Originally Posted by WiKKeDV16

Step 1: Collection Process.. For this Headswap you need a decent amount of parts so without further adeu heres the parts list


F22A/H23A HEADSWAP

-H23A Head Complete(cams/cam gears/etc)
-H23A intake manifold complete(fuel injectors/throttle body/sensors)
-H23A Timing gear(crankshaft)-this piece may be a little hard to find but shouldnt have too hard of a time finding someone parting out a h23a
-H23A Headgasket kit
-F23A Headgasket
-H23A Timing Belt
-H23A Balancer Shaft Belt
-New Head stubs (OEM,Aftermarket whichever floats your boat)

Recommendation: Have the head rebuild since the headgasket kit already includes valve stem seals that u an have replaced.. and since the head is off why not rebuild it (150-200 for rebuild)


Thats the Main Chunk of Parts Needed to Complete this Hybrid


P-R-O-C-E-S-S
REMOVE THE TERMINALS FROM YOUR BATTERY and set them aside
PART I
1.park your car where u will be working it for the entirety of the time it takes you to do this
2. raise the hood and allow the engine to cool off (go watch some tv for an hour or so)
3.get yourself some sort of bucket(fits under the front end) and remove the coolant butterfly. Allow the Coolant to drain
4.while the coolant is draining u can go ahead and begin to remove parts
-Stock intake airbox/Short ram
-Distributor,spark plug wires
probably by the time your somewhere in those two steps the coolant has stopped trickling into the bucket..

5.pop your fuel door and open the gas cap(this allows the built up pressure to be released)
6.loosen the service nut on the fuel rail (have a rag handy to catch an fuel that may squirt out). you are doing this to release the rest of the pressure that may be still in the line
7.remove the fuel pressure regulator/fuel line(dont forget those washers) and set the fuel rail w/injectors aside somewhere
8.with pliers you can begin to remove coolant lines that connect the intake manifold to the thermostat housing
9.unbolt the thermostat housing (3x10mm) it is not neccessary to remove it off of the water pipe but just simply unbolt it so its not attached to the intake manifold (coolant will flow once this is removed, i suggest u place the bucket in the proximity that the coolant will drop down)

10. remove the throttle cable
11. begin to unbolt the intake manifold the top nuts can be accessible with a 10mm wrench. this step takes patience, u will end up finding ur own way on removing them
11b.the bottom center nuts of the intake manifold are quite hard to get to for this i suggest u use a long extension or two short extensions put together i myself use a 6" extension coupled with a 3" extension to reach the middle bottom bolt which is impossible to reach through the top
11c.once all of the I/M bolts are removed raise the car (move the bucket... more coolant will flow) get under the car and remove the bottom bolt to the bracket that attaches the intake manifold to the block

12.unplug all of the sensors connected and vac lines (tps,egr,iat,iacv,)
13.unbolt the pwr steering line holder and harness holder these are located on the drivers side (look next to the cam gear area.. you'll see a bolt strapped to the intake manifold holding the pwr steering line and harness to it remove both of these bolts)
14.slowly begin to shimmy the intake manifold off of the head
15. once u manage to get the flange portion(part that was attached to the head) over the valvecove.. reach under with pliers and remove the ziptie like holder that keeps the harness attached to the intake manifold.. once this is removed u can pull the intake manifold up and away

PART II
1.Remove the heatshield from the stock exhaust manifold(u will have to unplug the o2 sensor and slide the harness through the heatshield
2.slide under the car and remove the 3 bolts that connected the top portion of the exhaust manifold to the down pipe(bottom portion)
----this step is only needed if u plan on replacing the stock exhaust manifold with an aftermarket header----
3.near the flexpipe there are 2 bolts that connect the flexpipe area to the chasis remove these 2 bolts
4.get back to the engine bay and remove the bolts to the exhaust manifold
4b.shimmy out the exhaust manifold and set it aside

5.unbolt/remove the pwr steering pump from its bracket and set it aside, along with belt
6.loosen tension on alternator unbolt/remove and set aside (along with belt)
7.begin to unbolt the timing cover(s) the easiest one to get to is the top
7b.once the top timing cover is off simple cut the belt why i say this? well ur not gonna need the belt your not putting the same head back.. and i doubt u could sell it to anybody so why bother with having to loosen the tensioner right now?

8.get yourself a hydrolic jack and a piece of wood(sturdy and flat)
8b. place the jack with wood under oil pan and slowly begin to raise the jack until u can see that the weight has been taken off the motor mounts
9.remove the drivers side motor mount bolt(19mm i think)
10. go back under and lower the jack slowly NOT all the way just enough until u see the crank bolt clearly enough where u can get tools on it
11.Remove Valvecover
11b.unbolt head in according sequence(see manual)
11c.set aside somewhere away from dirt/grim/grass etc if u plan on reselling
12. go back under and remove the bottom timing cover and set aside
13. rotate crank manually with ratchet until piston #1 is at TDC(piston closet to timing side) TDC=Piston is at highest point in compression stroke
13b. this is up to you.. u can deside to attempt to remove the crank bolt yourself.. you can buy the special tool for this.. there are a million ways/tricks/tips to do this.. i will not discuss them.. just get it done.

