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Dark91zc · 01-06-2005, 01:49 AM

i have a 92 prelude and i want to swap a f22b into it. what do i need to do. or will this be a hard swap??

TeamUrbanChaos · 01-06-2005, 04:21 AM

WHY DO U WANNA DO THAT?

Howie Feltersnath · 09-13-2005, 04:44 PM

Well I searched on this subject and this was all I found. I need to have this done because the H23A1 in the car is junk and the owner bought a F22B on ebay. She bought it because the ad said “ F22B is a direct replacement engine of the H23A1.“ So here is the deal, this is not about power it is about getting the car running as cheap as possible. So is it worth it? She already has the 2.2 and a used 2.3 is way more money than what she has. Any help on this would be great.

This what the place who sold her the engine said:

F22B DOHC SWAP INTO H23A DOHC

1-all external gaskets appear to be the same between the F22B DOHC and
The H23A DOHC engine; e.g. Intake and Exhaust gaskets.

2-The timing belt to be used is GATES T132, 126 tooth belt

3-If the customer wishes to replace the WATER (H20) PUMP, they can use
A POA H2O pump (SOHC Accord F22A Type) however this US sourced H2O
Pump is a 20 tooth gear, whereas the F22B JDM H2O Pump is a 19 tooth.
This is of no concern, since the T132 belt still has enough length to
Accommodate the larger 20 tooth gear, and still be held correctly by
The BELT TENSIONER. Advise of tight fit.

4-To our experience thus far, the H2O-cooled oil filter base must be
Eliminated. There is NO strait forward way to re-use the oil cooler
from the H23A. The main coolant pipe behind the H23A H2O pump has the
Larger diameter pipe than the F22B H2O pump pipe. The rear of the H2O
Pump housing is an integral part of the short block and cannot be
Changed over. Therefore, the installer must retain our F22B main
Coolant pipe, which does not have the provision for the H2O-cooled oil
Filter base.

5-By now, you have probably been advised that the positions of the oil
Pressure sending unit and the knock sensor are different. (Comparing
The H23A and the F22B DOHC). The USDM H23A has the knock sensor
Mounted ABOVE the oil filter, while the oil pressure sending unit is
Mounted BELOW the oil filter. On the F22B DOHC, the oil pressure
Sending unit is mounted ABOVE the oil filter, and the F22B DOHC does
not use the knock sensor at all.

5a-For "Mickey Mouse" customer/installers, they can simply switch the
Locations of the sensors. The customer simply has to RE-USE the
JDM-F22B oil pressure sending unit-tell them to NOT touch that unit
(ABOVE JDM oil filter). Then the customer can grab the USDM oil
Pressure sending unit (including the additional fitting); tell them to
Remove the ACTUAL USDM oil pressure sending unit from the "removable
Fitting” Then, the customer can get a tap (10 X 1.25mm?) and drill
Out the "removable fitting" to accept the USDM knock sensor. Now, the
USDM knock sensor can fit into the JDM F22B block at the lower
Position BELOW the oil filter. (Warning! This lower position is a
Pressurized oil galley! Customer must properly seal unit with Teflon
Tape and use proper torque to mount this unit!)

5b-For "Picky picky" customer/installers, the customer must RE-USE the
JDM F22B oil pressure sending unit as is - the customer should not
touch the unit (ABOVE JDM oil filter) Now, the customer must locate
the "blank hole" (i.e. not threaded, but hole is already there) in the
short block; this is located just above the intermediate axle shaft
(A.k.a. half-shaft) where it mounts to the transmission. The customer
Needs to use a 12 x 1.23 mm (helicoil or guiltart -I can't make out
these 2 words on the fax)the knock sensor can now be mounted in this
hole (near the bell housing). CAUTION! to use this technique the knock
sensor should be installed LAST. As the knock sensor is somewhat
Delicate and this location is near the the axel shaft; to minimize the
Chance of damage to the sensor, it is best to install this after the
Engine and axles are already installed.

tab · 09-13-2005, 08:09 PM

Yeah, that sounds about right. This swap shouldn't be bad. I'd do it.

Don't worry about all that coolant and filter mumbo jumbo.

The oil pressure sensor can be left alone. I'd find a good spot and mount the knock sensor, otherwise the P14 ECU will throw a code and retard your timing. It kills performance and mileage to have that code.

Neither of those issues is a big deal.

I'm willing to bet that you would need the H23 harness for that F22B engine. JDM engines were RHD, and therefore, the harness came in on the other side of the engine. It's much easier to use your stock harness, so don't lose that.

That's a pretty good engine, and if you are getting a good deal, then do it. Let us know about any problems you encounter.

