Mild lsvtec buildup: how to & pics

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LS_VTEC

LS_VTEC

you get the BRAKE
So I guess I will be starting this thread which will most likely go on for about a week to two weeks depending on machine shop turnaround. This thread will be a step by step build of my mild ls-vtec setup. As I am still waiting for parts to arrive in the mail and the head from the machine shop I will start off here.

B18A1 short block
jdm b16a head (1st gen)

So far, the parts list is as follows:

8mm ARP Rod bolts
ARP Moly Lube
ACL Race Rod Bearings
Clevite Bearing Guard
Shotpeened LS rods
CTR pistons (stock bore)
Rear Main Seal
gsr oil/water pumps
ebay lsvtec conversion kit

Pictures and detailed how-to coming as soon as I have all the parts to assemble (within the next week or so) and I will start the buildup proggress.
 
update (noone cares anyhow LOL)....

Removed the oil pan, oil pickup and windage tray.
Removed Pistons and rods from all 4 cylinders.

The rod bearings are really scored but the journals seem to be fine so the crank will stay in. still waiting on parts and machine shop so I will update again later this week...tomorrow ill post pics of the work done so far...
 
Still waiting for my timing belt, water pump, tb tensioner and pistons (ctr 81mm/stock bore)... pics soon...
 
shortblock2.jpg
 
Stil waiting for parts, but here are some pictures...

I will be de-glazing it and honing it myself thursday and this weekend the shortblock will be painted black with high temp.
shortblock.jpg



Here are the old pistons/rods after removal...
oldpistonsrods.jpg


close up of one of the old pistons..
oldpiston.jpg



Here is a shot of the old bearing still on the rod... not looking so pretty i might add...
oldbearing.jpg


Here is the windage tray and oil pickup from the LS
oilparts.jpg


arp moly lube, acl race (rod bearings), new oem tb tensioner
miscparts.jpg



a couple pictures of the crankshaft still in the block (unmachined)
crank.jpg

crank2.jpg
 
MMmm copper orange. Those bearings actually look pretty good. Mine had some deep scores in them from metal particles.
 
That "orange crap" is a sealer the previous owner used to seal the oil pan and did not wait until it dried to form its gasket. he also didnt do the proper job at applying it either as you can see. Your supposed to wait for it to dry before re-installing or else it will end up all over the place.
 
dtob said:
MMmm copper orange. Those bearings actually look pretty good. Mine had some deep scores in them from metal particles.
Click to expand...

Spoon drain plug FTW (for break-in especially). It is magnetic and WILL trap most metal particles.
 
pics of the car?

what cams are you going to run?
 
get_nick said:
pics of the car?

what cams are you going to run?
Click to expand...

I don't post pics of the car for one simple reason..thieves.
When the engine goes in ill post 1 pic before it gets painted.

A friend of mine has s2pro2's im thinking about using. But for the break-in im going to use ITR cams. I need to get my hands on a quality header. The one on the car now is dc sports (junk). If I can get the deal on Hytech I will go that route. If not, Rage or SMSP.
 
Rage and SMSP are good headers.

And I feel you about the thieves. I have no idea where you live so I wont jack you.

EDIT: even if I did know where you live, I still wouldn't jack you.
 
lol thanks Nick, I appreciate it. My favorite header would be the Hytech, but finding one for a decent price is the hard part. I had one but I ended up selling it when boosted the sohc engine. I wish I never sold it...
 
Last edited:
I just bought one like that. It is coming in today. I'll let you know how they look.
 
do the engine right and take your time. any dirt or grease/oil where it shouldnt be will lead to failure.

A few tricks is to lightly sand where the bearing will be placed so they inbed and dont spin. Also when installing all parts such as the cams etc i use STP oil treatment with a small brush. I torque to spec and in sequence also. My new engine has 6k on it and all good!

Also a good trick if you plan on running this engine in they way i think you will run it ;)....

Drive it 20miles on a low quality oil and dont rev over 3k and only 75 throttle then let off in a higher gear and slow down to about 5mph so then the vacuum created causes the rings to fully seat. Then after doing this numerous times and driving around for 20miles, dump the oil and put in a good oil/filter! Run for 200miles and then dump again. YOur next oil change will be good to about 3k miles and should be clean for the most part. Motorcycles use this technique to make there high revving engines last twice as long. My motor was broken in this way also.

good luck
 
lol this is a build thread, not a break-in thread. I have my own ways of breaking in engines but your way seems a lot different from mine. I'm afraid Blanco is correct here.
 
Ok, im off to deglaze and hone the cylinders, ill post the pics tonight when I get home.
 
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