rebuilding for boost

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8ballsin

8ballsin

New Member
first of all i have a D16A6 completely tore apart i am going to rebuild it and i want to boost it i have never done anything like this before so i nned some help what are the things i should change i am assuming cam, pistions, valves but i dont know what would be the better brands i am looking to spend about $1000 on parts i am doing all the work myself
 
what are your power goals???
your not going to get far with 1g...
in any rebuild you need all new bearings,seals,gaskets,hardware(bolts,nuts,washers)
then a hone,and its good idea to have the block checked for problems
 
the block is fine it only had a blown head gasket that i done im in germany so its kinda hard to get shit done for cheap so im doing all the work myself in the auto shop here on the army post the block has been cleaned and the only thing is the head i have to choices i can rebuild my head or i can put on the vtec head i have one here the reason i havent swapped them yet was because ive heard that when you boost a vtec it fucks shit up but didnt know for sure
 
You heard wrong. It's fine to boost on a VTEC engine. You just need to make sure it's tuned well, but that should be a necessity for any turbo build anyway...
 
8ballsin said:
the block is fine it only had a blown head gasket that i done im in germany so its kinda hard to get shit done for cheap so im doing all the work myself in the auto shop here on the army post the block has been cleaned and the only thing is the head i have to choices i can rebuild my head or i can put on the vtec head i have one here the reason i havent swapped them yet was because ive heard that when you boost a vtec it fucks shit up but didnt know for sure
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ok so power goals??
 
Sleeve the block and then take it from there.
Eagle rods are good for its price.
Arias turbo pistons are definately a good choice.

If you plan on building it for that much Hp you will need to spend top dollar and that way you can make good boost. $1,000 is nothing for trying to gain that much horse power. Thats just enough to get you some pistons and rods.
 
Blanco said:
You don't need to touch the valves unless they're bent, burned up, or otherwise not seating properly. You can find out if they're seating properly by shining a flash light into the ports while the valves are closed, if you can see light they aren't sealing fully.
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Good information Scott, but your method of checking the seats isnt exactly sufficient enough. When the engine is under load is when the seats take the beating. A cylinder leakage test would be the correct method. Although your method will work IF they are severely unseated. :thumbsup:
 
i am doing the same build and if you are going to keep your budget to 1000 u wont do it
and the vtec head is a great idea because it adds like 20 to 30 hp automaticly but the biggest thing is the tune after you bolt on a turbo and dont run over 16-18psi or you will blow your motor
 
sevenhillsbilly, keep in mind PSI means nothing. If your engine only makes 200whp on 20psi due to the tiny blow dryer under the hood than its fine. Now on the other hand if you have a massive 60-1 under the hood, 20psi would definately toast your stock engine. 10psi on that engine with that much larger turbo will make more power than the smaller snail on double the boost. Fuel Tuning is key.
 
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