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A Honda & Acura Forum and technical discussion board. Topics include hybrid and swap information, turbo installation, tuning, ecu chipping, jdm parts and accessories, suspension setups and much more. Join us at HondaSwap.com
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#1 |
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Junior Member
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i want to do this swap not now with my tax return but i want to buy all the small parts first........can anyone give a general idea of what is exactly needed....
i will put aftermarket products but i want to stay N/A....no turbos/NOS/supercharger...................i would love a sir engine and work on going jdm with my ride.......thats my gig...if possible any serious tuners in here give me a good setup on what to do as far replacing internals???.......not trying to steal any ideas just a help knowledge so i dont look dumb taking my car to a shop to the swap and get burned.............i have a knowledge on just basics mechanical stuff not as far as having to rebuild or replace the internals go....would i need to??....i got more ?'s not just what is written.. but first things first.... i am semi-conservative....................... ........ |
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#3 | ||
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Blah blah blah....
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Central Coast, CALI
Age: 28
Posts: 3,655
iTrader: 0 / 0%
Rep Power: 49
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As for being conservative, and not knowing how to do anything to your car as of yet, that pretty much limits you to changing oil and putting on simple boltons. You shouldn't even think about replacing internals, unless you have done some work on cars in the past, or have someone available to help you out. Pick up a couple of honda tuning magazines, a helms manual for your car, heck even a chiltons for someone with your level of experience, and just study about what makes an engine put down more power; the actual concepts, not just the brand names of parts you think look good, etc. The internals of an engine all work together as a unit, and so they cannot be treated as separate parts. Also please be more specific as to what you actually want to do with your car, as there is no one good setup that will be awesome for everything. If you are just trying to not look like a dumbass when you take the car to the shop, maybe try to get a job working there if you are that serious about cars. __________________
-1991 Integra, lots of goodies in an otherwise stock looking motorp; ITR front brakes. -Xenocron programmable ecu w/datalogging port, LM-1 wideband, and Moates Ostrich are tuning tools of choice. RIP 2005 Red Yamaha R6 www.m24x.com - Rocket Motorsports: For more technical engine discussions... Quote:
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#4 | |||
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Junior Member
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#5 | |
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Junior Member
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i was pretty much specific i wanted a Naturally Aspirated car....i want to go total jdm with it..........down to the cig lighter.....but thanks for voicing your opinions. |
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#6 |
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Junior Member
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I'll give you my 2 cents on it.
If its a motor out of a yard it needs a rebuild. Rings, pistons, ect ect. If you got tons of money you can upgrade then. From what I understand (I've never done the swap) You need the motor, cable tranny, wiring harness obd0 to obd1 if its a obd1 motor, axles, shift linkage and I'm sure I'm missing things. www.hasport.com is a good place to go for b series engine swaps. As for the internals go to ebay or simply do a yahoo search. You'll find it out there. I did :P |
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#7 | ||
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Blah blah blah....
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Central Coast, CALI
Age: 28
Posts: 3,655
iTrader: 0 / 0%
Rep Power: 49
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Okay, you asked a really vague question in your first post, and I would just like to advise you that in order for anyone to help you out, which many of us are, you just need to ask more pointed question. For a rebuild, the most basic things you will want to replace are the timing belt, timing belt tensioner(get one or elseyou might regret it like I did), water pump, and a new gasket set, which should include front and rear main seals, a head gasket, intake and exhaust manifold gaskets, and valve cover and oil pan gaskets. Obviously a new clutch will be in order, and a good set of halfshafts(axles as some people call them). Flush the tranny and use honda mtf since you are already rebuilding the engine. An actual rebuild would require getting the block honed and getting new main and rod bearings, as well as new piston rings, but generally if an engine has been leak down tested and compression tested, you shouldn't have to replace anything, it is just good insurance against an premature failure.
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__________________
-1991 Integra, lots of goodies in an otherwise stock looking motorp; ITR front brakes. -Xenocron programmable ecu w/datalogging port, LM-1 wideband, and Moates Ostrich are tuning tools of choice. RIP 2005 Red Yamaha R6 www.m24x.com - Rocket Motorsports: For more technical engine discussions... Quote:
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#8 |
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Junior Member
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I heard if you buy a swap from a junkyard or internet site ,always replace your clutch,front and rear seals,also if your lookin on some websites for like a type-r,gsr or something in that nature,also check to see if they do a leakdown and compression check before buying.
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#10 |
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Member
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I would agree with all of the above, although you can get away with not replacing some of the parts, although it's much easier to replace them with the motor out of the car. The BARE MINIMUM I would do is clutch, timing belt, timing tensioner, and water pump. Everything else will just guarantee that you don't have to mess with it in the car.
As far as not getting screwed, that's a different issue. There are a billion and a half shops out there that will take you for everything you've got. Lemme give you a little perspective. I run a teeny tiny shop out of my garage, mostly just swaps and bolt on stuff/turbo kits. I don't really have the facilities to do many full-engine builds. For a complete 1st gen B16A installed in a 4th generation civic or crx, I charge $3000 flat. That includes mounts, linkage, engine, trans, ecu, axles, harness, timing belt, plugs/wires, dist cap/rotor, clutch, water pump, wiring, install, and fluids. If a customer wants to replace the other stuff like front/main seals, oil pan gasket, etc., it's extra. A huge part of this is that I have a VERY good importer that I have a good relationship with. The owner goes to Japan every couple of weeks, drives all the cars before they get clipped, then takes them to his facility here and does a compression and leakdown test with them, cleans them a little, and gives me a 90 day warranty on the engine. If you're buying a motor that has no warranty and no testing and is sold as-is, you're asking for it. I would expect that a larger shop with more overhead than I have would ask for a bit more money for the swap (like $3500 or so), but should offer you at least what I offer, and should be able to turn it back to you in like 3-5 days. It's also important to ask what brands of things are going in the car. If you're getting off-brand, ebay mounts, you better not be paying $500 for the set. If you're getting a chopped integra linkage, you better not be paying $250 for it. You should educate yourself on what is out there and decide on what level of performance and quality you need. I would contend that not everyone needs HASport mounts, since there are plenty that will never break under the power of a mostly stock B-series engine. If you have more questions, feel free to email me at josh@wiredspeed.com, and I'd be happy to answer them. Good luck! __________________
1990 CRX DX Currently: D16Z6 w/ ZC LSD trans, basic mods Wanna buy a project CRX? Email me... Mail: josh@wiredspeed.com AIM: wiredspeedjosh |
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