350 hp d16z6

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kermit5327

Member
with a stock z6
arp head studs
450cc injecters
Fuel pressure regulater
td05h turbo with side mount intercooler
vacf2 controller
Walbro 255 fuel pump
and a base tune from phearable.net


would i be able to put out 350hp for a dd not any thing im gonna beat on hardcore or anything but something to have some fun with
 
you will possibly need larger injectors (450s MIGHT make it) and a bigger turbo. a dinky td05 is just going to throw hot air....
plus, a 3-bar map senssor because it will surely take more than 10 psi to get there, if it even can... and the sidemount isn't going to cool enough of that blown hot air, so you're going to dentonate or dump in more fuel to cool it, which means you need even more fuel.....

aka, probably not going to happen.

you're looking at a 225-250 whp set up.
 
A 225-250 whp set-up that probably won't last long if he's getting just a base tune rather than a custom tune.

250 whp is the strongest stock d-series I've heard of, and that's with a perfect tune. Anything past that and you'll need to beef up the internals. Like Blanco said, you'll have to beef up the internals but with a d-series, I don't think 350 whp would be a very fun daily driver you'd definitely need a stronger clutch. A b-series would probably be a more friendly daily driver with that power, but that's really pushing the d-series.

I was gonna go turbo also, and still might in the future but I'm saving up for a NX nitrous kit, the one that doesn't need any switches or buttons it's like as soon as you hit WOT the nitrous is activated and it's a 50, 60, 75 shot adjustable should be close to 200whp since NX measures their shots in WHP. Plus I think it'd be better because it's only activated when you want the extra power you won't be beating on your car all the time. Just saying, nitrous is always another option for CHEAP and easy power but I wouldn't push a d-series more than 75 shot, 100 MAX.
 
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I've seen a lot of turbo d's in my day. And none of them made 350whp with only 450cc injectors. One made 450whp with rc 1000cc injectors, and a crome tune on 28psi. But this setup was running a precision sc61 and a TT manifold, Tial 38mm wastegate, fmic etc. Bottom end was vitara/eagle with a stock z6 head. Engine lasted 3 months and them spun a bearing.
 
sure. it CAN be done, but:

A) it's not going to last very long
B) it surely had something at least twice the size of a td05h on it
C) certainly had larger injectors
D) was well tuned on the dyno


with your parts, you're not going to make it.
 
what would i be able to make my goal is 350 with the parts but what do you guys think i would be able to run safely 250 maybe 300 or lower
 
what would i be able to make my goal is 350 with the parts but what do you guys think i would be able to run safely 250 maybe 300 or lower

you're looking at a 225-250 whp set up.
B is one of the most knowledgable members on here. he just doesn't post much tech because he is tired of the same stuff being posted for the last 7 years or so.

if he says 225-250 he's probably right. and i agree with him. you have a small turbo, insufficient fuel, poor tuning, and too small of intercooler. you have budget parts, so expect budget power.

have you ever driven a 350hp civic? it's not a streetable car. if you want a track only car, you will need more power. you are right in the middle of being a purpose built car. if you simply want street power, 250whp will beat 95% of the cars on the street. believe me on this.
 
i'd use that turbo on a 175 whp project, not a 350 one.

you're going to need a larger turbo, a larger front mount, larger injectors, dyno time/street tuning with a custom map based on wideband and egt metering, a clutch that's capable of holding it (your stock one will roast within 10 miles) and that's all IF the block holds up :)
 
ok ok im not really looking for FAST just quick and the side mount is only temp till i can rig up something new for hondas im kinda trying to go for a real good sleeper look i mean my car is a 4 door with a half cage in it idk how much more sleeper you can get i mean im sure i can put some dents in it and primer it up but i want it to still look good ya know
 
unless you are running 10's, i don't think you need a cage. plus it takes away a lot from being a sleeper, most people who race know the track rules on cages.

if you want a sleeper turbo, just put on a front mount and paint it black. it's hard to see. and don't get a loud BOV.
 
In nj (and most other areas), if you go faster than 11.99 you need a full cage. Depending on how much faster you go from there, than the thickness of the bars will need to be increased. I've gotten thrown out of e-town after 1 pass with no cage going 10.91 (my first run on slicks).

The best thing for you to do is just keep your parts, buy some 440's and have it dyno tuned on 10psi. You should make 200whp or so on the stock engine. Upgrade the clutch and flywheel and call it a day. Be happy with what you make. If you wanna make big power, be prepared to spend not only a lot on the engine build, but even more on a decent turbo setup. I spent $4800 @ full-race for my kit and I could've parted it out and saved 1200 bucks but I needed the setup asap for IDRC and I didn't have the time to search parts.
 
11.99 and quicker, you need a roll bar
10.99 and quicker you need a full cage.

that's NHRA's rules
 
I was referring to the local tracks rules. I am pretty sure it varies from state to state. Those are E-town's rules unless recently changed. I do know if it is also a convertible, it must have a roll bar if it goes faster than 12.99. But 11.99 or faster must have a five point welded cage.
 
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