of insurance.
 
rods bolts yes. but the most important parts are the oil and water pumps. You should be good with that on the street.
 
Build the bottom end to be able to handle revving it to 8k RPM+ to start with. The piston speeds on an engine like that exceed the highest VTEC B series by a big margin and you run the risk of blowing it into pieces if you leave it stock. The B20 block was never engineered to run those kind of revs and at the very least I would upgrade the rod bolts to have some kind of insurance.

Here's where I start to get lost. "Piston speed", the noob in me would expect it to be the same at the same RPM. But now that I think about it, it must be related to extra stroke. But can it really have that much of an effect? Still, rods, bolts, pistons, cheap insurance, and dependability.
 
i have seen it done hatch runnin low 11 s on track all motor call mike at kingmotorsport 262 786 8360 ask for mike he owns that car
 
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