turbo manifold question

We may earn a small commission from affiliate links and paid advertisements. Terms

HATCHET_HONDA

scottie fizzle
what exhaust mani would be better? cast iron or aluminum tig-welded? and ive been looking into fuel management..is a afc hack needed? or would a boost dependent FPR be sufficent..
 
Dude it's better to just chip your ecu for tuning. The best bet would be to pick up a $1,000 AEM EMS and work with that.
 
$1000 huh? hmmm ill just pull..thaaat ouuta my aaasss..ahhh yes! here we go..lol

yea tons of ways to do it i guess. i dont wanna boost high psi's just im left in the dust since er1's goin turbo of some kind round here. even 5.slow mustangs
 
Shit a 5.slow mustang won't be so slow with a turbo even a v6 turbo is fast.

I'm really glad I live in a small town where the fastest thing at my school is pretty much this 1 camaro for now along with these v8 trucks. Once I turbocharge my civic (200 hp hopefully) I'll be second fastest at least at my school haha. Speed isn't really my goal, I just need enough power to drift.

But either way with 200 @ my wheels I'd be the second fastest at my school and none of those v8 trucks could tell me shit. Especially this one guy with his v8 chevy he think's he's the shit because he hasn't lost a race in his silverado...yet ;) but I've got somethin coming for him. It's funny when people like him drool over a damn cold air intake and a cat-back exhaust like it's an instant 100 hp gain or something.
 
Last edited:
^ Dude, you're racing a fucking truck. They weigh two to three times as much. And they aren't meant to race and corner. They are meant to haul shit.

Anyway, equal length manifolds are always better. Tig welded or cast (I do believe they make equal length cast manifolds). Get a good name brand reputable turbo manifold. TONS can be found for decent prices on hondamarketplace.com in the forced induction section.

Tune with CROME.

tunewithcrome.com
 
lol exactly dood!!!! guys round here think..ohh i gots a 350 chevy big block..blah blah blah..fuck your lil ricer..im so fast..i have 40 inch redneck tires..yakk yakk yakk.. lol i say my hatch is half the weight of your truck ..lol
 
^ Dude, you're racing a fucking truck. They weigh two to three times as much. And they aren't meant to race and corner. They are meant to haul shit.

Man there's only one thing this guy hauls with his truck and that's ass. It spanked my stock d15b7 and I'm talking about street drag, not cornering yea of course I'd beat him I'd drift right around every corner believe me that's what I do. He's too scared to do anything else since we wrecked into a tree at 45 last time he tried to drift his truck with me and both of our little bro's in it. I ended up getting the worst - hella whiplash and I dented his dash with my face.
 
ever seen a meagan drift spec cat back system installed? the exhaust tip is described as pointed up and outward.. i hate that look
 
Man there's only one thing this guy hauls with his truck and that's ass. It spanked my stock d15b7 and I'm talking about street drag, not cornering yea of course I'd beat him I'd drift right around every corner believe me that's what I do. He's too scared to do anything else since we wrecked into a tree at 45 last time he tried to drift his truck with me and both of our little bro's in it. I ended up getting the worst - hella whiplash and I dented his dash with my face.

Is this guy one of those diesel-ricers?
Why are you racing trucks with a stock Honda? Thats what makes Honda drivers look bad. Honda's aren't quick from the factory (well most aren't). With a swap and some bolt-ons, sure they are pretty quick.
Bottom line is, you're making a fool of yourself, and making Honda drivers everywhere look bad.
 
Whoa now take it easy I'm not trying to make anyone look bad it was just for fun, like I said, I DRIFT I don't usually drag.
 
Speed isn't really my goal, I just need enough power to drift..

Ok, I'm going to stop biting my tongue.


Why are you trying to 'drift' in a FWD car? Srsly, just buy an old, rusted out RWD car, then fuck with that instead of trying to kill yourself in your civic.
 
Why are you trying to 'drift' in a FWD car? Srsly, just buy an old, rusted out RWD car, then fuck with that instead of trying to kill yourself in your civic.

Because it's my only car and I don't even have a job all I got is $800 left in the bank. That and I've seen some crazy ass fwd drifts, in my town there was a drift event with like 500 racers or so and a guy with a FWD actually took first. He was competing against modded 240's and stangs and other rwd's. And because I've always pushed my fwd so I'm more used to the way it handles, I tried it in a rwd and spun out EVERY TIME.
 
Yeah, it's very true that driving in a rwd car can get scary at times. Especially if you're used to a FWD. When I was renting an Audi TT, I checked to ensure I got the FWD instead of the Quattro. FWD is fun, especially if you know how to drive it. ;)

I just don't think drifting in a fwd is nearly as much fun.
 
Whoa now take it easy I'm not trying to make anyone look bad it was just for fun, like I said, I DRIFT I don't usually drag.

Haha. For fun.

All I'm saying is, a Honda getting spanked by what sounds like a close to stock truck isnt exactly something that sounds like fun.
 
Haha. For fun.

All I'm saying is, a Honda getting spanked by what sounds like a close to stock truck isnt exactly something that sounds like fun.

Lol by for fun, I mean it wasn't for money or anything else. We just ended up next to each other and he was revving at ME, so I was like eh wtf and I beat him off the line no prob but he passed me around 3rd. I should have switched lanes and kept his ass behind me.
 
Number one, cast iron is stronger than aluminum but it has its poor design. personally, I would run the cast iron just for reliability since your NOT building a 500 whp monster.

Second, vafc hacks suck. period. do larger injectors, say 440's for mild boost and a fuel pump, walbro 255 should due just fine. than go obd1 with a p28 or p72 and have it chipped with crome or hondata or neptune, whichever you want. crome is great for the price and i personally use crome pro.

Also, there is no such thing as a "boost dependent fpr". If you wanna go the cheap way out (not recommended), buy a 12:1 FMU and a missing link and run 8psi. run 2-degree colder plugs and retard the timing accordingly. Keep in mind, this is the CHEAP way out.
 
Last edited:
Sorry but I have never heard of an alumium manifold. Ever thrown a beer can in a fire? Well it melts! The same thing would happen if exhaust right out of the head was going through aluminum. All tubular manifolds are steel. Stay away from ebay brands, and expect to pay $600+ for a quality piece such as full race or peakboost.
 
That's just like me telling anyone else to stop doing what they want to do.

And in 6 months when I turbocharge, it will no longer be a grocerie getter :).
 
Back
Top