B16a

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Lee7pcNOOb

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OBD2a b16a Swap
Im thinking of going all motor or supercharged, sorry i dont have enough money to deal with turbo and the block rebuild for it. Motor has like 35k.

How hard is it to install Cams and cam gears? and would i need to do anything for my block if i just wanted to add cam, cam gears, and headers?

Ive searched and i saw an 8 lb super charger by Jackson Racing. I know superchargers bolt on etc... but would i need any block modification?

I searched the forums and couldnt find anything that would touch specifically on these 2 questions. It just a small concern because this is my daily driver and i dont want to do to much just a little modification.
 
Stock B16's can hold like 10 psi I think depending on the size of the turbo. PSI alone won't determine that but the amount of CFM of air flow.

I don't think you'll need to modify the block, but I don't have any hands-on experience with forced induction either.

The only thing you'd need block work for is forced induction, huge shot of nitrous, or if you were to stroke it.

Since you're doing headwork anyway, why not get a stronger set of valve springs, valves, seats, retainers, etc. so you can rev high all day long :D. And if you get a very aggressive cam, you'll need stronger springs to handle them. I'd just upgrade the entire valvetrain and get all the headwork done with a port n polish to open up some airflow.
 
Thx man, i wasnt really to shure on the forced induction thing i mean i understand it all but im in no finacial state to be dropping 10, and i figured it would make absolutely no sense to buy a 3gran turbo kit and throw it on there with no prep because in a year the stock internal may not be able to handle it. Id just like to start something from the ground up professionaly so i like the upgraded valve train idea.
 
I'd go with turbo. If you buy a kit, they usually come preset at 6-8 psi (and with a small turbo, like a t3/t4, t20 or t25) around a supercharger's 8 psi. The only difference is all you gotta do is buy a boost controller and turn it up later when and IF you decide you want to build the engine up when you can afford it. Also it works quite different too. A turbo uses exhaust gases which normally go to waste while a supercharger takes power to make more power, so turbo seems more efficient to me.

Supercharger: you're stuck with what you bought
Turbocharger: you can always build later and just turn up the boost
 
I'd go with turbo. If you buy a kit, they usually come preset at 6-8 psi (and with a small turbo, like a t3/t4, t20 or t25) around a supercharger's 8 psi. The only difference is all you gotta do is buy a boost controller and turn it up later when and IF you decide you want to build the engine up when you can afford it. Also it works quite different too. A turbo uses exhaust gases which normally go to waste while a supercharger takes power to make more power, so turbo seems more efficient to me.

Supercharger: you're stuck with what you bought
Turbocharger: you can always build later and just turn up the boost

So i can actually run a 12 lb turbo at like 6-8lbs and still be safe, that would probably be better until i decide to build up. But i know one night i will be like "Lets turn it up to 12 for one run" that will also be the night that ill be riding home is a 4 door 1988 box accord lol
 
A turbo setup or a supercharger are both forms of forced induction. Either way it's going to put stress on your motor. You can boost on a stock B16, just don't overdo it, and tune it well, and you'll be fine.
 
A turbo setup or a supercharger are both forms of forced induction. Either way it's going to put stress on your motor. You can boost on a stock B16, just don't overdo it, and tune it well, and you'll be fine.
thx for not crushing my noob ambitions
 
Cam swaps are pretty straight forward and covered in your repair manual. I think you'll have trouble getting more than one header on, though. ;)

How much horsepower do you want? That will determine what you need to do as far as building goes.
Yo blanco, thx, yea ive decided to scrap the turbo idea and start and all motor project well, im planning to upgrade my valve train.

i dont know how aggressive of a cam i need to get? stage 2?

also what valvetrains upgrades do i need to get to match stage 2 cams?
(retainers / springs/ and cam gears)

so with a valve train upgrade, headers, tuning with vafc... any estimate of how much that would get me?
 
you still dont know enough. your making uneducated decisions. nobody said a B16 can't handle boost.
 
