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pawlstevenz · 01-20-2006, 05:46 AM

post removed

94accordex · 01-20-2006, 08:04 AM

Ok, first of all, if its your spare car/daily driver, than why would you be needing to take it over 100 miles per hour on any kind of a regular basis? A lot of older cars are going to be wobbly at those kinds of speeds...my suggestion would be DON'T DRIVE IT THAT FAST! Especially if the steering seems to have some problems as you mentioned!

And for your question of swapping the engine, I don't think anyone has done that specific swap yet and I would advise you not to try it. The motor itself is probably going to cost twice as much as you paid for the car, and it would have to be a custom install since no one makes a mount kit for that, and that means a costly install. Plus, the RSX motor, depending on which version, is making 200-220 horsepower. If you already have an H22 than you'd be spending probably 5 grand or more to gain 10-30 horsepower, depending on which RSX motor you use. Not exactly a very economical solution for a car that's supposedly just a daily driver.

You say that your experience with the Prelude is making you appreciate how well your RSX drives and handles, well keep in mind that just swapping to a different motor isnt going to make your Prelude handle like the car you swapped the motor from. I'd say just keep the H22 and do some maintenence on it, or replace it with another H22 if you must have a lower mileage motor. If you use your existing transmission you could probably pick up an H22 for a around $1000-$1500.

pawlstevenz · 01-20-2006, 08:29 AM

post removed

reikoshea · 01-20-2006, 08:37 AM

well if I WERE YOU. i would but new shocks and springs on the car...change out the bushings in the suspension (cause im willing to bet THATS never been done) and then check all the joints and axles to see what condition theyre in. next id do an engine overhaul, see what i got stuck with. The prelude does like to burn oil and the car is set to run rich in VTEC so the gas smell is normal too. With 290,000 miles on the clock, id just be replacing everything. Hell id probably get a new set of tires too just incase your tires are the reason for the wobbly car. you can feezably redo the suspension for about 500 bucks with shocks struts springs bushings and a 4 wheel alignment (asuming you do all the labor on everything but the alignment). Then you are looking at another 100-200 (depending on what you want) for tires. After that id get a fresh odometer from honda, cause GOOD LORD i dont think id want to look at 290 all day. My odometer is broken at 90,000 miles.

Slammed89Integra · 01-20-2006, 10:05 AM

You my friend are an [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/asshat.gif[/img] . You drive a car with bad suspension over 100, and dont' expect to get flamed? Are you fucking kidding me?

You're endangering everyone's life on the road around you when you do something stupid as that. And yes I have a prelude as well, it has a perfect alignment, and anything over 85, it pulls to one side or the other. Mostly because the car weighs a butt load and my suspension is completely stock, and the roads where I live have this grating so it gets pulled around quite a bit. Therefore, that is why I never break 85.

driverunknown · 01-20-2006, 01:09 PM

Any good alignment shop will look at your car and tell you what is wrong with the suspension and what needs to be replaced. Start there.

stickyfusion · 01-20-2006, 02:45 PM

methinks u need to learn ALOT more about cars [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/dry.gif[/img]

read as much as you possibly can on this site and ask smart questions... good luck

tab · 01-20-2006, 07:27 PM

Wow. Take it easy on the noob. This is a learning site, not a nazi beatdown.

That's a lot of miles, but I've seen many more on a stock Accord. As mentioned, suspension would come first. Brakes are a close runner up.

Next, I'd have the engine tested if it runs well. Leakdown and compression test to start, if you have no check engine light on. Assess if you have a bad core, or a sensor/wiring problem.

Come back with your findings and we'll be happy to give you *AHEM* CONSTRUCTIVE CRITICISM.

94accordex · 01-21-2006, 12:03 AM

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>Anyways, That was a nice um what do you call it, um something that mom or dad would have said when I was about 16 getting my first car, uh hum I'm 32 I should be able to do what I want now dad...[/b][/quote]

Uhhh...ok...thanks for being an asshole you retard. You said in your original post that this car is your daily driver/spare vehicle and that the suspension is in really bad shape and the car feels very unstable at high speeds. Given that information, the response I gave you was a perfectly good answer to your question! You can't ask one thing and expect us to know that you really are asking about something else! If you wanted information on how to build your Prelude into a serious performance car than you should have said so instead of beating around the bush about how you want to do some maintenance on your crapped-out daily driver!

And sorry for the fucking lecture, but I'd rather not have you smashing into me or anyone else on the freeway when you're pushing 100+ mph and your crappy suspension and brakes give out! And you're 32 years fucking years old? I'd expect some dumbass shit like that from a 17 year-old jerk-off kid, but seriously...at 32?!? You should fucking know better!

If you plan on hanging out here you should know that you're going to get flamed a lot for posting crap like "yeah I was doing 120 on the freeway yesterday and I raced this Eclipse and kicked his ass yo!" The general consensus around here is that street-racing is stupid and dangerous...if you think your car has some balls then take it to the track and get a time slip; don't go fucking with people's lives just to get your rocks off!