14.once the bolt is off remove the crank pulley and pay attention for the key it may or may not fall down when u pull the crank pulley out
14b.remove crank timing gear
14c.replace crank timing gear with p14 timing gear(17 teeth)
15. Flip h23a head on a table or some work-able area place the f23a headgasket on it and fill in the blind hole with hondabond and with your finger rub some of the hondabond in that part of the gasket
16. clean up block from any old gasket material it may have.. or dirt grime etc
17.if aftermarket headstuds have been purchased insert them now
18.spray copper gasket on block and on the bottom of the h23a head(Gasket area)
19.place h23a head WITH intake manifold( heavy i know) onto block with care to not move to much the f23a gasket

PART III
1.Reinstall the Camshafts with cam gears on (UP letters facing ^) into their corresponding locations (cams are marked INT= INTAKE EXT=EXHAUST
2.lube up the cam bodies with assembly lube (lithium grease)
3.place cam caps back onto their corresponding locations (in corresponding order)
4.go back under and remove the plug covering the access way for the rear balance shaft
5.insert a screw driver into the access hole and rotate balancer shaft until locked
6.while down there loosen the tensioner bolt to release the tension it may have preciously had
7.FOLLOW MANUAL ON REINSTALLATION OF A TIMING BELT
8.Reinstall bolt for access hole/timing

9.replace timing belt covers
10.raise up jack holding motors weight to align bolt hole for motor mount bolt
10b tighten down the bolt to spec and lower the jack SLOWLY
11.Install Valvecover gakset/valvecover/tighten down
12.install distributor and make sure u have firing order correct
12b.1-4-3-2 (im tired as shit but i believe its right)
12c. install fresh NEW spark plugs

13.plug in distributor/egr/tps/iat/iacv/all vacumn lines
14.install top portion of new header OR stock exhaust manifold
14b.disconnect stock downpipe from cat and replace with new aftermarket downpipe OR simply bolt up the stock exhaust manifold to the stock downpipe
15. Drain oil/Replace Oil Filter
15b.Replace oil with your brew (Mobile 1 is my canidate,switching to redline soon due to some convincing )
16.Bolt up Thermostat Housing/Coolant lines/make sure everything is button down tight
16b.look over everything
16c.look over everything
16d.LOOK OVER EVERYTHING
16e.L-O-O-K O-V-E-R E-V-E-R-T-H-I-N-G!!

17.Reinstall your alternator/ a/c belt
17b. reinstall alternator/reinstall pwr steering (if ur keeping it,pwr str is for pussys)
17c.recheck over everything one last time
18.remove ECU fuse
18b. crank the motor over a few times without the ecu fuse (this will allow oil pressure to be built up)
19.install ecu fuse
20.hop inside your car, turn the ignition key to on (make sure u hear the fuel pump priming)
21. turn over key and hold (may take a lil longer then normal for it to turn on for the first time) once its on quickly get out and check your work
22.look over fuel rail for leaks/vacumn leaks(if ur idle is surging ) pay close attention to everything.. if it sounds fine let it be till it warms up
23.once warmed up check temperature if its normal proceed to check other problems you may be having

24.fine adjustments (adjust the idle screw), FIV(theres a DIY on here) , Bleed the Coolant,check for any vacumn leaks,set distributor timing with a timing gun, check for any leaks from coolant lines
24b. once this checks out hop by in your car and give it a few light revs (2,500rpm is fine) everything still there? shes still on?
24c. put your tires back on tidy up and pull it out of your driveway.. DO NOT GO ONTO A MAIN ROAD
25.drive it around your neighborhood/block/street/w.e slowly..
25b. raise in rpm to about 3,000rpm and shift getting a feel for it, listen very carefully for any wierd noises or leaks that may spring(coolant lines like to burst a leak randomly)... check your temperature if its fine proceed.. after a good 10-15minute drive take it back home
26.park it.. turn it off. and pop the hood again.. give it another inspection.. if all's well u can begin to really tidy up the engine bay and make things look nice..

Originally Posted by 4thGenLude

The idea of combining the 2 different engines is a great idea when you look deep down at the differences, you are actually taking the best of two worlds.

One of the biggest complaints about H blocks is the FRM sleeves and also good H blocks are getting harder to come by (ie. high cost), where as F blocks are a dime a dozen at any local junk yard and already have cast iron sleeves. Also if you are doing a turbo build, the F22A is already at a low 8.8:1 compression, good place to be for boost.

Then there is the strengths of the much higfher flowwing and tunable DOHC head, weather you chose H22 or H23 you are just going to see significant gains. Not to mention H heads are alot eaisier to find then good blocks.

So if you really look at it think of it as getting a sleeved block without the cost, and once you have done the work the first time, now you can cheaply and eaisly get a replacement lower end.

Just my opinion.

And yes I am in process of rebuilding a H23 head to stick on my F22 block.

Originally Posted by d112crzy

should be about the same as a stock h23. it depends on which ecu you use. if you use the p14 or p39, its gona run strong, but not its strongest. a chipped and tuned ecu would be best.

its gona have a lot more umph, but dont be surprised if it doesnt keep up with h23's. h23's still have higher compression a more displacement. the head does NOT affect the compression ratio. it will still remain at 8.8cr.

Originally Posted by d112crzy

I am tired of people saying how its not possible and how it is not worth the money and blah blah blah.

well, guess what, it is possible and it is worth the money, especially if you are going from the f22a1 or f22b2.

this DIY is from WikkedV16 from CB7Tuner.com - 4th Generation Accord Online Community, the thread is here:
CB7Tuner Forums - DIY request on H23 head swap

this is for the F22Ax block with an h23 head. Now, it is pretty much the same for F22B2's. I'm not sure about F22B1 since it has vtec, but im pretty sure it WILL swap on.

If you fuck anything up, thats you're own fault, dont come complaining to me or Wikked.