Well i know that stock b16a's can handle up to 12 lbs, but this is my everyday car which means i need it to work reliably with no risks involed. I would do turbo if i have the money to make the block stronger. Im not going to take any risks until i buy a back up car.
 
i think the reason i called it headers is because of the 4 exhaust ports lol my eyes see 4 holes and the brain adds the s
 
HAHA GOTCHA.
Pretty stupid of me i swapped a motor but dont know the little things doh.

also just so you know my general cituation, my sohc blew and i had no choice but to get another engine so i decided to get a b16. i thought at first yea it would be cool to have a motor with a little bit more power and i wasnt going to do n e thing to it. But the more i keep looking at this site ive been really interested in getting more power, and its getting worst so that why im doing research. Ill probably start within the next week or so. ther eis a place called alamo autosports and jotech near buy i hear there were pretty good, ill let them do all of the work. I just wanted a better understanding because i dont want them to try to tell me i need something when i dont or try to talk me into purchasing way mroe than i should etc etc. there are lots of shady shop round these parts.
 
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Something to keep in mind is that things can and often do break when you modify your engine for more power. If anything, I think you should go with a small turbo setup for now.


So you think i would be fine with a greddy turbo kit, tuning running at 8psi? without modding block/head. turbo kit is a pretty easy install.
 
no to the kit.

piece together your own. buy the parts seperate. it'll probably cost less. you dont need 8psi to make decent power on a stock block. stock internals are 10.2:1 compression, so you wont need much boost. about 3-4psi (relative to the size turbo you get) should be suffice. that should put you a little over 200whp.

from my research, 8psi is pushing reliability just a little bit.

a pieced together setup is no different than a turbo kit on install.
 
no to the kit.

piece together your own. buy the parts seperate. it'll probably cost less. you dont need 8psi to make decent power on a stock block. stock internals are 10.2:1 compression, so you wont need much boost. about 3-4psi (relative to the size turbo you get) should be suffice. that should put you a little over 200whp.

from my research, 8psi is pushing reliability just a little bit.

a pieced together setup is no different than a turbo kit on install.


Ok i see what your saying, 3-4 psi on stock block, now what about fuel injectors / pump etc i know that if you run your turbo at 12 psi you need more fuel to combust at the right ratio with more air thats being forced in. would 3-4 psi call for getting bigger fuel injectors?

probably can find the parts on ebay as well. (
 
i have a 1997 ex, with a jdm b16a2 in it. i will check out the refernce section now. i was searching for turbos t3's t4's operating pressure 5~30 psi ebay for like 129 cheap..
 
Go to the Reference Section and read the article about putting a homemade turbo kit together. Or, you could go ahead and get a JRSC since superchargers like high compression. Remember that the JRSC kits were designed for stock engines, as are the GReddy and Edelbrock turbo kits.

Don't focus on PSI, focus on wheel horsepower (whp). A bone stock B16 can easily handle 250whp. You didn't mention what car you have, but in an EK hatchback that'll make you almost as fast a 2006 Shelby Cobra...on paper, anyway. The absolute most important aspect of this is going to be tuning. Do not skimp on tuning. You don't have to buy Hondata, Crome will work fine.


chrome on OBD2a p2t ecu? If im understanding correctly lets say i get a turbo natively 10lb, and the wastegate is also set to 10, can yo run that at 5?
Thx for all your help when i name my car i will name it blanco and my child too =)
 
Low boost my friend you keep saying 12, 10lbs. Keep it below 6 like has been said before. Remember the more you do to a motor to make bigger numbers the less reliable it becomes.
 
Low boost my friend you keep saying 12, 10lbs. Keep it below 6 like has been said before. Remember the more you do to a motor to make bigger numbers the less reliable it becomes.


I think i specifically put IF i get a turbo that can produce or operate normally between 5~30 ps 350 hp etc.... CAN i "specifically" run it at 4-5 ive already grasped the concept of low boost, like i said before.


n e ways thx blanco i think ill run the greddy emanage. time to start shopping ^^
 
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