Howie Feltersnath · 09-14-2005, 12:58 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by tab@Sep 13 2005, 07:09 PM
Yeah, that sounds about right. This swap shouldn't be bad. I'd do it.

Don't worry about all that coolant and filter mumbo jumbo.

The oil pressure sensor can be left alone. I'd find a good spot and mount the knock sensor, otherwise the P14 ECU will throw a code and retard your timing. It kills performance and mileage to have that code.

Neither of those issues is a big deal.

I'm willing to bet that you would need the H23 harness for that F22B engine. JDM engines were RHD, and therefore, the harness came in on the other side of the engine. It's much easier to use your stock harness, so don't lose that.

That's a pretty good engine, and if you are getting a good deal, then do it. Let us know about any problems you encounter.

Quoted post

Thanks, I will let you know how it goes. You are right about the right hand drive stuff, that was the first thing I noticed, atleast as far as the fuel rail was concerned. I also plan on hooking up the knock sensor some how.

reikoshea · 09-14-2005, 01:29 AM

yeah, the fuel rail on the H23/H22/F22 is interchangable, so just use the one from the stock engine, but make sure to use the right injectors.

For the knock senor, id just pull it out of the H23, hook it up, and put it somewhere safe....behind the radio...

tab · 09-14-2005, 01:49 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by reikoshea@Sep 14 2005, 12:29 AM
yeah, the fuel rail on the H23/H22/F22 is interchangable, so just use the one from the stock engine, but make sure to use the right injectors.

For the knock senor, id just pull it out of the H23, hook it up, and put it somewhere safe....behind the radio...

Quoted post

I'd try using it the way it was intended first. I tried grounding mine and leaving it hanging in the past. It didn't work. The ECU counts on certain frequencies of sound shaking the sensor.

reikoshea · 09-18-2005, 10:39 AM

Well......i dunno....im trying to think about what i can do...

I thought about just taking it and re-running the wires (AGAIN!!!) into the cabin and just like putting it in the seat or something like that...in the end the wires would be shorter....and ya know what?

Since i already wired it once, the wire is all alone and not on the harness, so i can just pull it through the firewall

tab · 09-18-2005, 02:11 PM

I tried wiring mine, and hanging it with cable ties securely from my firewall. It's not enough. Just run it correctly, and use shielded audio cable, or chip the ECU so that it doesn't look for it.

01-06-2005, 01:49 AM	#1
Dark91zc Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Corona,CA Posts: 283 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 13	i have a 92 prelude and i want to swap a f22b into it. what do i need to do. or will this be a hard swap?? __________________ <a href=\'http://www.cardomain.com/ride/718969/1\' target=\'_blank\'>My Car</a> <a href=\'http://www.myspace.com/dark91zc\' target=\'_blank\'>Dark91zc Myspace</a> <a href=\'http://www.myspace.com/invisibledreams\' target=\'_blank\'>The Never Ending Dream Myspace</a> <a href=\'http://my.prostreetonline.com/member/dark91zc/\' target=\'_blank\'>more car pics</a>

01-06-2005, 04:21 AM	#2
TeamUrbanChaos Certified H22 Super-tech Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Home Of ThE LoSt Towers Posts: 472 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 2004 suabru WRX STi GT30r turbo Rep Power: 16	WHY DO U WANNA DO THAT? __________________ " ITS A GIRL, BUY SOME PINK SHIT!!!" *FORMER 1992 accord EX coupe JDM H22a swap (recently completed) MSD SCI ignition control DC sports 3' cat back exhaust CROME programmed chipped p28 2004 subaru wrx STI* Gt30r twin scroll turbo (23psi) turboXS 4" turbo-back exhaust turboXS external wastegate kit K&N typhoon intake system *cobb accessport V2 flash prog.

09-13-2005, 08:09 PM	#4
tab Super Moderator Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Aberdeen, Washington State Posts: 3,736 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 03 Avalanche Rep Power: 51	Yeah, that sounds about right. This swap shouldn't be bad. I'd do it. Don't worry about all that coolant and filter mumbo jumbo. The oil pressure sensor can be left alone. I'd find a good spot and mount the knock sensor, otherwise the P14 ECU will throw a code and retard your timing. It kills performance and mileage to have that code. Neither of those issues is a big deal. I'm willing to bet that you would need the H23 harness for that F22B engine. JDM engines were RHD, and therefore, the harness came in on the other side of the engine. It's much easier to use your stock harness, so don't lose that. That's a pretty good engine, and if you are getting a good deal, then do it. Let us know about any problems you encounter. __________________ -------------------- -------------------- 2003 Chevy Avalanche Leather, Moonroof, Z71, tow package, bose+six disc, nice. 1992 Accord EX (sold to good friends) JDM H22A H22A Auto Tranny w/LSD I/H/E -- All stainless w/2.5 inch Catback 1968 Oldsmobile Toronado Project car, 455 ci front wheel drive, nasty.

