Need Help On Choice Of Cams???!!!!

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boston-sol77

New Member
ok well i sent my head out to get cnc port and polished and also flowbenched so i can find the perfect cams. the flow doesnt really peak off till .500" lift or 12.7mm lift. anyone know of good cams that will work with this. and its gonna be NA for right now. here is the flow chart. i was thinking about going with toda racing cams cuz they peak at 12.5mm so it would be close enough and i havent heard the best things about skunk2 valvetrain products. anyone have any other thoughts??????
 

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Because those cams are all but race cams, as is your head work.

well i mean dont get me wrong i am planning to make this car into a serious build car but still drive it on the street too. plus i dont think the company had any other "stages" on their PnP jobs. i got it done at a place that is cnc port and polish and i told them that it was gonna be a street/strip car. you think im gonna have problems???? or are you just worried about the whole emissions part or it???
 
You know what, go ahead and build your purpose built race engine for a street car. You'll find out what I mean soon enough. :)

im not disregarding your opinion i just wanted to know what you mean by how its only a race car configuration??? i mean thats the whole reason why i asked is to find out whats gonna happen lol. can you help me out before i go on with this build kinda flying blind??? cuz i really would rather have someone tell me what im doing wrong or what i can do otherwise before i cost myself alot of money.
 
ok so do you suggest i dont get it PnP'd???? and just buy a good set of cams for that??? just wanna see what people think or what has been the best response they have seen from any kind of head upgrades. cuz if i dont get it PnP'd then that means ill have about a good 1000 bucks i can blow on just cams and springs. any suggestions?
 
a set JUN 3 camshafts will make you happy. Awesome idle and make power all across the rpm range!!!
 
How bout this? Buy a stock head throw some gsr cams on that a dc header, cai, and exhaust on your car. then Build a full race motor. I mean having the work already done you might as well keep the good right? But like Blanco said 6,000-9,000 rpms daily driving will not only eat your gas, but it will eat your stock valvetrain, and rods. Better yet after you buy yourself a stock b16 head find yourself a b20 block and build yourself a badass n/a motor.
 
your point??

My point was to question why someone would create a screen name for themselves consisting of a slang term for feces...but hey, whatever floats your boat...Dookie...
 
btw, you cant technically build a super bad ass NA motor like your describing, and then have future plans for turbo...

and its gonna be NA for right now.

if you honestly want a street/strip car that's gonna last, go turbo now. still go with a milder pnp, and some mild high lift short duration cams. turn the turbo down for the street and up for the strip. do lots of research in the cams and find something with a powerband that suits more street. you'll still be happy i'm sure, possibly 250+whp on high boost. if your also in the block, and can sleeve it with forged rods and pistons, all the better. easy ~350+...
 
Well I'm glad that my screenname caught your attention there buddy........

anywayz, back to the topic...

the buddy club spec 4+ are also badass camshafts are you could just go to allmotorhonda.com and check out alot of cam specs and what builds they were used on.
 
btw, you cant technically build a super bad ass NA motor like your describing, and then have future plans for turbo...

Not true at all. All you have to do is change the cams/pistons/injectors and have it tuned. I know, Ive done it. The result... 551whp @ 22psi, c12.
 
Mild PNP, do the valvetrain with dual valve springs, bronze guides, titanium retainers, dont go with flat valves, but go with oversized on the intake valves. Skunk2 Pro2's would be perfect for a street car NA setup. Plus the usual aftermarket IM/TB, 310cc injectors, fuel pump and a quality header. Hytech, SMSP, RAGE etc. Get a good tune on crome/hondata and your set.
 
i shoulda left the other part of the sentence in that i had typed out but deleted for some reason.

i ment to say, it's not feasible to build a bad ass NA motor and then go turbo. unless yes, you wanted to rebuild it AGAIN. up to the builder if he wants to spend the extra money on those parts twice and time..
 
""""""""""""""""Whoever said "there is no replacement for displacement" never tried to build a honda motor. """""""""""""""""""""""""""""" loving it, one of the best lines i've read so far!!!!



How bout this? Buy a stock head throw some gsr cams on that a dc header, cai, and exhaust on your car. then Build a full race motor. I mean having the work already done you might as well keep the good right? But like Blanco said 6,000-9,000 rpms daily driving will not only eat your gas, but it will eat your stock valvetrain, and rods. Better yet after you buy yourself a stock b16 head find yourself a b20 block and build yourself a badass n/a motor.
 
A real answer

For street/strip build a motor that has "all" bolt on's and stage 2 cams, upgrade fuel, springs, retainers, rods, replace worn internal parts, rings, bearings, etc.

I was happy with this set up in my k20a2 dc5
 
I was wondering the same thing stock injectors will be fine with the stage 2 cams.

By they way I am glad you like my signature.
 
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