Head build.

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efhondakid

My name is Byron.
I am starting work on my CRVtec build, I want to start with the head first. I wanna build for boost and would like to make 400-350 at the wheels and have a few questions about a few things. Im gonna have the head ported and milled down for head gasket sake. So what cams should I run? I have heard the GS-R cams work well. Im going to upgrade the valvetrain with Springs valves and retainers, I like the Omni stuff but as far as vavles go I am unsure about what type. High or standard comp. And would it be better to go with standard or oversize? I am also going to have the inake and head port matched, probably going to use the Skunk 2 intake which is made with specs close to the ITR intake correct? And I know that you should match TB to cam specs so what would be a good size if I use the GS-R cams? Injector size? I am going to start on the block once the head is done because I have it and I have the money to do it now.
 
I want to use a B20 bottom end, I was going to use my LS but it really isnt going to work now. lol. ( I think you saw the pics) Does anyone make rods, pistons, rod bolts for the B20. I want it to hold together. Crank and sleeves are good to what like 500 on a good tune arent they?
 
I want to use a B20 bottom end, I was going to use my LS but it really isnt going to work now. lol. ( I think you saw the pics) Does anyone make rods, pistons, rod bolts for the B20. I want it to hold together. Crank and sleeves are good to what like 500 on a good tune arent they?

The crankshaft, yes. The sleeves, no. CP makes a good piston and there is a mass variety of rods but my personal favorite would go, hands down, to Eagle. ARP makes rod bolts three times as strong as the oem rod bolts.
 
I know ARP and Eagle have very good reviews, I just wasnt sure if they made them for the B20. Who should I go through for sleeves. Dart make sleeves for this application? What about bearings?
 
Here's a good site to help with your sleeve questions. E-Catalog Index Page

I haven't seen ARP anything for the B20, though I can't remember how it goes, but for the head, you use somewhere around seven? bolts that match whichever VTEC head you use and then one that matches the block? I'm not sure if this is right as I just read it on a thread elsewhere once. LS could tell you more about that.

Dart makes blocks. DARTON makes sleeves. :D

There's your answer on the Eagle Rods...which of course even a little research would have yielded...
Honda/Acura Integra B18A/B DOHC non-VTEC (also CRV B20B/Z) 3/8" ARP 2000 Bolts-1.771 crank pin/.826 piston pin/.935 b.e. width C-C LENGTHNOTESGRAM WEIGHTPART NUMBER 5.394Stock510CRS5394A3D 5.531+.137520CRS5531A3D 5.862+.468N/ACRS5862A3D 5.967+.573555CRS5967A3D 6.243+.849N/ACRS6243A3D
Here is the site where I got that information from..Eagle Connecting Rods Application Guide
Now then, it's time to research the hell out of your build. Ready, set, GO! This should give you a good start. Good luck on your build.

Have you done any research on this at all yet by the way?
 
GOOD: Darton MID Sleeves are definitly the way to go they completely replace the cylinders
and are made with a block gaurd built in so they do not move. You can also get
almost any bore size you want with none of the complications of overboring. they
are also tested up to 30 PSI boost with no leakage.

BAD: MUST be installed by a Machine Shop with a CNC machine, really no other option. Make
sure the shop you use has people who have performed the work multiple times not an
easy task.

Ugly: PRICE $1000-$1500 for sleeves
$800-$1500 for install
$1800-$3000 total for new sleeves

PRICELESS: knowing your block is now bullet proof!!

as far as internals there are many parts for b20's being made since they are the stronger block for making ls/vtec's.
 
I found one, ONE, motor in my area. $750 for 250xxx miles. :mad:. Would this be a good idea? Because one from PasswordJDM is like 800 shipped to me. I will be rebuilding it anyways but the only thing Im worried about is the crank being in good shape. I dont want to get it and have to have it turned and oversized bearings put in it as this build is already costing me a pretty penny.
 
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I calculated a rough cost for the build and grand total has brought me to right around $7500-8000 for everthing. This sound about right, just asking from people who have experience.
 
Buy my block! It's sleeved to 85.5mm (can punch to 86mm easily) and is setup for an 89mm crank, but with all GSR hardware (girdle) in a GSR block.
 
Buy my block! It's sleeved to 85.5mm (can punch to 86mm easily) and is setup for an 89mm crank, but with all GSR hardware (girdle) in a GSR block.

