hillmw

I swapped an engine H23 to H22 on a 93 Honda Prelude with Auto Trans.

H22 jdm engine
H22 ecu
H23 harness
H23 distributor & coil
1 H22 water outlet, 1 H23 water outlet
H22 exhaust header with matching pipe I bought (flange mount problem)
H23 a/c
H23 alt
H23 ps
H23 belts

I really am looking for a H22 harness but am using my H23 harness right now. That is why I have the H23 distributor & coil in because the vtec is not wired and I couldn't see how the plugs could get spark because the H22 does not have a coil.

The car starts but the rpm builds up in a hurry and I have to turn it off.

Until I get the H22 harness I thought I'd put the H23 ecu back in and see if the rpm problem quits and it will idle.

Any comments on what I did here?

reikoshea

you need to use the p13 ecu. the idle this is probably due to vacuum routing

adding vtec only requires running 3 wires (and a ground). after that youll, be good to go.

you really dont need the h22 harness...thats 600 bucks to do a job that takes 30 minutes and just a little patience.

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hillmw

I do have the P13. So you think my hose are all wrong!!! How should I figure out how they go?

reikoshea

helms is your friend

http://www.helminc.com

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hillmw

ok very cool. I had some hoses misconnected.

It idles now, enough for me to drive it, but it runs like a dog. I have the check engine light one.

Anyone know where the codes are?

Im thinking I need to fix the ck eng light then time it.

make sence?

reikoshea

yup, might wanna time it first though...youre probably getting a knock sensor code...which will make your car run like a dog.

to check the code, pull out the blue 2 wire plug that is behind the stereo center console thing. there's a 3 wire and a 2 wire, make sure you grab the right one.

after you have that pulled out, jump it with a paper clip and then turn the ignition to II (on but not started) and then your CEL will start blinking. Let us know how it blinks and we will tell you what the code means (or you can figure it out on your own...which ever).

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TeamUrbanChaos

dont even waste your time getting the h22 harness man. all you need to run your vtec is 3 wires. 2 from the VTEC soilnoid and one from the knock sensor. once you do that you have your h22 harness. theres really no difference in the h22/ h23 harness except for the VTEC wires, otherwise your going to spend countless hours maybe even days trying to take the old harness out and plug in the new one ESPEICALY since the motor is already installed in the car!!

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" ITS A GIRL, BUY SOME PINK SHIT!!!"

*FORMER 1992 accord EX coupe
*JDM H22a swap (recently completed)
*MSD SCI ignition control
*DC sports 3' cat back exhaust
*CROME programmed chipped p28

*2004 subaru wrx STI

hillmw

These are the codes I am getting:

2 long, then 1 short.
then
3 long, then 6 short

What does that tell you?

reikoshea

21 is vtec solenoid (normal if you havent wired it)...as for 36...thats not a code to my knowledge...but i think i remember that one might be something for 4ws.

edit, google says its for traction control (JDM). if you fix the other one, the 36 will stop turning the cel on.

you have to wire the vtec solenoid to fix code 21

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hillmw

There are 3 switchs that are not wired as follows:
There are 2 switchs up by the DIST (remember i have the h23 dist and coil) ,
a) green, and
b) another grey connector (must be the vtec?)
c) there is another plug that maybe the fast idle thermo valve.

The 4ws light does blink as well.

Is the reason it is running like a dog is it just isn't timed? Spec says 15 btdc but I'm just seeing 2 tick marks and the mark on the flywheel is a blur. Maybe when I get the idle set it will not be blury.

hillmw

Couple questions about the timing and the idling:

1) Is this the Timing mark on this JDM? It's just one mark and not like the manual I have.


2) Is this the plug where I can connect my tachometer to adjust the idle?

reikoshea

you need to make sure to jump the service connector (the thing that you used to check your codes) before you set your timing. The mark you showed is actually TDC. -15 has -13 and -17 marked above and below it.

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hillmw

Reik, yes I have the service connector jumped. It runs alot better like that. Am I correctly showing the connector to connect my tach?

r u saying the that the mark I see in the pic "----" is TDC and that there is another set of marks, i.e. this mark is not the one.

My manual shows this:

which is not what I am seeing. Maybe I need to rotate the flywheel again.

reikoshea

it looks like everything is right. If the service connector is not jumped (ie its not flashing codes 21 and 36) then your car will automatically try to set your timing at TDC (which is the mark you showed). If it is jumped, the timing will not be set by the computer and you can rotate the distributor to see those other 3 marks. They should be on a stock flywheel.

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hillmw

What about my tachometer connector? Am I correctly showing the connector in the pic?

reikoshea

i think so...truth be told, i dont know, id have to look at my car. when i go on my next break, i will try to check it out.

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TeamUrbanChaos

you tach connector is on the dizzy...i'd get it from there cuz at least you know for sure that the blue wire on the dizzy is the tach output. you really dont know where that other wire is coming from

__________________
" ITS A GIRL, BUY SOME PINK SHIT!!!"

*FORMER 1992 accord EX coupe
*JDM H22a swap (recently completed)
*MSD SCI ignition control
*DC sports 3' cat back exhaust
*CROME programmed chipped p28

*2004 subaru wrx STI

hillmw

i have the H23 distributor. i see the 2 connectors going into the distributor. i also see the blue wire coming out of the connector to the dist. How do you normally connect the tach alligator clip? Do you normally push in some other kind of connector in next to the blue wire?