Head Gasket Swap, now no start

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shaky6

That's BadAsstic!!!
So here is the deal, I am an LS2 GTO guy but my brother has a 00 Civic SI and I am trying to help him out cause I am THAT great of a brother, and he doesn't have internet at his place yet. So here it goes for all you motorheads out there that know about these things because my car has a tranny that points to my rear differential.

He blew his head gasket cause he is a tard. So, naturally next, he replaced it. The dang thing won't start. He and his buddy swear to Allah that the timing gears and distributor are all lined up nicely n such and that every thing is wired correctly. He checked his plugs and has spark, but he is not getting even a misfire. Yes, fuel is flowing because he keeps flooding the IC. Any ideas out there? I do believe he has a B16A2 from what I looked up in the list on this site. When you get more than one camshaft and it goes on top of the head and not in the engine, I really have no idea. I thought the timing was seriously out, like 180 degrees, but what do I know. Thanks guys, and maybe we'll run into eachother at Gateway someday!
 
Well, if it was slightly off it would run, but like shit. If its 180* off, I don't see it even starting.
 
Here was my thinking, when I watched them install the cam gears, it looked like there were marks on the top AND bottom and his buddy, who went to community college for automotive, did the timing. He said, do two complete turns, check some stuff, do a half turn, blah blah, but when I watched him do the turns it looked like he only did one and a half. So that's why I think its 180 out. He may have mistaken the bottom marks for the top marks. Does that even make sense?
 
this is what you do... put the number 1 cylender at top dead center.. you do this by pullin the spark plug wire and plug out of the cylender closest to the timming belt and stick your (clean) dipstick down the cylender. then manually crank the motor by putting i think its a 17mm socket on the pully at the bottom of the motor untill the dipstick is all the way to the top. then the cam gears have 2 arrows that say up on them.. make sure that both of those are pointed up and with the clyender at top dead center and the arrows pointed up your car should run.. it def. sounds like a timming issue i went through the same thing when i changed mine. let me know how it goes.
 
projectteg said the exact same thing i was goin to say. altho for future reference a haynes manual isn't too expensive and has alot of great info on the whole car, plus its good reading material for them long nights in the bathroom:D
 
this is what you do... put the number 1 cylender at top dead center.. you do this by pullin the spark plug wire and plug out of the cylender closest to the timming belt and stick your (clean) dipstick down the cylender. then manually crank the motor by putting i think its a 17mm socket on the pully at the bottom of the motor untill the dipstick is all the way to the top. then the cam gears have 2 arrows that say up on them.. make sure that both of those are pointed up and with the clyender at top dead center and the arrows pointed up your car should run.. it def. sounds like a timming issue i went through the same thing when i changed mine. let me know how it goes.

Your method is completely idiotic.

All you have to do is make sure the arrow on the crankshaft pulley is facing upward and that the pistons in cylinder #1 and #4 are at TDC (top dead center), meaning at the top of the cylinder bore. Than once you do that take a look at your cam gears and make sure your timing marks are pointing straight up on the gears. Once everything is even, put the belt on and tighten the tensioner bolt. Than use a timing gun and make sure your timing is correct.
 
Also, when you spin the crank manually, you can do it with the spark plugs still in. It just spins easier when the plugs are out.
 
Your method is completely idiotic.

All you have to do is make sure the arrow on the crankshaft pulley is facing upward and that the pistons in cylinder #1 and #4 are at TDC (top dead center), meaning at the top of the cylinder bore. Than once you do that take a look at your cam gears and make sure your timing marks are pointing straight up on the gears. Once everything is even, put the belt on and tighten the tensioner bolt. Than use a timing gun and make sure your timing is correct.

no need to be an asshole! my method worked great for me.. that is what it told me to do when i searched it on honda-tech..first try and my car ran great, i didnt even need a timming gun.. so eat shit.
 
no need to be an asshole! my method worked great for me.. that is what it told me to do when i searched it on honda-tech..first try and my car ran great, i didnt even need a timming gun.. so eat shit.

Your method clearly seperates certified technicians from grease monkeys. :)
 
:werd:

I think he might be thinking of valve lash, though I'm still not overly fond of that method for setting lash either.


Valve Lash .006 on the Int. .008 Ex
For the proper method on setting the valve lash adjustments reffer to maintenance manual. I set valve adjustments all the time for my customers but its a pain in the A$$ to explain the process. It all needs to be done by sequence not all the way across at once and its best when adjusted cold don't recommend doing it warm has to be fully cold cause if you do it when hot or warm once you finish when car gets cold the valves usually expand and will have closed valves.
Sequence is done 1-3-4-2 but you also have to turn the crankshaft after each adjustment has been made. You have to start off by setting the timing to TDC. To make the long story short use the repair manual, Good Luck!
 
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