Painting valve cover...

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Team_Asterisk

R0T0R WH0R3
Well, right now, I'm painting my valve cover. and I got it off, used aircraft stripper, sanded & wet-sanded it with 320grit. Then I thought that I don’t want to have those "sanding scratches" in it, so I stepped up to 600 grit.

Now, when I look at it under light, it looks finely scratched head on, but feels REALLY smooth, and almost has a reflection on the flat parts when you look at it at a 30deg. angle.

I bought some white plasti-kote engine enamel, (1000 degree) and it does not require primer, but I was wondering if I perhaps sanded the bare aluminum down too smooth? Should I go back over it with 320 grit again so the paint sticks better?
 
Well, right now, I'm painting my valve cover. and I got it off, used aircraft stripper, sanded & wet-sanded it with 320grit. Then I thought that I don’t want to have those "sanding scratches" in it, so I stepped up to 600 grit.

Now, when I look at it under light, it looks finely scratched head on, but feels REALLY smooth, and almost has a reflection on the flat parts when you look at it at a 30deg. angle.

I bought some white plasti-kote engine enamel, (1000 degree) and it does not require primer, but I was wondering if I perhaps sanded the bare aluminum down too smooth? Should I go back over it with 320 grit again so the paint sticks better?

I'd throw a few coats of clear on it when you're done with the color. It'll be more durable that way, probably last a few years longer.
 
yea.. while its still sticky spray 2-3 light coats of high temp clear on it.. it'll look better and be more durable
 
Fuck, I forgot to buy the hi-temp clear... But I'm not keeping this car forever, at least I hope I dont, so I'm not worried as long as it does not start chipping off within a month.

I got this ride to repair it, fix all the little quirks, and sell it off for it's retail price, rather than the good deal I got for it, because the previous owner made the mistake of giving the ride to his girlfriend!:D
 
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