1991 civic 4wd wagon flexing clutch pedal bracket

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J

james5577

New Member
new to this, hope i m posting this right. i had my clutch replaced 7000 miles ago. it is shifting hard, has a low release, the pedal is hard and it grinds occasionally. i am being told it needs a new clutch pedal bracket because it is flexing. my regular mechanic seems to think that the clutch may have never been replaced ( i paid for a new one) and the place that did the clutch repair says that the current symptoms are because the clutch pedal bracket needs to be replaced (another 325 bucks) any insight on this would be appreciated.
 
The clutch pedal bracket is more likely to break than flex. Try checking the cable; make sure it's adjusted. Get a used one for cheaper(junkyard or someone parting out their EF...hell I have one too!).

Also, a cheap-brand or low quality clutch can have similar symptoms. My cousin had his changed awhile back with a Valeo brand(or something like that) and the clutch pedal was very soft, and slipped a lot. Switched to a Exedy replacement and fixed the problem.
 
when they break they flex alot. airjockie's CRX and mine both had broken clutch pedal brackets...
 
93civicracer said:
Get a factory service manual and replace the clutch pedal bracket yourself.
Click to expand...
this is the way to go. but I would prolly start simple first. check the adjustment on the pedal first then maybe try to bleed it. or just get in there and take a look at the bracket yourself.
 
Removal & Installation

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable and disable the SRS system (if equipped.) At the top of the clutch pedal, remove the cotter pin and pull the pedal pin out of the yoke.
  2. Remove the nuts and bolts holding the clutch master cylinder and remove the cylinder from the engine compartment.
  3. Disconnect and plug the hydraulic lines from the master cylinder.
  4. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Bleed the clutch hydraulic system.
 
Hydraulic System Bleeding

The hydraulic system must be bled whenever the system has been leaking or dismantled. The bleed screw is located on the slave cylinder.
  1. Remove the bleed screw dust cap.
  2. Attach a clear hose to the bleed screw. Immerse the other end of the hose in a clear jar, half-filled with brake fluid.
  3. Fill the clutch master cylinder with fresh brake fluid.
  4. Open the bleed screw slightly and have an assistant slowly depress the clutch pedal. Close the bleed screw when the pedal reaches the end of its travel. Allow the clutch pedal to return slowly.
  5. Repeat until all air bubbles are expelled from the system.
  6. Properly dispose of the brake fluid in the jar. Install the dust cap. Refill the master cylinder.
 
here's a diagram
  1. Measure the clutch pedal disengagement height.
  2. Measure the clutch pedal free-play.
  3. Adjust the clutch pedal free-play by turning the clutch cable adjusting nut, found at the end of the clutch cable housing near the release shaft.
  4. Turn the adjusting nut until the clutch pedal free-play is 0.6-0.8 in. (15-20mm).
  5. After adjustment, make sure the free-play at the tip of the release arm is 0.12-0.16 in. (3.0-4.0mm).
 
Last edited:
Clutch Cable Bracket BROKE

can anyone help

i was getting a new clutch put in my 1990 CRX (260,000 miles)

they called me and said when they test drove the car, the bracket broke

He explained its where the clutch goes etc...

They would look for one for me or WELD it

They just called and they cant find one so they sent the piece the be welded

I HAVE SOME QUESTIONS

... what do you all think about the piece being welded and reinforced?
... also what Exactly are they welding, ive never seen a pic so i dont know
... if given the choice would you put a junk yard find or weld it


Please send me any thoughts as i really appreciate it, thanks
 
welding it should do just fine. this is an old thread so Im sure its welded and youve been driving the car since.. =0)
 
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