sputtering B16

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hatukazi

ambitious...but rubbish
I have been having problems with misfiring since I got my crx, I was finally able to afford a new igniter and thought my problems were over, but alas I was wrong.

checking for shorts I broke a wire on the sensor that plugs into the side of the head near the distributor causing a check engine light, starting problems, and cutting my rpm short to 7500 and no VTEC. (closed loop??)

However (when it finallt started) the misfire went away completely, fixed the sensor plug and we're back to misfire city again. Never misfires under full throttle only at steady cruising.

I have no CEL's now but it misfires, unplug the sensor and it limps smoothly, so I am guessing I have a problem with one of my sensors, which sensors have the ability to mess up my ignition but not throw a CEL??



by the way, I am completly fed up with this car and want a SOHC:(
 
had it idling today, and I pulled each wire off the plug, all 4 arced from about two inches above the plug so I'm getting spark to all four holes.

if I pull the coolant temp. sensor it smooths out.

I noticed that my TPS is adjustable, and that it is all the way to the edge of its motion, how do I tell if it is where it needs to be and could this cause the problem??
 
i dont know exactly but on a d it should be set to the middle,,,,use a multi meter and test it if you have a manual for a b series motor it will tell you what the reading should be if its off a little it will make your car think that its at wide open throttle when it isnt,,,

your tps could be bad all together, finding out what the voltage should be on your tps is what you need to do first, then test yours to see where its at the adjust it from there,,,,,turn the key all the way but dont start it,,,then use a multi meter to test,,,i'll try to find exact numbers, and how to for you,,i have instructions somewhere just gotta find them,,,,sorry if it dont make any since shit just runs through my head and it dont slow down.
 
ALL tps's should be set to .5v closed, approx ~4.5v full throttle wide open. use a multimeter to test the voltage between the signal and the ground wire. back-probe the sensor. if your multimeter doesnt have the pins to do it, fab something up w/ paperclips.

after you set your tps, it's probably a good idea to pull the battery cable and reset the ecu.

yeah, the tps is a BIG factor in how well the car runs.
 
o yeah, dude up there didnt expect you to actually pull a plug while it's misfiring... and/or going 30mph. kinda duh

he ment. look at the code for which cylinder is misfiring. pull the spark plug (while the motor is off, again kinda duh) for that cylinder and see if it's got corosion, or a calcium or w/e arch, or bent, or anything not normal. the back of a haynes should tell you what's normal.
 
o yeah, dude up there didnt expect you to actually pull a plug while it's misfiring... and/or going 30mph. kinda duh

he ment. look at the code for which cylinder is misfiring. pull the spark plug (while the motor is off, again kinda duh) for that cylinder and see if it's got corosion, or a calcium or w/e arch, or bent, or anything not normal. the back of a haynes should tell you what's normal.
I dont think my ECU will tell me I'm obd0

my old plugs i took out a couple weeks ago were ok a little black around the edges and only slight discoloration in the centers, and gapped correctly.
 
do u have both o2 sensors hooked up and in the right place? that what caused in same problem in mine using a pr3.
yes, I have them both hooked up ( I got a schematic off here ).
It doesn't sputter under full throttle.
it got a little warmer today and I noticed a little gas smell at a stoplight.

to test the TPS there are 3 wires, red, yellow and green (like jamaica mon!) anybody know which is which?
 
this is straight from Haynes

using a voltmeter, check the reference voltage from the PCM. connect the positiveprobe to the yellow blue wire and the negitive probe to the green black wire it should read approximatley 5.0 volts.

next check the TPS signal voltage. with the engine off, throttle fully closed and the TPSelectrical connector connected, connect the probes of the voltmeterred/black wire (positive probe) and ground (negitive probe) note:use a straight pin to back probe the connector terminal. gradually open the throttle valve aand observe the TPS voltage. with the valve fully closed it should read0.5 volts. slowly move the throttle valve and see if the voltage changes as the sensor tranles from idle to full throttle. the voltafe should increase smoothlyto approximately 4.5 volts, if the readings are incorrect replace the TPS sensor.

i hope that helps...
 
yes it does, even though I'm not getting a CEL I checked my ECU today (my blower motor is ghetto rigged and cut off on me so I was right there anyway)

getting codes 6&7


6- Accord Civic CRV CRX Del Sol Odyssey Prelude
85-98 86-98 97-98 85-91 93-97 95-98 85-98
ECT Sensor (Engine Coolant Temperature)
defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor


7- Accord Civic CRV CRX Del Sol Odyssey Prelude
85-98 86-98 97-98 85-91 93-97 95-98 85-98
TP Sensor (Throttle Position)
defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor


I thought I had to have a CEL to get a code, #6 is taken care of now on to #7 whoo-hoo!
 
Have you done the basics? I had the same issue and it was the cap and rotor. I have also seen issues with vacuum leaks causing missing, ie the hoses to the map. (this does not raise the idle) Spark plug wires arcing to ground will also do it.
 
Have you done the basics? I had the same issue and it was the cap and rotor. I have also seen issues with vacuum leaks causing missing, ie the hoses to the map. (this does not raise the idle) Spark plug wires arcing to ground will also do it.


I adjusted my TPS without a multimeter (cuz i dont have one) and it got a little better, my cap and rotor LOOKED ok when I replaced the igniter but I cant hurt anything by replacing them too.

is there a compatible cap and rotor on a USDM honda? or am I going to have to get one from like password JDM or something?
 
it's correct, I messed it up once painting my valve cover, it's not nearly that bad.
 
You can have cylinders 1 and 3 back wards and it will still run, and go it will just hesitate sum. Just check to see if its really correct.
 
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