need help on where to start first

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trash man

trash man

who put the "S" in lisp?
well after about 2 months of searching, i finally found my donor...a '93 si hatch that's bone stock. i'm in the process of swapping in a built b18 but i'm stuck as to what the first job to do should be. i was thinking about doing bodywork (fixing rusty quarters, needs new fender and window trim), a brake upgrade and doing the suspension work, then motor/turbo, then paint. do you all think this is a logical route or should i do the motor stuff first and get it out of the way? i also have a few questions that i hoped i could get some insight on....

1. i can't decide which would be better - the edelbrock victor x intake manifold or the skunk2 pro. and with a bigger im should i also run a bigger throttle body?

2. do they make a toda timing belt for a b18b1? i found the gsr part, but are they interchangeable?

3. i'm lost as to what clutch to get. are they rated by hp or torque? i was hoping to make about 300-330 hp...what stage clutch would you guys go with?

4. would a type r water pump and type r oil pump be recomended?

5. stock or cometic head gasket?

6. my tuner is saying that i need an adjustable FPR if i'm going to boost over 11 psi. i thought a tuned ecu and the right injectors handled this. am i way off?

i think that about covers it...any and all advice/input is very much appreciated.
 
a civic with alot of power and a stock suspension sucks balls. Trust me I know. Do the suspension first, then move on to power.
 
You really only need an adjustable fpr when you have a fuel pump thats flowing alot more than stock. It overwhelms the stock fpr, so pressure builds up more than it should. If you are pushing an insane amount of power, then you might need to actually up the pressure over stock. For me at 250 whp, stock pressure is fine.
 
weird....
Not to thread jack... but I have the same walbro 190, and the car was running really rich afterwards. It was running like 15 psi more than stock. I first tried another stock fpr to fix it.. nothing.. I got an aem adjustable one to turn the pressure back to stock.
 
i appreciate the replies folks....and i think i'm gonna go ahead and start rocking on the suspension and brakes first. regarding the brakes, my plan was some brembo blanks, hawk pads, and some earl's lines. has anyone swapped out the master cylinder for a bigger one before? and can anyone recomend a good clutch?
 
Blanco said:
That doesn't make any sense at all and you're the first person I've ever seen with that problem.
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Figures... lol

The Exedy Stage 1 clutch is awesome. For me, its held up to my agressive driving at power levels way past its rated capacity for 2 years.
 
I love my Action Clutch 2KS. holds up to ~450ft/lbs torque and it's a full face clutch disc, so it's very streetable. Dual diaphram pressure plate.

I suggest just Autozone blanks. Duralast has a warrenty against warpage. And they cost so little.

Clutch master cylinder or brake master cylinder?
 
i was thinking maybe another brake master cylinder would swap with the EG one. i already have 4-wheel disc which is nice because that saves me from doing a rear disc conversion. and how can you tell if your car has abs or not? would anything on the vin specify something like that or is there an easier way to tell?
 
trash man said:
how can you tell if your car has abs or not? would anything on the vin specify something like that or is there an easier way to tell?
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Your car doesnt. But the easiest way to tell is to look at the hub assembly, if it has a wire coming out from the wheel bearing it has ABS, if it has those wires on the front you only have front wheel ABS, if they are on the front and rear you have 4-wheel ABS.

Hey Blanco, correct me if Im wrong but isnt the GSR water pump a 22 tooth while the LS is 18, if he puts the GSR water pump on the LS Im pretty sure things would get ugly inside that motor.
 
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