Best mods for b20b 92 teg

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reaper30

New Member
Well i have purchased my first 4 cyl ride it bein a 92 teg wit a b20b swap. It has stg4 clutch straight 2 1/2in exhaust to muff in back (too loud) n a cheap lookin intake lol. Wonderin which direction i should go wit this. What mods should i def get n which should i def stay away from. The more feedback the better as i dont know much bout these cars at all yet. Thanks alot.
 
Stage 4 clutch is some extreme overkill.

:werd:

There's absolutely no reason for a stage 4 clutch with the mods you listed. I bet it's not very fun to drive...

Anyway, as far as which modifications to get, you're going to have to provide a little more information for us. What are your goals for the car? Specific power number? Daily driver or track car?

Answer these questions and then we can help you out better...
 
Sorry folks the clutch was in car when i bought it so theres nothin i can do bout that. Car will be mostly daily driver n would like to run some strong 12's maybe a high 11 one day lol. Motor will remain stock internals for awhile as well. An your right its a pain to drive at times.
 
For a 12-second daily driver I'd probably first look into adding a VTEC head, and then a turbo setup down the road. Sleeves and/or forged internals while you've got the engine apart for the head swap wouldn't be a bad idea either...
 
If VTEC is too expensive then turbo is probably out of the question. Without either a B20/VTEC conversion or a turbo setup I seriously doubt you're going to see 12 seconds. Those kind of times aren't really something you can accomplish with intake and exhaust bolt-on type of mods...
 
I agree with Brutal here it is relatively cheap in the honda world to swap a head, so if that is out of the question and you want more power you better up your budget. You already have the cheap mods done. If you want 12's swap the head for a gsr head, turbo it, and do the forged internals like he said too. They will save you money in the long run. Its funny how people expect to make such and such time with no money into the car.
 
I dont expect to make any such n such time with the car dude i jus said thats what i would like to run. Plus u can turbo for dang near if not same as vtec n make tons more power. Id rather spend 700 for turbo n pick up 100hp then 600 at least on head swap for 30hp. THanks for the replys everyone.
 
If you can turbo a car for close to or as cheap as a vtec head swap I would like to crown you king of stupidty. either you have a shitty turbo kit or an expensive ass head. If you can work on your own car you can easily do a vtec head swap in an hour or two for well under $500 depending on price of the ecu.
 
depending on the condition, its not wise to be adding a turbo because its not just that easy. You still gotta tune it with hondata or something similar, telling us how much of a budget your looking to do is alot better then just assuming a Head swap is out of the question. Im assuming since your saying 700 for a turbo kit, your talking about ebay, be warned since i already went that path that they dont bolt up right, most dont even fit non vtec heads, and the IC tubing needs to be modified and the down pipe is garbage, on top of finding all the loose ends to make the thing work


FYI i did a B20 swap with a GSR head on my 91 and it cost me 700 total for the block computer and head. To make that kind of power you need to shell out atleast a couple more grand. Im doing crower cams, valves, retainers, springs, and forged pistons with a 100 shot setup im told im only gonna be making around 270-280
 
thats just what some of the ebay kits say them selves, is that this will only fit Vtec integras, etc, it didnt make alotta sense to me why it would be different
 
Lil more than 500 n i know ebay kit arent wonderful but wit lil added mods can be decent

"just buy a vtec head" as simply stated is not just that, "simple". You cant just drop a vtec head down on the bottom end. You have to plug the oil passage in the vtec head and open another channel on the side of the head. Add a sandwhich plate to the oil filter tap on the block and run the SS line to the new opening you made on the head. Its easy but comes with a 250 from GE + the 500 or so you just paid for the head. So your already at 750bucks price tag. While you think thats the end of it. You cant just use the GE head gasket. Well you could but you should use the HG that matches the block not the head. The vtec HG sort of blocks the opening of an oil passage a bit and causes oil build up and eventually you get an oil leak. So after spending 250 on the kit you have to spend another 75 on a OEM LS or in your case b20 gasket. Then you have to get the dowel pin holes redrilled to be able to fit the conversion pins another 35 bucks. The kit also comes with the tap to plug the oil channel in the head but is rec. to get that welded shut do to leaking. So if you ever want to sell that head you have to sell the oil sandwhich plate to go with it so they can get oil in the head. which is problematic and is not going to sell easy.