Sleeved GSR block, Cal? Dare I ask how much? *raises eyebrow*

I calculated a rough cost for the build and grand total has brought me to right around $7500-8000 for everthing. This sound about right, just asking from people who have experience.


How much are you figuring to spend on the head, parts, labor included?
 
I haven't really thought about a total price- it all depends on what you want with it. It's basically a complete blueprinted engine with busted pistons from a bad tune. PM me and we'll talk about it if you're genuinely interested!

But yeah, basically:

Golden Eagle sleeved B18C1 block
85.5mm bore
89mm crank
Endyn oil squirter blockoffs
really really well spec'd OEM bearings with 5k miles (all the EXACT same clearance)
Probe Ultralite rods
B16A head with ITR LMAs and Skunk2 cam gears
Fidanza 7.5lb flywheel
ACT HD/SS clutch mounted with 20k miles, plus another complete extra with tons of meat and 30k miles

That's what I can spew off the top of my head.
 
I haven't really thought about a total price- it all depends on what you want with it. It's basically a complete blueprinted engine with busted pistons from a bad tune. PM me and we'll talk about it if you're genuinely interested!

But yeah, basically:

Golden Eagle sleeved B18C1 block
85.5mm bore
89mm crank
Endyn oil squirter blockoffs
really really well spec'd OEM bearings with 5k miles (all the EXACT same clearance)
Probe Ultralite rods
B16A head with ITR LMAs and Skunk2 cam gears
Fidanza 7.5lb flywheel
ACT HD/SS clutch mounted with 20k miles, plus another complete extra with tons of meat and 30k miles

That's what I can spew off the top of my head.

^^^That engine made a lot of power, too.

Scott, I know that I can trust your word, as you and I talk...or rather, type to each other on a regular basis and Calesta, I have read a gazibillion of your posts and trust your word as well. I'm somewhat intimidated to PM you? Yes, something like that. haha That's how I felt, though I never told you, whenever I sent you a message for the first time, Scott. I don't really like to bother people but do enjoy a good, smart conversation with anyone at any time. ESPECIALLY if I know that the person has prior knowledge of the topic being discussed. With that, Cal.....:D
 
^^^That engine made a lot of power, too.

:D I was shooting for 250-260whp on pump gas with the head complete, but alas- never finished.

Scott, I know that I can trust your word, as you and I talk...or rather, type to each other on a regular basis and Calesta, I have read a gazibillion of your posts and trust your word as well. I'm somewhat intimidated to PM you? Yes, something like that. haha That's how I felt, though I never told you, whenever I sent you a message for the first time, Scott. I don't really like to bother people but do enjoy a good, smart conversation with anyone at any time. ESPECIALLY if I know that the person has prior knowledge of the topic being discussed. With that, Cal.....:D

Hey, I'm human, just like everyone else. ;)
 
Ok, maybe off topic, if so Im sorry. Anyways, which set of rods is the better value, or "has more bang for the buck" if you will, Tuner Toys B18/B20 or the Eagle counter-part? I see that Eagle is a lil more expensive, but are you paying for more quality or the name on the box?
 
Ok, maybe off topic, if so Im sorry. Anyways, which set of rods is the better value, or "has more bang for the buck" if you will, Tuner Toys B18/B20 or the Eagle counter-part? I see that Eagle is a lil more expensive, but are you paying for more quality or the name on the box?

Eagle hands down. You are buying rods that had hours and hours of R&D as well as test proven to withstand 'x' amount of power before breaking.
 
GOOD: Darton MID Sleeves are definitly the way to go they completely replace the cylinders
and are made with a block gaurd built in so they do not move. You can also get
almost any bore size you want with none of the complications of overboring. they
are also tested up to 30 PSI boost with no leakage.

BAD: MUST be installed by a Machine Shop with a CNC machine, really no other option. Make
sure the shop you use has people who have performed the work multiple times not an
easy task.

Ugly: PRICE $1000-$1500 for sleeves
$800-$1500 for install
$1800-$3000 total for new sleeves

PRICELESS: knowing your block is now bullet proof!!

as far as internals there are many parts for b20's being made since they are the stronger block for making ls/vtec's.

Are you buying these sleeves from GOD himself? My machinist charged me $1200 to sleeve my block a few years ago. Sleeves were Darton, and he had to line bore it to get my desired bore.
 
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