l2ice_l2ocket

what up guys...I have a 2 door 97 accord & im researching the cost and other related matters to swapping out my current F series for an h22a. Here's a list of questions I have regarding this topic & all answers are greatly appreciated:

1) How much will the total spending cost be when the swap is complete(ball park figure) with no additional mods(just required mods)?

2) Will stripping the interior of my car down to just 2 racing seats make that much of a difference weight-wise?

3) Whats the difference between JDM h22a and non-JDM h22a's?

4) How much HP is an h22a capable of if it was fully modified?

5) How much would a JDM h22a with less then 30,000 miles cost?


Any extra tips or parts-suggestions would be great....Running the 1/4 under a 12.5 would be awesome, I can't spend any more then 6 grand to get it started(enough to run low 12s?)

Also, is an h22a the best way to go for my 97 accord for 6 grand?....is ther any other engines that are capable of faster et's and higher speeds for less money that will fit under my hood?...thanks guys...

l2ice_l2ocket

Also, my car is currently an auto, I will be changing it to manual when the swap takes place, does this cost more then a G?

tab

Well

• 1. Roughly 3000-3500, depends on who does the work, and the deal you get on the hardware.
• 2. Couple hundred pounds maybe. What's your goal? Drag, autocross, weekend warrior?
• 3. About 10 HP. JDM has a little higher compression, different ECU maps.
• 4. More than you can afford. A pinto engine will put out 1000HP if built that way. It doesn't really matter because it wouldn't work well on the street.
• 5. Engine, about a grand plus shipping. Or you could get most everything for 2-3K. Since you want the manual swap, you might as well buy a full swap to save on bullshit.

6K? You should be able to run low 12's with that.
Suggestions: Cams, cam gears, Hondata, Turbo, upgraded valvetrain. Lots of dyno time.

H22A is the most feasible option for your car, but it is not the only option.
The best option for your car is to read, until your eyes hurt. This forum and the turbo forum. You need to understand what you need to get what you want.

Good luck

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2003 Chevy Avalanche
Leather, Moonroof, Z71, tow package, bose+six disc, nice.

1992 Accord EX (sold to good friends)
JDM H22A
H22A Auto Tranny w/LSD
I/H/E -- All stainless w/2.5 inch Catback

1968 Oldsmobile Toronado
Project car, 455 ci front wheel drive, nasty.

l2ice_l2ocket

Thanks Tab, this seems like the best forum as a source for information. I've been reading/researching alot but thanks for breaking down all my questions. I'll probably endin up drag racing it depending on what kind of results I see...after I blow more money on it of course. Although its gonna be the daily ride for a while. I live in northern cali theres a few places I've checked out that carry Japanese engines...Hondas Only, & Red Zone. If you know any spots that are relatively cheap I'd appreciate that info also..thanks again

l2ice_l2ocket

Also, any suggestions on what year of H series I should buy?.... I imagine it would be difficult to find a 1996 Japanese h22a with less then 30-40k miles.

tab

The 96 JDM H22A is supposed to be OBD1. Japan switched over a year later than the US. Sooooo, the easiest would be a 97 or later. I think that's what you meant.

Switching OBD's is not worth it IMHO.

There is a conversion harness for switching, but you're wiring harness(from the original engine) is OBD2. This means that you would need to swap a little hardware from an OBD2 H22A to use your stock harness. The conversion harness plugs into the new ECU. It wouldn't help you unless you wanted to use an OBD1 ECU.

There are a few retailers advertising on this site for engine swaps.

Good luck.

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2003 Chevy Avalanche
Leather, Moonroof, Z71, tow package, bose+six disc, nice.

1992 Accord EX (sold to good friends)
JDM H22A
H22A Auto Tranny w/LSD
I/H/E -- All stainless w/2.5 inch Catback

1968 Oldsmobile Toronado
Project car, 455 ci front wheel drive, nasty.

l2ice_l2ocket

Yea you answered my questions perfect, thanks. I thought of another question I should ask.....is there some parts (i.e. pistons) I should have put on the engine before its under the hood...any that would save money and time by putting them on before its bolted in? peace

driver1

well the pistons that u get in a jdm h22a should be just fine unless you would like to run something aftermarket...and doing so u might as well change your CR now is when u will need to decide if u want to stay NA or go FI. If u stay NA some type s pistons would suit u well, and stay in your budget. As far as FI goes and low compression pistons well....unless u want to spend more than that 6k u might as well forget aboout it

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94 Honda Accord, jdm h22 swapped daily driver
04 cbr600rr fun toy
95 toyota tacoma, lifted winter truck

tab

And change your timing belts. Since you are not actually driving with that engine yet, having a set of cams would not kill your time schedule. It would be somewhat easier to change cams without the engine in, but it doesn't matter.

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2003 Chevy Avalanche
Leather, Moonroof, Z71, tow package, bose+six disc, nice.

1992 Accord EX (sold to good friends)
JDM H22A
H22A Auto Tranny w/LSD
I/H/E -- All stainless w/2.5 inch Catback

1968 Oldsmobile Toronado
Project car, 455 ci front wheel drive, nasty.

l2ice_l2ocket

Yea I think keeping it n/a would be a better option at the time sense I'll be driving it daily for a good year or two. As far as the JDM/USDM goes, I'd be better off putting US in because of my location/emissions laws. Although a turbo would be off the heeeeezy..oh well. thanks folks

HONDAPITSTOP

You can look up some local swap shops at this link below
swap shop locator

I'm not sure where you live but my 1994 JDM H22A in my 1995 Accord passed emissions here in Portland Oregon without any problems. Emissions were actually much lower than the max allowed emissions here.

Also, make sure that you get an LSD tranny with your H22A (Limited Slip differential) It's much cheaper to get it with the engine rather than later. You should only have to pay about $400 to 500 beans more for the LSD tranny.

Other people have covered most of what you asked and I agree that it would be a good idea to change the timing belt and water pump before installing the engine. The swap shop that does your install prolly won't charge you much more to do those with the engine out it will be a lot easier.

Make sure the swap shop does quality work like electrical cable conversions and good lenghtening of the cables where needed and if you want to keep your A/C and power steering make sure you specify that to your mechanic.

If you have some left over cash you could have a lighter flywheel and better clutch put in before the install the engine. Timing cams would be good too. You just have to set up how much you have to spend max and then talk to your swap shop and decide just how much you can do now and how much you'll have to wait and do later. Ask your shop how much it will cost to put in before the engine install and how much they would charge later after the engine is installed and that might help you make up your mind on what all to add and what you can wait on.

Well, that's about all my tired brain can think of for tonight. DOHC_VTEC Accord (Chris) was the former owner of my car and did the swap and most of the mods before I bought it off him and restored it after it was in an accident. If you care to take a look at it then here's my car page link below.
My car page
Bruce

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