09-18-2005, 02:11 PM	#9
tab Super Moderator Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Aberdeen, Washington State Posts: 3,736 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 03 Avalanche Rep Power: 51	I tried wiring mine, and hanging it with cable ties securely from my firewall. It's not enough. Just run it correctly, and use shielded audio cable, or chip the ECU so that it doesn't look for it. __________________ -------------------- -------------------- 2003 Chevy Avalanche Leather, Moonroof, Z71, tow package, bose+six disc, nice. 1992 Accord EX (sold to good friends) JDM H22A H22A Auto Tranny w/LSD I/H/E -- All stainless w/2.5 inch Catback 1968 Oldsmobile Toronado Project car, 455 ci front wheel drive, nasty.


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09-13-2005, 04:44 PM	#3
Howie Feltersnath Junior Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Posts: 2 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 0	Well I searched on this subject and this was all I found. I need to have this done because the H23A1 in the car is junk and the owner bought a F22B on ebay. She bought it because the ad said “ F22B is a direct replacement engine of the H23A1.“ So here is the deal, this is not about power it is about getting the car running as cheap as possible. So is it worth it? She already has the 2.2 and a used 2.3 is way more money than what she has. Any help on this would be great. This what the place who sold her the engine said: F22B DOHC SWAP INTO H23A DOHC 1-all external gaskets appear to be the same between the F22B DOHC and The H23A DOHC engine; e.g. Intake and Exhaust gaskets. 2-The timing belt to be used is GATES T132, 126 tooth belt 3-If the customer wishes to replace the WATER (H20) PUMP, they can use A POA H2O pump (SOHC Accord F22A Type) however this US sourced H2O Pump is a 20 tooth gear, whereas the F22B JDM H2O Pump is a 19 tooth. This is of no concern, since the T132 belt still has enough length to Accommodate the larger 20 tooth gear, and still be held correctly by The BELT TENSIONER. Advise of tight fit. 4-To our experience thus far, the H2O-cooled oil filter base must be Eliminated. There is NO strait forward way to re-use the oil cooler from the H23A. The main coolant pipe behind the H23A H2O pump has the Larger diameter pipe than the F22B H2O pump pipe. The rear of the H2O Pump housing is an integral part of the short block and cannot be Changed over. Therefore, the installer must retain our F22B main Coolant pipe, which does not have the provision for the H2O-cooled oil Filter base. 5-By now, you have probably been advised that the positions of the oil Pressure sending unit and the knock sensor are different. (Comparing The H23A and the F22B DOHC). The USDM H23A has the knock sensor Mounted ABOVE the oil filter, while the oil pressure sending unit is Mounted BELOW the oil filter. On the F22B DOHC, the oil pressure Sending unit is mounted ABOVE the oil filter, and the F22B DOHC does not use the knock sensor at all. 5a-For "Mickey Mouse" customer/installers, they can simply switch the Locations of the sensors. The customer simply has to RE-USE the JDM-F22B oil pressure sending unit-tell them to NOT touch that unit (ABOVE JDM oil filter). Then the customer can grab the USDM oil Pressure sending unit (including the additional fitting); tell them to Remove the ACTUAL USDM oil pressure sending unit from the "removable Fitting” Then, the customer can get a tap (10 X 1.25mm?) and drill Out the "removable fitting" to accept the USDM knock sensor. Now, the USDM knock sensor can fit into the JDM F22B block at the lower Position BELOW the oil filter. (Warning! This lower position is a Pressurized oil galley! Customer must properly seal unit with Teflon Tape and use proper torque to mount this unit!) 5b-For "Picky picky" customer/installers, the customer must RE-USE the JDM F22B oil pressure sending unit as is - the customer should not touch the unit (ABOVE JDM oil filter) Now, the customer must locate the "blank hole" (i.e. not threaded, but hole is already there) in the short block; this is located just above the intermediate axle shaft (A.k.a. half-shaft) where it mounts to the transmission. The customer Needs to use a 12 x 1.23 mm (helicoil or guiltart -I can't make out these 2 words on the fax)the knock sensor can now be mounted in this hole (near the bell housing). CAUTION! to use this technique the knock sensor should be installed LAST. As the knock sensor is somewhat Delicate and this location is near the the axel shaft; to minimize the Chance of damage to the sensor, it is best to install this after the Engine and axles are already installed.

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92 prelude swap questions