So you spendt 500 + 250 + 75 + 35 = 860 bucks on a stock vtec head. For roughly 30hp. And im hoping you can do the work or its going to cost you a lot more. So with a b20 with a say b16 head your looking at something like 160whp. with screaming high 11.5 CP ratio and a tune. You want more hp then you get type r parts. It is possible to get 200whp out of a b20vtec with type r internals and high CP. Tuning will be a big part in reaching that number. Now are you whiling to spend all this money on a motor has a low reliablity rating? That is just to get a vtec head on there. Then you need a vtec ECU. adj cam gears to get the timing right or you will be a tooth off always. Also 310cc fuel injectors ect. all before you get this thing running.

The block you need vtec pumps, I would opt for a GSR oil pan system and ARP head studs. At the very least forged rods.

There is no point in adding a vtec head if your not going to rev it up. Which unfortunatly is the down fall of the b20/lsvtec. rod stroke ratio is to long for it. puts pressure on the bottom of your cylinder walls and can crack them.

You got a b20 just look into boosting it. Sleeve it forge it and boost it. I would start with a b18 which you can still go lsvtec if you have your heart set on it, but atleast if you blow it up you can rebuild the same block.
 
Lil more than 500 n i know ebay kit arent wonderful but wit lil added mods can be decent

That makes no sense whatsoever...

What "lil added mods" are going to make an E-Bay turbo kit more reliable? What inexpensive thing can you do that will make a cheap, badly-designed manifold less likely to crack? What inexpensive thing can you do that prevent the shoddy seals on the turbo from crapping out?

Are you basically admitting that E-Bay turbo kits are kinda shitty, and that you need to replace some of the parts with better ones before you install them? If that's the case, then why the hell wouldn't you just buy better quality parts to begin with?

You're also not considering the tuning that will be required. I very much doubt that a $700 turbo kit is going to come with any worthwhile tuning solution, if any at all. Figure another $300 AT LEAST (probably more) for tuning software and dyno time.

Oh, and by the way, don't see this argument as me advocating a VTEC head over turbo. All I'm saying is, whatever you choose to do, spend some money and do it right the first time...
 
nitrous. tune it for a 120shot. get some slicks, and drive it like you stole it! trust me, i have beat down some crazy cars on the bottle
 
Lil more than 500 n i know ebay kit arent wonderful but wit lil added mods can be decent

"just buy a vtec head" as simply stated is not just that, "simple". You cant just drop a vtec head down on the bottom end. You have to plug the oil passage in the vtec head and open another channel on the side of the head. Add a sandwhich plate to the oil filter tap on the block and run the SS line to the new opening you made on the head. Its easy but comes with a 250 from GE + the 500 or so you just paid for the head. So your already at 750bucks price tag. While you think thats the end of it. You cant just use the GE head gasket. Well you could but you should use the HG that matches the block not the head. The vtec HG sort of blocks the opening of an oil passage a bit and causes oil build up and eventually you get an oil leak. So after spending 250 on the kit you have to spend another 75 on a OEM LS or in your case b20 gasket. Then you have to get the dowel pin holes redrilled to be able to fit the conversion pins another 35 bucks. The kit also comes with the tap to plug the oil channel in the head but is rec. to get that welded shut do to leaking. So if you ever want to sell that head you have to sell the oil sandwhich plate to go with it so they can get oil in the head. which is problematic and is not going to sell easy.

So you spendt 500 + 250 + 75 + 35 = 860 bucks on a stock vtec head. For roughly 30hp. And im hoping you can do the work or its going to cost you a lot more. So with a b20 with a say b16 head your looking at something like 160whp. with screaming high 11.5 CP ratio and a tune. You want more hp then you get type r parts. It is possible to get 200whp out of a b20vtec with type r internals and high CP. Tuning will be a big part in reaching that number. Now are you whiling to spend all this money on a motor has a low reliablity rating? That is just to get a vtec head on there. Then you need a vtec ECU. adj cam gears to get the timing right or you will be a tooth off always. Also 310cc fuel injectors ect. all before you get this thing running.

