fresh motor build using oil..... any ideas?

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hondapowerb16a2

New Member
ok, so i just built my usdm 00 si b16a2 engine and got it in and running and it smokes a bit just like the white smoke n the morning when your car is cold but never stops gets a little worse in vtec but not bad. i didnt think anything of it at first cuz its freezing here and just thought it was because it was cold out side untill i noticed i was using oil. there are no oil leeks around the engine at all so something is wrong. the engine had 21K original miles when i did the build and have put about 2k on since. what all could it be, what should i check, and is there anyway i can tell what it is without tearing apart the engine? it is going through about a quart every 1-2 weeks. any ideas would be helpful.

this is what i did to the motor-

machine shop honed the block, polished the crank, narrowed the tops of the rods to fit new oem CTR pistons, fit new OEM honda rings.

machine shop cleaned/milled the mating surface of the head, 3 angle valve job, new valve seals, new ITR dual valve springs.

Then i reassembled everything with all brand new gaskets, CTR cams, skunk2 pro intake manifold, hondata manifold gasket. and i made sure everything was tightened to spec.
 
but its not using coolant its using oil. its not blue or black its white. i dont know what the hell the deal is. but it runs fine dont notice any power loss or anything. its just smoking a bit and using oil.
 
well white is coolant bottom line,, drive it for a good long time, and see if its still smoking white because moisture in the pipes will smoke white until its gone
 
well then where is my 1-2 quarts of oil a week going? and how does coolant get in my exhaust? this is driving me crazy.
 
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i babied it for about 500 miles then gradually started bringing the r's up, it was the middle of winter so i couldnt get on it too much anyways.
 
You dont have a very long period of time to get the rings seated right. My guess is that they didnt seat very good. What are you using for fuel management? I know poor tuning or lack of any can burn rings up too in modified engines such as yours.
 
yep.. its hard to believe.. but you need to drive the car harder on break-in, right Blanco??
 
yeah, i added some stp oil treatment and it stopped smoking so its oil for sure that i am smoking. i had a p73 itr ecu on it while i was waiting for my chipped p28 to get here i sold the p73 and am running a p30 right now the p28 was finnaly shipped back and should be here tomorrow. i will be running chrome. so, i will probably be looking at re-ringing the block? is there any tests or ways i can check if it is the rings? it doesnt feel like its lost any compression, could it be the head or head gasket? what should i check? i hate to tear the motor down and be out a car that long. i have split days off and work like 10 miles away its a bitch to be without my car that long. this really sucks.
 
I have had all motor setups that still had good compression due to the pistons, but the rings were shot, and the engine used alot of oil. You can do a compression test but that might not tell you alot, because if all of the rings didnt seat right you will probably still have a even reading across all cylinders. That can be misleading still. I am not sure of you mechanical ability but with that few of miles after fresh machine work you should be able to throw fresh rings in and be fine. If you do make sure to break it in properly, also maybe you should invest in a wideband 02 sensor to avoid lean coditions that can destroy rings quickly. Or for that matter throw new rings in and have it tuned profesionally right away. I would also invest in the endyn breather kit for the b series since they have alot of crankcase pressure from the high compression and rpms. It will give you better ring seal also. I am running it on my boosted ls/vtec with no smoke or oil use. When I broke my engine in for the first few miles I would speed up to 60 or so and down shift threw the gears with the throttle closed, this will force the rings up against the cylinder walls to seat them. From there I started tuning and had zero problems. Blanco is right driving softly or idleing for accessive amounts of time will wear the cross hatching and will cause poor seating and sealing.
 
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Blanco I dont know if I can fully understand this, are you saying you wanna break in the motor by going kinda rough and not babying the motor and letting it idle. Cause that will just make you loose your cross hatch faster and not let your rings seat faster right??????? Wait you said the cross hatch will use be worn at around 20 miles so you would wanna be rough with it in the first 20 miles than you wanna change your oil, after that do these steps in 4th gear-3 1/2 throttle runs, next 3 3/4 throttle runs, finally 3 Full throttle runs.
What if you dont use a dyno, I heard going up hill and what boostin said will help you break in the motor pretty good too.

Here my post is a mess ill make it easier, should you do the throttle runs before or after 20 miles or do you only wanna do it on a dyno?
 
Ya I read it but I just saw the street break in part after I posted it my bad. Is that the same way with break in a clutch??
 
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