sniezek66

Yes i'm considering doing a h22a swap into my 90 accord. My main question is when purchasing the swap what all should i make sure is included with it. In other words what all do i need for this swap. Also i want to keep the accord automatic, do to the fact i can't drive a stick shift since my left ankle football injury. Will the auto tranny i have in the car now still bolt up to the h22a?? If someone could answer these questions for me it would be great, so i will at least have an idea of what i'm getting involved in.

p.s. Also for more power would you recommend building the motor up or going with a turbo kit??

tab

You'd want the H22A automatic tranny because it has LSD. It is not necessary to buy, nor is the gearing that much better. The F22A auto works fine. I would try to get the TCU for the tranny, as the F22A shift points suck.

You want the engine, tranny, ECU, and hopefully TCU. What you need is the engine, ECU, header w/ downpipe(header alone does you no good), and power steering hose from an H22A prelude(H23 one might work).

You use your stock engine harness, and add wires. You use your stock vacuum hose layout. Your motor mounts and axles work fine.

If you actually get to the point of wanting to do this swap, come back and ask more questions.

Click my sig for pics.

__________________
--------------------
--------------------

2003 Chevy Avalanche
Leather, Moonroof, Z71, tow package, bose+six disc, nice.

1992 Accord EX (sold to good friends)
JDM H22A
H22A Auto Tranny w/LSD
I/H/E -- All stainless w/2.5 inch Catback

1968 Oldsmobile Toronado
Project car, 455 ci front wheel drive, nasty.

sniezek66

ok well where would be the best place to get all this from. Also do you know of any places that sell h22a's that have already been built up internally. This would save me alot of hassle and headaches?? Let me know.

Kurtis

tab

ebay, hmotorsonline, Honda parts dept. (for PS hose)

I don't know of any that are already built up for sale. The Type S puts out a little more power from the factory but costs more.

check out www.importbuilders.com for nice products on a build up.

__________________
--------------------
--------------------

2003 Chevy Avalanche
Leather, Moonroof, Z71, tow package, bose+six disc, nice.

1992 Accord EX (sold to good friends)
JDM H22A
H22A Auto Tranny w/LSD
I/H/E -- All stainless w/2.5 inch Catback

1968 Oldsmobile Toronado
Project car, 455 ci front wheel drive, nasty.

sniezek66

Thanks tab i contacted importbuilders and were working on somethign right now.

sniezek66

Also one thing is there a big difference between the regular h22 or the h22 type s. I know it's about 20 hp difference, but is it really that noticable. Also in terms of building it up are most of the parts the same or are they going to be a bitch to get. One other thing when swapping the engine is it anymre difficult.

tab

Pretty much the same parts for a build up. The main differences are the cams, slightly higher compression, and a hand polished intake with no IAB.

For a buildup, you'd already be buying pistons and cams(I'm guessing). I wouldn't buy a Type S for buildup purposes.

__________________
--------------------
--------------------

2003 Chevy Avalanche
Leather, Moonroof, Z71, tow package, bose+six disc, nice.

1992 Accord EX (sold to good friends)
JDM H22A
H22A Auto Tranny w/LSD
I/H/E -- All stainless w/2.5 inch Catback

1968 Oldsmobile Toronado
Project car, 455 ci front wheel drive, nasty.

sniezek66

What about the h22 from the euro accord type r's is that sorta the same thing as the type s motor. Also is hmotorsonline the best place to buy the swap or is there another place to contact? there prices didn't seem to bad, but since you did this before i'm sure you'll know

thanks

sniezek66

Also if i decide to go with the type s engine will the fact that it's obd2 be a problem when swapping this engine or will the wiring process still be the same as the h22a

tab

The OBD 2 would be harder to wire, much harder. I've never done it, but I've seen several confused people on this board.

I bought my engine off Ebay. Another guy I know bought an engine from Hmotorsonline. I guess you get a way better deal if you call and talk to them, rather than using the internet checkout. He paid $1100 shipped. I paid $1261 shipped. Engine only. The ECU would run about another $100-200 more.

The Type S is a great option, but overpriced for the amount of gain in my opinion.

A standard H22 with some IB spec internals would easily give you the same or more power for less money.

Good luck.

__________________
--------------------
--------------------

2003 Chevy Avalanche
Leather, Moonroof, Z71, tow package, bose+six disc, nice.

1992 Accord EX (sold to good friends)
JDM H22A
H22A Auto Tranny w/LSD
I/H/E -- All stainless w/2.5 inch Catback

1968 Oldsmobile Toronado
Project car, 455 ci front wheel drive, nasty.

sniezek66

thanks TAB i'm talkign to a guy who built me a harness for my type r swap into my 91 honda civic hatch. Everythign went smooth there since they did all the dirty work. If he can build me a harness then i mgith do it. I f he says it'sa bitch then i'm not going to. Like i said in the other post i'm am just very worried about going through another engine build since my last one was a nightmare. Thanks for everything and let me know of what i should do about a build up and what to use. Also how hard is it to add a turbo on to this motor and is it worth doing or to pricey for that. Also if i did go with a turbo would you recommend still building it up or just leaving it stock.

thanks
kurtis

tab

Adding a turbo would be easy enough, I've thought about it. Just make sure you allow for engine management, and think strongly about building the bottom end up a little. This is what I was thinking about when you asked about building. An IB bottom end will take a lot more punishment in severe conditions(nitrous,turbo,built NA). The stock H22A is fairly tough, but supposedly, the ring lands are weak and prone to breakage under boost. The stock crank, oil pump, water pump and such are fine. I'd probably think about sleeves, rods, and pistons. You can build the head at the same time or later.

If you are seriously thinking about boost, read up about it, and think about buying a chipped P28 or P72 instead of the stock P13. The P13 isn't supported for engine management(Hondata, Uberdata, and datalogging.)

I have heard that you can safely run 6 or 7 psi of boost with the H22, properly tuned. Read B's article on Static vs. Effective compression. It's a good read.

__________________
--------------------
--------------------

2003 Chevy Avalanche
Leather, Moonroof, Z71, tow package, bose+six disc, nice.

1992 Accord EX (sold to good friends)
JDM H22A
H22A Auto Tranny w/LSD
I/H/E -- All stainless w/2.5 inch Catback

1968 Oldsmobile Toronado
Project car, 455 ci front wheel drive, nasty.