Been driving the sube a LOT

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Turbo&Auto

Nick Go FAST!!
Its a blast! I flashed the ECU the other night with a Stg2 map and the car is beast now! 4th pulls like mad above 5K.

I put a 18G, and GT Spec headers on my xmas list :lol:

Here's some teaser vids, my car rides VERY tight with the Leda Coilovers on it. So its pretty hard to get a vid alone. Ill get a couple good vids over the weekend. Especially a launch, the car rockets off the line nicely!

http://www.nicksturbomatrix.com/3rd4th.3gp
http://www.nicksturbomatrix.com/4th5th.3gp
 
Lol. This car Ive owned since 98, bought it new. Over the last 5+ years Ive been building it to this point. It was no overnight success unfortunately.
 
What type of map are you running? What mods? What are your AFR's & boost maps like?
 
Im running a XPT Stg 2 map. Gutted up pipe, TurboXS DP, 3" custom exhaust, K&N Panel Filter.

My AFR's are flat 11's. Spiking 16psi tapering off to 12-13 by redline, depends on the gear.
 
HAHA, I use quicktime to view them usually. Its a cell cam...:( I know....They arent too bad though!!

Im having car issues now. When the car gets up to full temp and I then stop at a light or something, it will idle high, pop a cel, idle drops, car runs like total dog shit!

I logged the data when it happens, the afr's are WAY lean when it happens. I get a IACV code so I bought a new gasket and cleaned it. No change.

I tried a spare Maf, no change. new plugs, no change. New O2, no change

I then found a vacuum line off of the TGV's disconnected. I connected it to the nipple on the front of the intake manifold. The car ran different and better for longer but then the problem came back. I thought I had it there!

SO, I picked up a TB off of Ebay with all of the sensors on it. Im hoping to get it by the end of the week and try it. I also bought a stock BOV (or BPV, w/e) to try out. Ive heard aftermarket bov's on sube's suck. Now its the waiting game......
 
Yeah I think I got an IACV code from my TGV deletes.

The MAF sensors get dirty sometimes and need to be cleaned with rubbing alcohol and q tips.

Also aftermarket BOV do suck on the sube because its made for the bypass valve and to have that air recirculated, rather than vented.

There's a sensor and gasket right on the top of the throttle body that people have problems with as well. When i had the IACV code, I replaced that gasket and cleaned that sensor as well. This was all awhile ago, though.
 
A vented BOV will cause problems running rich, not lean...

What is the CEL you are throwing? Any bucking/stuttering?

Your TGV's might be stuck open.
 
My TGV's were stuck open, I found the vacuum line from the driver side rear TGV laying on the engine. I connected it to the Intake Manifold and it ran better. BUT after the car fully warmed up again it did the same shit.....

I also tried a spare MAF, no change in teh condition. And I also removed the IACV, cleaned it, replaced the gasket and that also had no change.

I then unplugged the IACV, the car idle'd high but ran good otherwise. I did the same with the front O2 and the samething happened. I bought a new front O2 and spare TB with all the sensors. They should both be here this week. I will post if they fix anything.

I was reading on Nasioc some more yesterday and saw that Im missing the restrictor pill going from the oulet nipple to the factory boost solenoid :lol: Getting a swap together is fun....LOL!

Is there a way to test the TGV's without removing the IM????? Thanks :)
 
My TGV's were stuck open, I found the vacuum line from the driver side rear TGV laying on the engine. I connected it to the Intake Manifold and it ran better. BUT after the car fully warmed up again it did the same shit.....

I also tried a spare MAF, no change in teh condition. And I also removed the IACV, cleaned it, replaced the gasket and that also had no change.

I then unplugged the IACV, the car idle'd high but ran good otherwise. I did the same with the front O2 and the samething happened. I bought a new front O2 and spare TB with all the sensors. They should both be here this week. I will post if they fix anything.

I was reading on Nasioc some more yesterday and saw that Im missing the restrictor pill going from the oulet nipple to the factory boost solenoid :lol: Getting a swap together is fun....LOL!

Is there a way to test the TGV's without removing the IM????? Thanks :)

You may just have a bad IACV sensor. There's a long thread on nasioc about it and thats where I learned to clean and replace the gasket, but others have had the entire thing die.