I think it's official at this point: [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/yourafucktard.gif[/img]

And from what you've written so far it seems like you don't know much about cars and you don't know much about common sense either! Most newer cars are going to be wobbly and hard to control at speeds exceeding 100, so what the hell did you expect from a 13-year old car that's been beat on for most of it's life?!? If you can't figure out why your crapped out 93 Prelude is wobbling and feels out of control when you hit 100, then you're just plain stupid...I wouldn't dare drive my 94 Accord that fast on a public road, not even after a brake job and a realignment!

If you want a car that handles well at 100+ mph than start saving for a fucking Ferrari or something...

WITH ALL THAT SAID AND OUT OF THE WAY...

As the other people told you, you can improve the car's handling by working on the suspension. New shocks would be a good idea, and some aftermarket lowering springs would both improve your car's appearence and help with cornering abilities. Replacing the bushings in your suspension system may help firm up the ride a bit; polyurethane bushings would be an even better choice. Polyurethane motor mounts are available as well and might also help you attain a smoother ride. Adding strut braces and sway bars can also help improve your car's responsiveness and cornering abilities; new tires should also be on your list if they are needed.

I'd also have the brakes checked out, and replace pads/rotors or have the rotors resurfaced if necessary. You can go aftermarket for rotors if you wish, although there is some debate as to whether slotted and drilled type aftermarket rotors are any better or safer than a regular rotor. I'd say for now just make sure the brakes are in good working order.

As far as the question of your motor I'm sticking to what I said before...at this point an H22 is still probably the best option for your car. If you are concerned about the condition of your current motor, do some general tune up to get started. Check your plugs, wires, air filter, make sure you are up to date on oil changes. If you still think something may be wrong with it, then take it somewhere and have it tested; leakdown and compression tests as Tab mentioned, and if your CEL is on, any decent shop should be able to run diagnostics and assess any problems you may have.

The H22 has potential both as a naturally-aspirated beast or as a boost motor, although the compression on the motor is fairly high so if you want to boost you need to keep the PSI fairly low or you need to open up the motor and do some internal work. Do some research on the site and you should be able to get a better idea of what direction you want to go with your car.

01-20-2006, 05:46 AM	#1
pawlstevenz made you look Join Date: Jan 2006 Posts: 2 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 0	post removed Last edited by pawlstevenz; 03-15-2010 at 09:02 AM. Reason: privacy issues

01-20-2006, 08:29 AM	#3
pawlstevenz made you look Join Date: Jan 2006 Posts: 2 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 0	post removed Last edited by pawlstevenz; 03-15-2010 at 09:03 AM. Reason: privacy issues

01-20-2006, 10:05 AM	#5
Slammed89Integra Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Washington Age: 23 Posts: 7,969 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 2007 Scion TC, 2005 Suzuki GSX-R 600 Rep Power: 170	You my friend are an [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/asshat.gif[/img] . You drive a car with bad suspension over 100, and dont' expect to get flamed? Are you fucking kidding me? You're endangering everyone's life on the road around you when you do something stupid as that. And yes I have a prelude as well, it has a perfect alignment, and anything over 85, it pulls to one side or the other. Mostly because the car weighs a butt load and my suspension is completely stock, and the roads where I live have this grating so it gets pulled around quite a bit. Therefore, that is why I never break 85. __________________ When this is all over I think we should get an apartment together.

01-20-2006, 07:27 PM	#8
tab Super Moderator Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Aberdeen, Washington State Posts: 3,736 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 03 Avalanche Rep Power: 52	Wow. Take it easy on the noob. This is a learning site, not a nazi beatdown. That's a lot of miles, but I've seen many more on a stock Accord. As mentioned, suspension would come first. Brakes are a close runner up. Next, I'd have the engine tested if it runs well. Leakdown and compression test to start, if you have no check engine light on. Assess if you have a bad core, or a sensor/wiring problem. Come back with your findings and we'll be happy to give you AHEM CONSTRUCTIVE CRITICISM. __________________ -------------------- -------------------- 2003 Chevy Avalanche Leather, Moonroof, Z71, tow package, bose+six disc, nice. 1992 Accord EX (sold to good friends) JDM H22A H22A Auto Tranny w/LSD I/H/E -- All stainless w/2.5 inch Catback 1968 Oldsmobile Toronado Project car, 455 ci front wheel drive, nasty.


