91 civic hb plus a h22
- Thread starter Da Hatch
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engineswap
New Member
well heres on of the guys that used to live in my town(watertown,SD...and moved to sioux falls,SD. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2137525 over 1000hp in a 92 civic.check him out and leave a message he'll prolly have some info on the wiring
Andrew
Active Member
Explicit Speed Performance
He has everything you need to know, and buy, to install the H series in your car.
EXCELLENT site.
He has everything you need to know, and buy, to install the H series in your car.
EXCELLENT site.
Andrew
Active Member
Your welcome.
Since you already have the h22, I would suggest going for it. Thats $1,000-1,500 less than you would normally have to spend!
I think H series is the route I'll be taking on my next project.(for a drag/track car.).
However a good point to keep in mind is the condition of your roads.
As you'll see/read in Explicit's site, the H series sit about 3 1/2" off the ground, and thats depending on your cars ride height already!
Just an important thing to keep in mind- thats why I'd only go H if it was a track only car.
Since you already have the h22, I would suggest going for it. Thats $1,000-1,500 less than you would normally have to spend!
I think H series is the route I'll be taking on my next project.(for a drag/track car.).
However a good point to keep in mind is the condition of your roads.
As you'll see/read in Explicit's site, the H series sit about 3 1/2" off the ground, and thats depending on your cars ride height already!
Just an important thing to keep in mind- thats why I'd only go H if it was a track only car.
I am going to drive it every day plusi want to take it to track on weekends my car is not lowered right now at all i was waiting to do the swap to lower it.also how much do u think every thing is going to cost to do this swap i want to try to get it done before Nov 4. also is my motor going to be a problem since it is a 97 type s obd2 i think. or will every thign be ok just have to but harness. i been looking at mounts at explicitspeedperformance.net.any other sites.
Andrew
Active Member
Hmm.. You know, I'm sorry to say I don't know exactly all the info on swapping an H22 into our cars.
I'm pretty sure however that it's not really the best swap for a first-timer(to swaps).
If you need it done that soon, I would advise against it.
If you'd wanna go b16, I think it will be a little more straight forward, hence a little easier.
It's a good thing you mentioned it being obd-2. I seemed to have missed that. It's fairly simple to run obd-1 in our cars- you just run an obd-1 ecu and harness adapter(like from boomslang that already integrates the knock, iab, vtec, and o2 wires), and use your harness, so it's relativly simple to do.
Running obd-2 however is not such an easy task. I think you would have to run it obd-1, which would require different injectors, alternator, and a different distributor(you'll need distributor wire adapters, like the one in my sig).
If none of that makes sense.. maybe this'll help.
H22 swap will require:
* obd1- injectors, distributor, alternator.
(perhaps a little modification is needed for obd1 injectors with the wiring harness you choose to run. you see, obd1 injectors dont use the injector resister box our cars do.)
* ECU for specific motor.
* ECU conversion harness (for the obd-0 to obd-1 conversion)
* Mounts for H22 into EF. Explicit carries them. His offer the best mounting location for the motor, and decreases axle stress.
* Shift Linkage. His site goes into details on this.
* Custom Axles. unless you wanna pay up the butt for Name-brand axles. Once again his site discusses what to use.
So pretty much it will NOT be finished in a matter of a couple weeks. Not by a first timer, unless you had a bunch of cash to throw out to cover the costs upfront.
B16 swap will need the following:
*ECU. PR3 or PW0. will require wiring in 8 wires. 2 for vtec, 1 for knock, 1 for IAB, 4 for your second o2 sensor.
*axles. 90-93 teg.
*shift linkage. home made or bought online.
*mount kit. bought online..................................> type in "b16 crx" into Ebay's search. you'll find EVERYTHING.
And thats about it.
The b16 is SUPER easy to swap into your car- IF you have everything ready. I don't see why you couldn't have it running by November.
The h22 is a little more difficult, but will yield more power, stock. (you'd probably be knocking on 13's door with good traction)
Hope my boredom-feeling-like-typing helps.
I'm pretty sure however that it's not really the best swap for a first-timer(to swaps).
If you need it done that soon, I would advise against it.
If you'd wanna go b16, I think it will be a little more straight forward, hence a little easier.
It's a good thing you mentioned it being obd-2. I seemed to have missed that. It's fairly simple to run obd-1 in our cars- you just run an obd-1 ecu and harness adapter(like from boomslang that already integrates the knock, iab, vtec, and o2 wires), and use your harness, so it's relativly simple to do.
Running obd-2 however is not such an easy task. I think you would have to run it obd-1, which would require different injectors, alternator, and a different distributor(you'll need distributor wire adapters, like the one in my sig).
If none of that makes sense.. maybe this'll help.
H22 swap will require:
* obd1- injectors, distributor, alternator.
(perhaps a little modification is needed for obd1 injectors with the wiring harness you choose to run. you see, obd1 injectors dont use the injector resister box our cars do.)
* ECU for specific motor.
* ECU conversion harness (for the obd-0 to obd-1 conversion)
* Mounts for H22 into EF. Explicit carries them. His offer the best mounting location for the motor, and decreases axle stress.
* Shift Linkage. His site goes into details on this.
* Custom Axles. unless you wanna pay up the butt for Name-brand axles. Once again his site discusses what to use.
So pretty much it will NOT be finished in a matter of a couple weeks. Not by a first timer, unless you had a bunch of cash to throw out to cover the costs upfront.
B16 swap will need the following:
*ECU. PR3 or PW0. will require wiring in 8 wires. 2 for vtec, 1 for knock, 1 for IAB, 4 for your second o2 sensor.
*axles. 90-93 teg.
*shift linkage. home made or bought online.
*mount kit. bought online..................................> type in "b16 crx" into Ebay's search. you'll find EVERYTHING.
And thats about it.
The b16 is SUPER easy to swap into your car- IF you have everything ready. I don't see why you couldn't have it running by November.
The h22 is a little more difficult, but will yield more power, stock. (you'd probably be knocking on 13's door with good traction)
Hope my boredom-feeling-like-typing helps.
lol sorry it wasnt for nothing. i need all the info i can get plus more. thanks so much what all can u tell me about b16a swap in to my car.i found a engine with ecu buthaves no trans for 900. what u think it was my friends old motor he took out before he sold it. Thanks for all the info Andrew.
I know that Hasport made the cable to hydro conversion kit but i heard that they stopped selling it to redesign it since they were having alot of issues with it.
Andrew
Active Member
I was just kiddin.. thats what this site is for!
I pretty much sumed it up completely in my previous comment, except I left out that you have to simply dint the drivers side fender well, just a little bit, for Alternator clearance.
I believe HMotorsOnline carries b16 longblocks(complete motor w/o trans) for around $750. Keep in mind, however, that shipping will probably make it more like $900, but, HMO is a very reputable company, and their motors have low mileage and a startup warranty...
If it was your friends, did you hear it run? How many miles are on it? Like I just said, HMO's motors have low mileage(they claim 35-55k), so you MAY be better off going with them.