If you're using the stock boost control solenoid there's supposed to be a restrictor pill, but the size of the pill depends on what turbo you're running and what time of year it is - tuners swap them out because you can't have the same pill when its 100degrees and humid here as when its snowing, like now.

I swapped to a perrin EBCS so I wouldn't have to worry about the stock solenoid and because the electronic solenoid reacts faster and more efficiently than the manual one. It was about $60 used.
 
Ive been conidering going to a EWG when I do the 18G. just not sure yet.

The spare TB I bought is suppossed to be here on Friday, hopefully that IACV does it :)
 
ok... #1, you DO NOT need to swap the restrictor pill out depending on time of year if you tune a car correctly. The Subaru ECU has boost compensation based upon positive or Negative Interpolation (Boost Correction).

If your tuner is telling you that you need to swap restrictor pills when the temperature changes... run away... FAST...


If you put your car into test mode, you should hear the TGV motors opening and closing, along with hearing the fuel pump fire, & the Rad fans turn on and off...

The other thing that it could be is if the ground block inside the car (Drivers side foot panel) is not grounded correctly, it can cause a similar problem... My friend Meg fought this on her GC swap for a few months, replacing the complete TB, doing all kinds of shit... I traced her wiring harness out, and knew SOMETHING was up, but couldn't figure it out because i didnt know how the swap wiring crossed over... The next day, she accidentally kicked the drivers kickpanel, and the idle changed... the bolt had fallen out... She put the bolt back in, and didnt have a problem since.

And if you are running without the pill, how many lbs of boost are you seeing on the XPT map?
 
18psi. sometimes around 20 in 4th or 5th gear with a lot of load on the engine. I thought it was weird that i was boosting over the target amount. I tried decreasing WG duty cycle and it had lil effect. Then I got the idle issue and just changed gears to figure that out. Im sure the pill will fix my overboosting.
 
ok... #1, you DO NOT need to swap the restrictor pill out depending on time of year if you tune a car correctly. The Subaru ECU has boost compensation based upon positive or Negative Interpolation (Boost Correction).

If your tuner is telling you that you need to swap restrictor pills when the temperature changes... run away... FAST...

Yeah, I would run real fast... from the guy thats been tuning for year and tunes out of a subaru dealership...

derrr.

Dave at Metric Subaru Performance Tuning. mspt.net He's the only tuner that I have to ever hear a negative thing about. He tunes with Clarke. ...but I guess he must be some rook because you don't like the idea that there's different ways to do things. You can run the same pill all year but your results aren't going to be as good.

I think he has a few years on you and although you may not agree with what I've said and you might think your way is the gospel, this is the second time you've tried to correct what I've had to say and I was in fact correct both times. You can tune for one pill and then leave it up to the ECU to correct, but do you think that this is the most effective way? Of course not, the stock ECU wasn't meant to be tuned and have to compensate for all these different factors over a stock car.

Cliffs;
You can use one pill, but even with correction the ECU may not be able to compensate for the extreme difference in temperature. Think about NJ, we can have humidity up in the 80% and have 105 degree days, or we could have extremely dry days that are below zero. The stock boost correction tables are going to have a difficult time compensating for this and this is what the people who have done the restrictor pill mod have found out through trial and error.
 
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Sure you CAN tune for different pills, but why would you?!?! Wouldn't you want something you can just drive year round without worry? Not say "oh its under 50 degrees today... better switch my boost lines around". Not worth it to gain an extra 50rpm of spool or control. Get a GM BCS if you are that concerned. I run an AVCR so I dont have the need for the pill. And if you tune for Atmospheric Compensation, the sensors in the car WILL compensate correctly.

I guess thats just a difference between myself and some tuners. I tune a car for a smooth year round setup that never needs to be messed with. "Set it and forget it". Not "I better pay attention because i'm walking that thin line that if i miss 1 little thing i'm gonna screw something up".

Turbo&Auto... What are your WGDC's like? How much did you bring them down? And what are your IDC's like at 20psi on the stock 440's?
 
I finally got a chance to work on the car again yesterday. I installed the new IACV, no change :( I didnt put the new O2 in, so Ill try that tonight. I have a feeling nothing will change. I think the car is going back to Rallispec.....
 
Check your driver side kickpanel... See if there is a big ring terminal or any ground loop that is loose in there. Basically look for a big white box hanging down.
 
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