boost and suspension

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MJ93Hatchback

New Member
I wasn't sure rather this should go in the forced induction or the suspension forum but here goes...I am sure some of you that have replied to my other post's already know what i am planning on doing...but my plan is to maybe boost up to about 300whp...my questions is about the suspension...I will prob. get suspension eventually anyways, but will my stock suspension be able to hold up with that, and if not what would be the safest hp to boost to without having to change my suspension? My set up is going to be a rebuilt (for boost) d16z6 with a t3/t4 turbo if that helps any and i have a 93 Hatch this will all be going in...
 
Your stock suspension is going to be fine no matter how much you are putting down. It just won't be any fun because its going to wheel hop like a bitch and a fast car that cant handle isn't a fun car IMO.
 
tein coilovers (flex with edfc ftw!), or kyb struts and ground control springs.

Civic 92-95 axels [The Driveshaft Shop]

a set of slicks for the race track, w/ rims

strengthened lower control arms

front/rear camber kit (i recommend buddy club p1)

strut tower bar, oem works

polyurathane motor mounts!

polyurathane bushings where possible or by personal preference for comfort
 
Your stock suspension is going to be fine no matter how much you are putting down. It just won't be any fun because its going to wheel hop like a bitch and a fast car that cant handle isn't a fun car IMO.

so for now since I am on a budget, what's the minimum I could do just for now, i'll further into it all later, but at the minimum what should I get... maybe just axles like the other guy said? or do i need all that stuff listed above... I mean I plan on doing everything right...and I don't want to skip over suspension, but wanted to know what would be the best to start off with untill I can do everything else
 
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Start with good motor mounts. The stock squishy ones are going to allow the motor to move around alot, causing wheel hop. In addition, they will break sooner than later with 300 hp. Doing the mounts when you do the swap is alot easier than after the fact.

You should be fine on the stock axels for now. If and when they break, get the Autozone OE replacement ones with a lifetime warrantee. As long as you don't beat on the car all the time/ run slicks/ launch hard all the time you should be fine.

If you are going to eventually get a nice suspension, just wait for that. Half assing it is only going to waste time and money.
 
right on man, sounds good...and yeah I am going to TRY and nto run it so hard all the time, just when someone wants to race, but going from a d15b7 102hp motor with short ram intake ha, to a Rebuilt turbo z6 it might not be that simple lol
 
Yeah forced induction is addicting take it from me. You just need to use some common sense and don't push it too much.
 
Um, no. Your stock suspension was not designed to handle that much power. If you can't afford to upgrade your suspension you can't afford 300whp. Take of your suspension brakes, and tires before adding the power. Performance is a complete package.

so your saying I need to get a COMPLETE suspension before I put down that much power?...
 
You don't NEED it, as I said earlier. However; I agree with Blanco in that suspension/tires/brakes before power is the way to go. It will make for a safer car, a better performing car, and a more enjoyable car.
 
gotcha...so whats your take on used suspension then? if it's in decent shape is ok? or should I wait and go brand new?
 
Find out how many miles are on it. Usually the springs will last the life of a car. Its they dampers that you need to watch out for. Take each damper and compress it by hand should offer increasing resistance the faster you try to push it. Check for signs of leaky seals too. Finally, make sure that it returns after being compressed.
 
If by "COMPLETE" you mean, at the very least, quality springs and shocks. Then yes.

No, you don't need them, unless you want your car to actually be able to handle the power in more than a sloppy straight line. It's more about safety than enjoyability. It is not safe to drive 300whp Civic with a stock suspension. Not safe at all.

there is the answer I was looking for, i figured it wouldn't be safe with that much hp but I was just wondering like i said in my original post what would be the best to start off with first so by springs and shocks you mean like a complete coilover suspension kit??
 
Find out how many miles are on it. Usually the springs will last the life of a car. Its they dampers that you need to watch out for. Take each damper and compress it by hand should offer increasing resistance the faster you try to push it. Check for signs of leaky seals too. Finally, make sure that it returns after being compressed.

well I guess if i wanted to save a few bucks I could just get used springs and new dampers but the springs aren't that expensive so it would prob. just as well be worth it to just buy new everything...
 
Well since the engine is being rebuilt for boost with the lower compression pistons, i was told without the turbo that might not be to nice of a ride, so maybe while were doing all the motor work go ahead and get everything put in, and I just won't be able to use the power full untill I get the suspension...but I might not even go 300whp...I definitely want to get as much as i can, but it is going to be my DD, and I know Blanco preaches about not worrying about the PSI number but If it takes 25lbs of boost to put my car at 300whp that prob. wouldn;t be best on a DD...correct me if I am wrong though...
 
lol yeah probably not a lot of off-boost power then.

how much are you looking to spend?
 
well if 300whp is gonna sacrafice that much what would I be safe with going and still have reliability... how does 250whp sound??...I mean I originally only wanted around 200 but we figured since we were re-building it like we are why not go more i mean we'd have the engine that will hold up and the turbo that can push it...but ( repeating myself) what would yall recommend be a good power level and still have reliability...
 
well I was planning on taking it to a shop to get it rebuilt and they guy I was planning on getting it tuned by is really reputable and I have heard nothing but good things from him...So I will prob. go for 250 because i believe 200 is safe for stock internal, and we are completely rebuilding it to hold up for a turbo..so 250 sounds like it would be the best choice
 
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