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01-20-2006, 08:04 AM	#2
94accordex Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Posts: 100 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 18	Ok, first of all, if its your spare car/daily driver, than why would you be needing to take it over 100 miles per hour on any kind of a regular basis? A lot of older cars are going to be wobbly at those kinds of speeds...my suggestion would be DON'T DRIVE IT THAT FAST! Especially if the steering seems to have some problems as you mentioned! And for your question of swapping the engine, I don't think anyone has done that specific swap yet and I would advise you not to try it. The motor itself is probably going to cost twice as much as you paid for the car, and it would have to be a custom install since no one makes a mount kit for that, and that means a costly install. Plus, the RSX motor, depending on which version, is making 200-220 horsepower. If you already have an H22 than you'd be spending probably 5 grand or more to gain 10-30 horsepower, depending on which RSX motor you use. Not exactly a very economical solution for a car that's supposedly just a daily driver. You say that your experience with the Prelude is making you appreciate how well your RSX drives and handles, well keep in mind that just swapping to a different motor isnt going to make your Prelude handle like the car you swapped the motor from. I'd say just keep the H22 and do some maintenence on it, or replace it with another H22 if you must have a lower mileage motor. If you use your existing transmission you could probably pick up an H22 for a around $1000-$1500.

01-20-2006, 01:09 PM	#6
driverunknown Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Age: 26 Posts: 1,482 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: Boosted B16 in ej1 Rep Power: 27	Any good alignment shop will look at your car and tell you what is wrong with the suspension and what needs to be replaced. Start there.

01-20-2006, 02:45 PM	#7
stickyfusion Member Join Date: Dec 2005 Posts: 110 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 10	methinks u need to learn ALOT more about cars [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/dry.gif[/img] read as much as you possibly can on this site and ask smart questions... good luck

01-21-2006, 12:03 AM	#9
94accordex Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Posts: 100 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 18	<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>Anyways, That was a nice um what do you call it, um something that mom or dad would have said when I was about 16 getting my first car, uh hum I'm 32 I should be able to do what I want now dad...[/b][/quote] Uhhh...ok...thanks for being an asshole you retard. You said in your original post that this car is your daily driver/spare vehicle and that the suspension is in really bad shape and the car feels very unstable at high speeds. Given that information, the response I gave you was a perfectly good answer to your question! You can't ask one thing and expect us to know that you really are asking about something else! If you wanted information on how to build your Prelude into a serious performance car than you should have said so instead of beating around the bush about how you want to do some maintenance on your crapped-out daily driver! And sorry for the fucking lecture, but I'd rather not have you smashing into me or anyone else on the freeway when you're pushing 100+ mph and your crappy suspension and brakes give out! And you're 32 years fucking years old? I'd expect some dumbass shit like that from a 17 year-old jerk-off kid, but seriously...at 32?!? You should fucking know better! If you plan on hanging out here you should know that you're going to get flamed a lot for posting crap like "yeah I was doing 120 on the freeway yesterday and I raced this Eclipse and kicked his ass yo!" The general consensus around here is that street-racing is stupid and dangerous...if you think your car has some balls then take it to the track and get a time slip; don't go fucking with people's lives just to get your rocks off! I think it's official at this point: [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/yourafucktard.gif[/img] And from what you've written so far it seems like you don't know much about cars and you don't know much about common sense either! Most newer cars are going to be wobbly and hard to control at speeds exceeding 100, so what the hell did you expect from a 13-year old car that's been beat on for most of it's life?!? If you can't figure out why your crapped out 93 Prelude is wobbling and feels out of control when you hit 100, then you're just plain stupid...I wouldn't dare drive my 94 Accord that fast on a public road, not even after a brake job and a realignment! If you want a car that handles well at 100+ mph than start saving for a fucking Ferrari or something... WITH ALL THAT SAID AND OUT OF THE WAY... As the other people told you, you can improve the car's handling by working on the suspension. New shocks would be a good idea, and some aftermarket lowering springs would both improve your car's appearence and help with cornering abilities. Replacing the bushings in your suspension system may help firm up the ride a bit; polyurethane bushings would be an even better choice. Polyurethane motor mounts are available as well and might also help you attain a smoother ride. Adding strut braces and sway bars can also help improve your car's responsiveness and cornering abilities; new tires should also be on your list if they are needed. I'd also have the brakes checked out, and replace pads/rotors or have the rotors resurfaced if necessary. You can go aftermarket for rotors if you wish, although there is some debate as to whether slotted and drilled type aftermarket rotors are any better or safer than a regular rotor. I'd say for now just make sure the brakes are in good working order. As far as the question of your motor I'm sticking to what I said before...at this point an H22 is still probably the best option for your car. If you are concerned about the condition of your current motor, do some general tune up to get started. Check your plugs, wires, air filter, make sure you are up to date on oil changes. If you still think something may be wrong with it, then take it somewhere and have it tested; leakdown and compression tests as Tab mentioned, and if your CEL is on, any decent shop should be able to run diagnostics and assess any problems you may have. The H22 has potential both as a naturally-aspirated beast or as a boost motor, although the compression on the motor is fairly high so if you want to boost you need to keep the PSI fairly low or you need to open up the motor and do some internal work. Do some research on the site and you should be able to get a better idea of what direction you want to go with your car.

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