The block you need vtec pumps, I would opt for a GSR oil pan system and ARP head studs. At the very least forged rods.

There is no point in adding a vtec head if your not going to rev it up. Which unfortunatly is the down fall of the b20/lsvtec. rod stroke ratio is to long for it. puts pressure on the bottom of your cylinder walls and can crack them.

You got a b20 just look into boosting it. Sleeve it forge it and boost it. I would start with a b18 which you can still go lsvtec if you have your heart set on it, but atleast if you blow it up you can rebuild the same block.


Okay like I said yet again. If you can do the work yourself than you can do a vtec head swap for very cheap. I have found b16 and gsr heads for around $150. But if you are worried about spending $840 on a vtec head but you will spend $700+ on an ebay kit that will require in your words "minor mods" plus a good tune to keep your motor running so for those power gains you will spend just as much if not more for about the same power increase. I'm not entirely sure because I like my sohc motors but b-series motors can probably hold 300-350 hp at the very most, So throwing a turbo on a stock motor without those "minor mods" you mentioned and a good tune, which if you can't do it yourself runs between $50-$100 per hour of tuning. So I won't add the mods and go with that $50 an hour quote. But the total of an ebay kit would be at the very least over $800 just for the kit and tune. Now keep in mind with that kit you will probably want a boost gauge, boost controller, injectors, and whatever other minor mods you are speaking of. Keep in mind that turbo pushing about 5 psi will give you 40 horses. Okay well if you turn up the boost, you will take that reliability rating you spoke of and plummet it into the ground. I personally will take my vtec b20/vtec over an ebay turbo kit anyday. But thanks for humoring me with your lengthy explanation of how throwing an EBAY turbo kit on a motor is more reliable, and cheaper than a vtec head swap. Just for kickers, I almost bought a b16 head for $150 just a month ago but I have a d-series motor and didn't wanna deal with buying the head to turn around and sell it.
 
Well there ya go its even more expensive than I thought. So in other words sorry to be a dick but shut up noob and listen. A vtec head is worth the cash to shell out. If you are so budget minded save yourself a shit ton of money and don't touch an ebay kit, but if you don't wanna take my word for it sucks for you. You can have fun cracking manifolds, and blowing seals. Just take my word for it, if you have any "wrench turning" ability as Blanco put it go to a junkyard and find a gsr, b16 or b17 head pull it off take it home clean it up real nice, check if it is warped or not, buy what you need for it and put it on there. Keep in mind you can run a vtec head on that b20 block without swapping the ecu it just won't run vtec but you will notice performance gains.
 
ebay kits arent all that great i have one in my car and i spent an extra $200 on that shyty ass downpip which i regreat saying failed.it cracked im boosting 12psi daily and im worried if i beat up on the car too much the mani would come apart.the only thing thats really ebay left on the turbo kit is the --turbo,wastegate,oil lines,and mani other then that i changed the BOV,ECU,Vacum Lines,and other misc stuff so rougly about $300 extra on faulty parts from ebay
 
But thanks for humoring me with your lengthy explanation of how throwing an EBAY turbo kit on a motor is more reliable, and cheaper than a vtec head swap.

Yeah, do you like how he thought it was necessary for some reason to give a detailed explanation of how to build an LS/VTEC? Like the knowledgeable people on this site didn't already know that? It was copied from some website's FAQ section, I'm sure...

ebay kits arent all that great i have one in my car and i spent an extra $200 on that shyty ass downpip which i regreat saying failed.it cracked im boosting 12psi daily and im worried if i beat up on the car too much the mani would come apart.the only thing thats really ebay left on the turbo kit is the --turbo,wastegate,oil lines,and mani other then that i changed the BOV,ECU,Vacum Lines,and other misc stuff so rougly about $300 extra on faulty parts from ebay

That was the exact point I was trying to make above. If you need to spend at least $300 on replacement parts just to make an E-Bay turbo kit semi-reliable, then why not just buy quality stuff to begin with?
 
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